Yes...I said passenger vehicles and you didn't state very hard driving and very hot climates.

Hey if it lubes the motor like water then I get the best possible power. As long as it PROTECTS the moter then it's fine.

For EXTREME driving conditions (ie racing) Amsoil does offer a Series 2000 20W-50 racing oil.

Again....98% of us on The Forum will probably do just fine with a 5W-30 or 0W-30 oil.

 

TAL,

In this point you are definetely not right at all. With the engine cold, the 10W-40 weight starts also as an 10W-weight as just an other eg 10W-30 weight.

ONLY, if the temp is rising pretty much higher, saying beyond some 230°F-plus, and believe me, it really does when you imagine any enthusiastic speedy run through our nicely winding alpine roads here around. Then it pays off - your engine really profits of the slightly thicker viscosity-weight of the -40 by some thicker oil film-strength within the bearings and other major critical engine spots, eg close to the end of the cylinders ignition stroke.

Again, GM recommends officially a 10W-40 (pls check the SVC manual) for heavier loads and typically higher Oil temps (you might not provoke them during comfortable easy cruising on the highways with some 65mph).

Further, except you live in a region where ambient temps do not drop regularily to -22°F, you may NOT have necessity of a 5W-30 weight. 0W-30 is certainly too low viscosity and carries much too much viscosity enhancers, a fact which may lead also to premature oil degradation/breakdown.

5W- and 0W- , on the other hand, may better follow environmental requirements and mpg issues (the reason why GM recommends always the 5W-30). This is what I found officially in my database from GM.

Joe.


[Modified by SwissVette_Joe, 10:30 PM 1/25/2002]

 

Joe;

A 10W-30 oil is thinner than a 10W40 oil. True; at starup they are the same but when heated up they act as a 30W and 40W oil respectively.

A 30W oil will provide better protection than the 40W oil in the LS1 and that's what it is DESIGNED for typical durability needs. I dont have a SVC manual but I'd like to check one out.

Amsoil's 0W-30 can actually take the 230 plus temps. That's the great thing about this oil. If there is even higher temps then the Series 2000 20W-50 oil will provide that protection.

The main thing that I'm getting at here is that MOST of us are not going to see your extreme temps. And even if they do for short periods of time the Mobile 1 will perform.

Viscosity enhancers for 0W-30? Maybe for other oils but Amsoil is forumlated with a superior base stock so that it doesn't have to rely on all these viscosity enhancers.

True....the auto companies want you to use 5W or 0W for the emissions when starting up. And actually Ford and Honda are now specifing a 0W-20 oil. I will agree with you on this. This may not provide the required protection for the vehicle since is all they are concerned with is EPA mileage and emissions. CAFE loves this, too.

Since most engine wear occurs at startup a superior 0W-30 oil such as Amsoil is an excellent choice.

Simply put you get the best of both worlds: Excellent cold start ability with virtually no wear and high temperature protection.

 

Thanks TAL you are coming back.

As for GM-clearance: synthetic 20W-50 is neither cleared nor foreseen even for racing, believe me (again, pls check a SVC Manual). RED LINE does not use an ordinary hydrocarbon base stock as eg Mobil1 or others, but uses a enhanced and expensive polyol-esther base stock (100% synthetic) which is largely superior to the former one mentioned.

This R-L basestock is capable to resist even to the tremendous temps within Aviation Jet Engines "hot-section"; this was confirmed to me by a friend of mine (aviation engine maintenance engineer, working with JET AVIATION in the US).

Those R-L products give me the required peace of mind when driving under heavy load here around and recording nice high fluids temps, mainly the engine Oil. Remind, we unfortunately have only 6.5 to 7 qts heartblood in our engines, so this is just an other reason to go to the very edge in product selection. As for the price for the Oil, in my mind nothing is too expensive to not have it in this valued Car.

And I do not want to engage a "religious war", but this is just an other very interesting thread to exchange opinions - just opinions. I wish you to be convinced and satisfied with your findings and solutions as I do with mine.

Live is short, enjoy your ride - and keep engine temps as low as possible!:cheers: :cheers:

Joe.

 

Amsoil and Redline use the same polyol-esther base stock. Amsoil is both API certified and meets GM 4718M, Redline is not and does not. Why, they have not tested it. Does that mean they wouldn't mee the requirements, your guess is as good as mine, but I will take a proven oil thank you. Please review the API license list, Redline is not licensed. I think Redline is a good product, but needs to be tested for me to use it in my Vette.

PS: I don't hate or bash Redline, I am using their tranny fluid in four other cars. I refuse to in my Vette because of warranty issues.

 

I've been following all the threads on Amsoil vs Redline vs Mobil 1 with great interest. I've decided to go with Amsoil when time comes for an oil change. I also want to change out the tranny and diff fluid and replace with Amsoil fluids. Which ones am I looking for to put into my Z06? Let the debate rage on!!!!! Thanks. :D

 

I've messed around with Amsoil octane booster and Red Line Watter Wetter the WW cools the fluids by 8-20 degrees impressive on 115 degree AZ.days.
On the Amsoil octane booster ive been able to bring my boost up with0 detonation900 rpm uphill 6th gear floored 0 ping at 9 lbs boost.Before Amsoil 2.5 less Lbs. bost slight pinging at 1500 rpm uphill 6th gear pedal to the metal.I would guess a 12 oz. bottle added to 18 gallons will give you 4-6 octane pts.closer to 4 but for $8.00 still amazing boosting 18 gallons from 91 octane to 95+.

