Actually it is as its a dual action spring. It helps to hold down the pedal from those with weak left legs sitting at long stop lights and then once past the halfway point while releasing pedal in then assists in holding pedal in its full up position and holding it there while also giving a slight "little" bit of help bringing it up. I havnt seen a pedal that doesnt return to full up position without it though.

 

Correct me if im wrong,but in my experience with the adjustment,
in order for it to be properly adjusted,the slack in the pedal has nothing to do with having options in where you want the clutch to grab,lower to the floor or higher up.What ive noticed in my experience is,the clutch will grab approx half way through the pedal travel for proper adjustment,and ive also noticed that when im slammin gears at WOT I dont have to depress the pedal all the way to the floor to shift when im slam shifting,and thats one of the benefits of this tick master with the massive fluid flow compared to stock.I did mine last spring and have had NO issues and still able to slam gears at redline with NO issues of it going into each gear smoothly,and in combination with an MGW shifter makes it that much more precise! Im only commenting on my experience and conversations with Joey at Tick Performance whose a great guy to deal with! THE BEST $300 ive spent with a HUGE noticable difference! My only issue I had with the install was getting the drilled holes to line up with the allen head threads so they wouldnt cross thread.

 

I used Corvette Chris write up (I like pictures!) He did agreat job.
Thanks again Chris.
Just finished this job.
Had the seat out (changing to manual tracks), which made the Tick
change over alot easier. There is no way I could have done it
w/the seat in, period!!

I would also suggest getting/doing the following.
1.) Using a bench grider, & grind down , just a tad, the roundheads
of the two allen head bolts.
2) Use blue loc tite on the 2 bolts to Tick M/C unit.
3) Purchase Cool Tec 5/8"-1" thermo sleeve, & also made by Cool
Tec, 5/16 stainless Hi Temp tie wraps.
4)Auto zone 4 piece spring loaded ,disconnect tool. part# 25183
Around $20. You get 1/2",5/8",3/4"/& 7/8" (You will use the 5/8")
These are used to disconnect fittings on the A/C,fuel,fuel filter,
& fuel tank return lines.
5) Using your old/original round fire wall rubber boot. Measure the dia of the tick body. Cut the larger dia out of the boot. After heating the boot in a pan of boiling water & w/ the Tick allready installed, w/out the Q/disconnect installed yet & the resevoir cap allready installed,
stretch the boot ever the Tick unit & mount it in the original firewall position.

I'm installing a thicker tunnel plate (2 plates sandwitched together) &
Cool Tec thermal barrier attached to the plate.(Stiffer/cooler)
I still have the front wheels off the car, so I haven't tried out the new
clutch M/C.
I will be getting the car Dyno tuned in a few weeks & will be taking it to the 1/4 track next month. After that, I will report back on my opinion of the Tick unit.

 

Hi,

I had the Tick Master installed a few weeks ago with great success.
The only thing was my clutch pedal course was way too long to I reduced it using the adjustment feature. it is now perfect, a little bit lower than my brake pedal and it allows a quicker shifting.

The only problem I have is my cruise control nomore engage as the switch (upper left corner in the pic above) is not closed anymore when the clutch pedal is released.

I can't find the way to adjust the switch so it is closed when I let the clutch pedal in the now lowered released postion?

Thanks.

 

^^^ Very good question, and this better not get locked even though its past the 45 day rule, this could help many members.

 

You would need to adjust the white plastic pin/plunger that you see in the above picture.
Its the unit making contact to the square tab , designed into the
clutch pedal arm.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.

 

How do you adjust it? Mine doesn't seem to go very far.

 

The factory cruise control switch is adjustable, so if the clutch pedal is too short using our kit, you can adjust the factory switch out to make contact with the pedal once again.

That said, before you adjust the factory cruise control switch, you need to make sure that your pedal using our kit is where it *needs* to be rather than where you'd like it to be. The pedal height controls the amount of fluid the system flows, so if improperly adjusted you risk damaging your slave, clutch and maybe even transmission.

Instructions can be downloaded here: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-c5-corvette/

Adjustment is covered as a part of the install. Best of luck!

 

in the photo above you will see the "threads" at the back of the white switch (upper left corner). You just twist it either way to get it closer or further from the pedal...

There is a switch on the brake pedal that adjusts the same way and can also cause the cruise control to not work...

 

@Joey: I adjusted the pedal height so I have a good gear engagement but not too much range. When it came back from the garage, it worked just fine, but only 50% of the range of the pedal were "usefull". I could change gear by only pressing the pedal 50% This is why I reduced the range to halp. Is that correct?

@KCvetteowner: when I turn the "threaded" part, I cannot go very far, just a few milimeters. It seems something is blocked in the switch. I may need to take it out to have a close look.

 

If by range you mean travel, make sure you go back and readjust the kit using our instructions. Start with the pedal low so that you can't engage any gear, and adjust it out in small increments. Adjustment is covered in your instructions!

The factory cruise control switch has a wire plug-in on it that will impede it's adjustment - unplug that, adjust as necessary and plug it back in.

 

Exactly what I thought : I could not twist/turn it much because the wires are pluged on it and they restaint it.

Thank you for your help.

Ps : I'll have to spend some time on my head again next week end.