Ladies and Gents,

I picked up a ’99 FRC with a built shortblock, patriot heads, G5x3 cam, with a Textrailia clutch and I’m having some issues.

So, here’s what I can say about the symptoms (what I remember from the little I’ve driven it).

1. There is a distinct ‘grinding’ when taking off from a stop. Not to be confused with ‘chatter.’ Whole different noise/issue. There’s also a pronounced, albeit slight, grinding when driving down the road. The noise follows the RPMs as well.
1a. This noise tends to get more pronounced as the car is driven. I assume once the heat builds in the drivetrain, the tolerances become tighter and cause more issues.

2. There’s no possibility of ‘speed shifting’ whatsoever. I must wait at least 1 full second before hitting the next gear.

3. With the car ‘in gear,’ clutch disengaged (clutch pedal on floor): if the engine is revved (quick rev to 3500 then back down), there is a distinct vibration and what sound (and quite frankly FEELS) like metal on metal contact at around 3200-3500 (top of the rev). I’ve only done this twice and didn’t care to verify it happens all the time. Sounds bad, feels bad… something isn’t kosher.

4. With the car ‘out of gear, in neutral’ clutch engaged (clutch out): if the engine is revved, it feels pretty smooth. Seems relatively normal.

3b. update - 1911hrs - 9-30-08:
went for a quick drive up the road. With the car OUT of gear, clutch IN or OUT, it's smooth as butter, no crazy vibrations. With the car IN first gear, not only did I feel a vibration, I heard and FELT the grinding noise as well as FELT the car pick up a bit of speed. Needless to say, something is grinding and actually caused the car to slightly accellerate. Again, this is with the clutch OUT.



All noises/feelings sound like their coming from the clutch region, but noise tends to throw itself from time to time. Regardless, there is no noise coming from the trans and the motor seems to run well. If it was a bearing in the motor causing any issues, I’m sure it would have tore itself apart by now. So,


To me, this is a clutch, pilot bushing, and/or throw-out bearing issue.

I’d like to get this tore apart ASAP, but I’d like to know if anyone needs any more information to help properly diagnose the issue while the car is still running/drivable.

 

I think its the throw out bearing personally, Ive seen this with mustangs before.

 

Agree however it's a pilot bearing.. and probably t/o bearing as well. Either way, still gotta come apart and you're still gonna replace them both.

 

Good point... I seem to do that from time to time (revert back to the old-style bushing verses bearing.


Does everyone use new OEM pilot and throw-out bearings or is there a better option?

 

Torque tube bushings might also be suspect.

 

I plan on using this thread as a basis for what I need to fix/etc when it's all apart. If it's coming apart to address the T/O bearing, pilot bearing, etc... I might as well address what I can when it's apart.

 

If it is the T/O or Pilot can someone give suggestions as to what to replace them with? I am going through the same thing. From a stop in first gear i am getting a grinding sound that sounds like a muffled kazoo. I can feel it through my shifter. All other gears seem pretty good. I also get that violent shaking of the whole car in first when i try to get started in first gear. It seems like it is one or the other. Any suggestions guys ?

 

TTT for more opinions/etc

 

what about flywheel bolts?
I thing some of the upgraded hardware can interfere with the springs on the clutch disc. The bolts have taller heads than stock flywheel bolts.
use stock bolts on the flywheel.

 

what bolts are we talking about? The bolts that hold the PP to the flywheel or the bolts that hold the flywheel on?

 

I would say plan on doing the following:
Replace both Torque tube bushings
Replace Pilot Bushing-seems the bushing appears to be better for many
Replace Throw out bearing
Check the clutch and pressure plate-could be warped clutch disc or bent fubard pressure plate aswell


I would say do a couple different things next time out with the car. Drive up to say 30mph and push in the clutch, put the car in neutral and see what the car does and where you hear the noise from. Then try putting in different gears to see if it changes pitch etc. Also while the car is in neutral try with the clutch depressed and out and see what happens putting into gear and not letting the clutch out and push in to see what changes. Then lets take the car on a safe enclosed track Take the car to say 100mph and do some of the same things VERY CAREFULLY. At 100mph is usually when most cars will be getting a fair amount of deflection in the torque tube/driveshaft. This could change alot of things. If you feel the car is not safe to do so just go with above and call it a day. Theres a few course open at the wee hours of the morning usually Keep us posted!!!

 

update - 1911hrs - 9-30-08:
went for a quick drive up the road. With the car OUT of gear, clutch IN or OUT, it's smooth as butter, no crazy vibrations. With the car IN first gear, not only did I feel a vibration, I heard and FELT the grinding noise as well as FELT the car pick up a bit of speed. Needless to say, something is grinding and actually caused the car to slightly accellerate. Again, this is with the clutch OUT.




it's headed up on jack-stands ASAP. Something isn't kosher, but I'm not certain exactly WHAT it is... yet.

 

Tranny or torque tube ?

Problems have been reported by guys using ARP flywheel bolts instead of factory flywheel bolts.

 

we can sit here and diagnose it all night....but bottom line is....it needs to be yanked and checked.

Granted, a TEX is a performance clutch, so dont expect it to be a smooth daily driver granny clutch. it makes some noise off a stop because its so grabby.

Sounds like the pilot to me, but to replace that 10$ piece, you need to take it all apart, so do that, then just inspect the slave (buy a new one) and pilot(buy a new one)...for 110 bucks, its good to replace it after the many hours of work time.

And inspect the clutch for odd wear.

 

Understood regarding the bolts. However, I'm confused by the Tranny or torque tube ? question/comment.

It's already on the way out as of 2 hours ago . I just want to know what I'm looking for.

Regardless of what I find, they'll be a new Slave and pilot going in, that's not an option. Probably do a remote bleeder while it's out.

Also, I have a SPEC stage 3 in the Supra and had a MC Street Twin in the '94 Formula (T76'd). So, I'm ok with a harsh-ish engagement.

 

make sure you have a puller for the pilot, its a real bitch to get out..see if all the neddle bearings are still in it, if not, thats probably the problem....Ive had guys fight with all sorts of issues, thinking their whoel tranny or diff is junk, but turned out to be a pilot bearing....also make sure you put it in the right way

 

I believe there is a chamfer on the pilot bearing on the side that is supposed to be towards the trans, is there not? Going from memory of what I've seen online...

Hopefully I can get a good pilot bearing puller from one of the local parts places (rent or borrow one, hopefully.)

 

ya, local parts store usually has, if you have Advance Auto, or Auto Zones in your area.

I believe the Chamfer (smooth side) goes towards the tranny, yes....and the flat side goes inside....but dont quote me on that...im 95% sure

even with a 3 foot puller, Ive beat on it for 30 minutes before....so you may be in for a workout

 

Well, that's just spectacular! I've put on a little weight in the last couple years. I could use a good workout...

I'll see what I can find for a good puller. It's coming out one way or the other...

 

I have an awesome pilot bearing puller at home. Takes less than "5" minutes to get it out.

I'll get info on it when I get home on Friday.

I mentioned the tranny and torque tube because you said you felt vibrations with clutch engaged and no vibrations when the clutch was disengaged.

I would check everything over very carefully since you have it apart and no one likes doing the job twice.