I run an LPE C5r 427 adjustable boost from 2-14 Lbs over 11lbs its racing fuel,I work for XTREME and Nate builds 9:1 super charged motors so we will order bp (104) could be 100 octane to much you can loose HP to little KA-BOOM.The beaty of his tunnning wont require the octane of the TT.
In 2-3 weeks I will run Amsoil front to RR. with 0w-30 engine oil.Im looking foward to the change and I will run 3 gallons of 10w-30 to flush it tilt it 4-5 degrees foward and drain 20 minute then finish it up with a Mobil-1 oil filter and drain and fill the gear box and diff. I will Dyno before and 200 miles latter.
Who knows we may find some power increase I will keep you posted and I will start at 2lbs and go in 2lb. increments to 13-14 Lbs.Y.T David Smilovic.
PS if Dyno is real busy Ill do 5-9-and 13 lbs we'll see what story the Dyno Tells.Dave

 

I went with Amsoil 5W-30 in the motor, Series 2000 75-90 in the rear (already has additive, no chatter detected during figure 9 test in my car) and ATF in the MN6. MN6 seems to shift smooter then prior to the change.

As far as the 0W-30 and the arguments it's too thin, check the 100 degree C viscosity numbers for Amsoil 0W-30, it it better then any Mobil-1 and on par with Redline 5W-30 & 10W-30. Again, Redline and Amsoil have a different base then other synthetics, the difference is meeting the various specifications and standards. I believe this to be important, especially when under warranty.

 

Synthetic motor oil--SERIES 2000 - SAE 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil

Gear lube--Series 2000 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube

Transmission fluid--Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid

As was mentioned earlier the Series 2000 gear lube does not require the limited slip additive. I have it in mine and it is quiet.

Although the Series 2000 0W-30 oil does not exactly pertain to the factor specs of a 5W-30 it still falls within the viscosity range.

You see, a 0W-30 INCLUDES the 5W-30 range. 0 THRU 30. That includes a 5W oil.

Now going by the factor specs a 10W-30 oil is NOT within the range because it does not include the 5W range. 10 thru 30. Get it?

That's why a 0W-30 oil is perfectly acceptable to use in this application.

 

Ditto that . 10W40 here as well :cheers:

Roger

 

Okay guys.i need some help from you all.i have a supercharged c6 pushing 800 to the wheels currently.i had the car about a week...feeling it out and driving it hard.well....I ended up spinning a bearing.so I'm getting a engine rebuild as I type.been doin some research as far as which oil to go with to prevent this from happening.if I can remember I was around 220 degrees oil temp when the bearing spun.i been thinking of 20w50 series 2000.opinions please!

 

Bump

 

I've been using amsoil zrod 10w30 for a few years now. Its very similar to the dominator racing oil but with detergents for a a 3000 change interval. Not certified by any standards. Not cheap, seems to be working great. Member c66racing (sub driver) is very knowledge able on the amsoil products

 

Use amsoil in everything from my atv to my 04 Duramax frt to rear own 10 licensed vehicles, was a auto tech for 20 years, all of the true synthetic oils are good some better than others, which ever one you choose you are buying a quality product, just be sure it is a pure synthetic.
Left pedal GO!
Right pedal WOA!

 

[QUOTE="Clyde2;1585863811"]Use amsoil in everything from my atv to my 04 Duramax frt to rear own 10 licensed vehicles, was a auto tech for 20 years, all of the true synthetic oils are good some better than others, which ever one you choose you are buying a quality product, just be sure it is a pure synthetic. Right pedal GO left pedal WOA

 

I am running the Z-Rod oil as well. I don't recall the need to change at 3K miles, although in all honesty my gets changed due to annual requiirements rather than mileage. Last change was at 1800 miles.

 

This thread is OLD! lol I have switched out each and every fluid in my car with Amsoil minus the brake and clutch fluid. In my rear diff I didn't notice a difference, but at 90,000 miles at the time I went ahead and changed it while I was doing the transmission fluid. I put Torquedrive in my pre-01 M6 and shifting got soooo much more smooth and the transmission doesn't make a peep anymore, it used to be somewhat loud. I used to only put Mobil 1 in my car but got tired of it because at 3,000 it would be a quart low and realllly dark. I started using Amsoil Signature Series 5w30 with their Ae oil filter and I just changed the oil today at 10,000 miles At 10,000 miles my catch can was near empty, my dipstick still read full, and the oil was still really clean. Even though Signature Series has 25,000 mile intervals (under non-modified circumstances according to Amsoil), I wont be running oil again for 10,000 miles as it's not my style, but I've had great luck with it thus far.

 

ring/bearing protection > max power

a 20w oil will make more hp but is hell on rings and bearings compared to a 40w in our engines

redline 40w still flows better than petro 30w at freezing. guys who do track days often use 40w to maintain oil pressure with 300deg oil

 

Holy Cow! This thread is 12 years old!!!

I'd consider this as mentioned by several others above. Very similar to AMSOIL's Dominator Racing 10w30 I use in my 02 Z06 (stock bearings) at the track:
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)

My opinion is that unless your oil temps get really high (such as for tracking), a 30 grade oil is the right viscosity if you are using stock bearing clearances. What an oil like the Z-ROD 10w30 brings is a higher than normal 30 grade viscosity (it is near the top end of the 30 grade band, almost a low 40 grade), and a very high level of ZDDP (zinc and phosphorus) anti-wear additives. As mentioned above, it does have enough detergent/dispersant for about 3-5k mile oil change intervals (or one year whichever first), whereas I change the Dominator Racing oil at about 500 mile intervals.

More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.