Tick Performance Adj. Master Cylinder (pics)
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
Tick Performance Adj. Master Cylinder (pics)
The guys at Tick Performance got it to me very fast so I popped it in tonight after work, and since the car is already on jack stands and torn down to the block, it was a little easier. The instructions were very good and Ill add what may help others out in the future.
The top is the Tick unit and the bottom is the stocker. You can see a nice different in the two.
Stock unit out
Getting ready to drill the 2 holes for the Tick unit.
The 3/8" holes drilled
The Tick unit is in. The blue Earl's fitting comes installed but I found it MUCH easier getting in its place once attached to the clutch assy. if you take it out then reinstall it once the Tick unit is through the firewall.
An inside shot of the Tick unit connected to the pedal. Note: It is not adjusted yet, I still have TONS of work to do before this thing is rollin.
Overall, the install was pretty strait forward and simple. I found the hardest part to be getting the (3) 13mm nuts from the clutch pedal assembly back onto their studs. You defiantly have to know how to work your hands in various positions.
The top is the Tick unit and the bottom is the stocker. You can see a nice different in the two.
Stock unit out
Getting ready to drill the 2 holes for the Tick unit.
The 3/8" holes drilled
The Tick unit is in. The blue Earl's fitting comes installed but I found it MUCH easier getting in its place once attached to the clutch assy. if you take it out then reinstall it once the Tick unit is through the firewall.
An inside shot of the Tick unit connected to the pedal. Note: It is not adjusted yet, I still have TONS of work to do before this thing is rollin.
Overall, the install was pretty strait forward and simple. I found the hardest part to be getting the (3) 13mm nuts from the clutch pedal assembly back onto their studs. You defiantly have to know how to work your hands in various positions.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
Thank you Mike and Bill. It will probably be April before I can adjust it because thats when I am guessing my turbo kit will be installed and tuned. I will update the thread as soon as I know though 
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
I didnt realize it wasnt needed. I noticed that the instructions said take it off but I figured they left off the part about putting it back on. Why is it not needed now but it was before?
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
The pedal spring is an assist spring...in that it makes the pedal slightly easier to depress. It wasn't "needed" before either, but they put it there anyways. 
It is not a return spring like most people tend to think it is.
It is not a return spring like most people tend to think it is.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
So should I remove it LOL I guess it wont matter either way
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Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
It probably doesn't matter.
Some people have felt this spring contributes to the sticky pedal syndrome, but removing the spring doesn't fix that problem, so whether the spring is there or not remains irrelevant.
Some people have felt this spring contributes to the sticky pedal syndrome, but removing the spring doesn't fix that problem, so whether the spring is there or not remains irrelevant.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
Cool, thanks for the help (again) Tom 
Ill just leave it there for now and maybe take it out later. I can pop it out very easy so I may try it both ways.
BTW, the cylinders didnt clean as much as I would like but I did spray them down and it spins over fine. I think on the first fireup all will be well. Thanks again
Ill just leave it there for now and maybe take it out later. I can pop it out very easy so I may try it both ways.
BTW, the cylinders didnt clean as much as I would like but I did spray them down and it spins over fine. I think on the first fireup all will be well. Thanks again
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 749
Likes: 2
From: West Yarmouth MA.
I just installed my Tick master. I must admit i found it to be a PIA. One thing I did to make it easier was remove drivers seat, ( I wanted to insulate floor anyways). The three nuts are the worst pain of the job. I ended up breaking out my 1/4" air ratchet to reinstall two of them. Honestly without that I would still be on my back dropping nuts on my forehead. Also in the PIA dept. is threading the two allen bolts into master through bracket. Be careful with this, easy to cross thread. Also prefit the white cap on master before installing then remove. Mine wouldn't go on and I had to heat it so it would stretch over master after mounted in car. One thing I don't like is the old gromet can't be made to seal firewall completely again. Some sealer will be needed. Other than that all went well with my install. By the way don't over adjust it. The clutch pedal needs to depress switch on the bottom of the bracket for ignition switch to complete the starter circuit. Ask me how I know.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
I just installed my Tick master. I must admit i found it to be a PIA. One thing I did to make it easier was remove drivers seat, ( I wanted to insulate floor anyways). The three nuts are the worst pain of the job. I ended up breaking out my 1/4" air ratchet to reinstall two of them. Honestly without that I would still be on my back dropping nuts on my forehead. Also in the PIA dept. is threading the two allen bolts into master through bracket. Be careful with this, easy to cross thread. Also prefit the white cap on master before installing then remove. Mine wouldn't go on and I had to heat it so it would stretch over master after mounted in car. One thing I don't like is the old gromet can't be made to seal firewall completely again. Some sealer will be needed. Other than that all went well with my install. By the way don't over adjust it. The clutch pedal needs to depress switch on the bottom of the bracket for ignition switch to complete the starter circuit. Ask me how I know.
Very good notes. I did all the exact things except remove my seats and use an air ratchet
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 728
Likes: 3
From: Clearwater Florida
Tick
I am happy with mine too. Don't forget the pedal stop.It helps get the pedal adjustment just right with all of the switches and then you don't over compress the pressure plate either.
You can get them from Carolina Clutch!
Don
You can get them from Carolina Clutch!
Don
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 67
From: Mechanicsburg PA
I'll echo the above comments:
- Getting the clutch pedal box out is a PIA and back in...even worse. Gear wrench did help.
- Got dizzy while upside down with my butt in the seat and head under the dash. Good idea removing the seat, that would make it much more tolerable
- Removed the assist spring. Mine wouldn't work with the spring in place, the turnbuckle on the rod connecting the pedal to the MC rubbed against the spring...it had to come out. Its a little stiffer but I like the feel.
- The adjustability is awesome. Its easy to adjust the pedal in or out to control the engagement. Do you like an immediate engagement right when you touch the pedal...or do you like a little slack? I prefer the later.
- Its a pricy unit but I doubt I'll have to worry about it ever again, the thing is very well made.
- Getting the clutch pedal box out is a PIA and back in...even worse. Gear wrench did help.
- Got dizzy while upside down with my butt in the seat and head under the dash. Good idea removing the seat, that would make it much more tolerable
- Removed the assist spring. Mine wouldn't work with the spring in place, the turnbuckle on the rod connecting the pedal to the MC rubbed against the spring...it had to come out. Its a little stiffer but I like the feel.
- The adjustability is awesome. Its easy to adjust the pedal in or out to control the engagement. Do you like an immediate engagement right when you touch the pedal...or do you like a little slack? I prefer the later.
- Its a pricy unit but I doubt I'll have to worry about it ever again, the thing is very well made.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
The Tick Performance Adjustable Master Cylinder is one of the best modifications I have done to my car. I have a Textralia clutch, and my car shifts 3x better than it did with stock Mc. This thing is worth every penny. GREAT MODIFICATION.
