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Ive ready countless posts about the best fluid to put in a 97 M6 with paper blockers. Im leaning towards royal purple. You guys have me worried something could go wrong with certain brands of fluid. What is everyone using if you have a borg warner trans?
Ive ready countless posts about the best fluid to put in a 97 M6 with paper blockers. Im leaning towards royal purple. You guys have me worried something could go wrong with certain brands of fluid. What is everyone using if you have a borg warner trans?
I always giggle at all the debate concerning fluids. Unless you have a full boogie race car, Dextron(what your manual calls for) will work just fine. It's even more laughable when the guys doing the debating have left the factory Dextron fluid in their transmissions for 10 years, and now they are suddenly concerned with upgrading the fluid to preserve the tranny.
Unless you are pushing your car to the limit on a regular basis, or participating in auto-x events, Dextron is a no brainer.
Put regular dexron fluid back in. All that synchro mesh stuff is snake oil and a bandaid at that. I have a fully built trans with the works and I use the regular cheap dexron 3 fluid. I went through allot with the rebuilding of my trans, For what its worth there is nothing different about borg warner or tremec transmisisons. I have a borg warner. The only thing of discussion is the older style blocker rings When they do go out, and they will eventually You can get carbon fiber blockers like I have, They dont even sell paper blocker rings in the rebuild kits anymore..
whats the prefered brand of dexron? GM? Ive just seen all the debates about what works and what doesnt with the paper blockers. It blows my mind how many threads Ive read about this subject.
whats the prefered brand of dexron? GM? Ive just seen all the debates about what works and what doesnt with the paper blockers. It blows my mind how many threads Ive read about this subject.
The discussion over the blocker rings applies to synthetic fluid...Dextron III in not synthetic. Bro, ignore all the crap on the forum, use the fluid recommended in your manual, and call it a day. You will not ruin your transmission using what GM recommends....
I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic at 50,000 miles in my 1998. At about 100,000 miles my MN6 started grinding going into 6th gear. I changed to Amsoil ATD and it stopped grinding imediately ! Now at 118,000 miles, all is still fine.
My 98 started having GRINDING issues going into 3rd at 55K miles so,,,,I changed my fluid to Mobil 1 synthetic. MAN the difference in shifting was remarkable!!!!!! I had the improved fluid in the car for 20k+ Miles with ZERO issues. Knowing what I know now,, I would use AMS OIL. It is suppose to be compatible with the early C5 tyranny's.
I'm a big believer and I've found that synthetics are far superior than 'mother nature's' dino fluids. The use of synthetics ensures a higher tolerance to oxidation caused by pressure and heat which in turn robs lubrification.
Also a big supporter of Red Line oil products for several reasons since their inception. But I digress; We use Amsoil synthetic ATF in the wife's 2000 FRC ( with 25,000 miles). She comments on how much smoother the shifting is over the Dexron3. In my 2001 Z06 I use Red Line's D4 synthetic ATF (27,000 miles) with satisfaction.
Last edited by dieseldave56; Nov 17, 2008 at 03:58 AM.
The use of synthetics ensures a higher tolerance to oxidation caused by pressure and heat which in turn robs lubrification.
Just the nature of combustion, and the byproducts of combustion(coupled with increased pressure in the engine based on demand), accelerate oxidation.
Since this thread is discussing transmission fluid, how does the rate of oxidation of transmission fluid compare with engine oil? Feel free to be as technical as necessary...
From: cruising between USA and Canada... SAVE THE WAVE!
Originally Posted by lucky131969
Just the nature of combustion, and the byproducts of combustion(coupled with increased pressure in the engine based on demand), accelerate oxidation.
Since this thread is discussing transmission fluid, how does the rate of oxidation of transmission fluid compare with engine oil? Feel free to be as technical as necessary...
Thanks...
He was already technical... it's the lubrification...don't you get it?
Clear, we had some fun with this a week or two ago, when I drained GM syncromesh and put in Pennzoil Dexron III, and the shifting improved mega-much.
Do a quick search for threads by "The Wrench" and read the thread; Lucky13 commented a couple of times also.
Mine is really shifting great on the Pennzoil, and after our discussion, I decided to leave it just as is. Maybe M1 is fine, but I decided to not lose sleep over it, and nix'd it from my list. I also discovered that Amsoil and Redline recommend their ATF, but RP recommends their syncromesh type????
So, it seems, from my small investigstion, that if regular old Dexron III is not preferred, the hi-end lines to consider are Redline and Amsoil DexronIII-compatible ATF.
Just my opinion, based on a lot of reading herein.
yeah, I'm guilty of that too when I get in a hurry......
I assume that you understand now what I mean by oxidation, in that it is the killer of lubricity or in other words the lubriciousness of the fluid used.