When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well looks like its something else. I dont have a set of gauges however, I used a color gauge and it was in the yellow. that said the low pressure was between 45 and 65. Guess I need to find why the pressure is so high in the low side.
Well looks like its something else. I dont have a set of gauges however, I used a color gauge and it was in the yellow. that said the low pressure was between 45 and 65. Guess I need to find why the pressure is so high in the low side.
Time to go to your local garage and have them evacuate and re-fill the system.
Once that is complete, you'll be able to eliminate the mechanical issue and concentrate on any other electrical issues if any.
Are you boosted? Picture made me wonder. What about the vacuum line on the back of the intake if so. The HVAC system needs vacuum which a turbo,blown engine doesn't have except at part throttle.
Are you boosted? Picture made me wonder. What about the vacuum line on the back of the intake if so. The HVAC system needs vacuum which a turbo,blown engine doesn't have except at part throttle.
The manifold vacuum is used for Two things:
HVAC Damper door control
&
The A.I.R. System Control Valve
The HVAC vacuum ONLY controls the HVAC Air Box damper doors. When you switch levels or circulation modes, the vacuum Servo motors position the doors. The colored lines are vacuum lines for each vacuum servo.
Yes I am boosted. The problem however is the compressor kicking on and off at idle. It wont stay on longer than a few seconds. I did get it to stay on long enough to check the low pressure side and it was reading between 45 & 65psi. All the actuator doors work correctly.
Will vacuum cause a problem with compressor activation? I have 11in vacuum at idle?
Yes I am boosted. The problem however is the compressor kicking on and off at idle. It wont stay on longer than a few seconds. I did get it to stay on long enough to check the low pressure side and it was reading between 45 & 65psi. All the actuator doors work correctly.
Will vacuum cause a problem with compressor activation? I have 11in vacuum at idle?
Flip open your fuse box in the engine compartment and swap out #36 (Relay) with one next to it (Horn) and see if that helps.
I had a faulty relay that would kick on and off. Also what is you engine RPM with A/C on ?
No luck. Swapped relay's, same deal. Both fans do however come on.
Guess its time to R&R the ac system
I would take it to shop and have them re-charge your system. or at least check the pressure.
Pm me your email address and send you over schematics.
Try pulling codes again from DIC.
The "diagnostic display" mode is entered with the following procedure:
1. Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2. Press the "reset" button to turn off any warning messages
3. Press and hold "options" and
4. While holding "options", press "fuel" four times within a 10-second period.
Tell me what codes you get. I got P1546.
Also, what year and do you have auto or manual HVAC system ?
The low pressure switch has something to do with the activation of the clutch also. Did you say you were in the yellow on the gauge? Isn't green the OK/full level? If it is low on freon it will cycle like crazy.
Sounds like there is something wrong with idle kick up adjustment when you turn on air conditioner.
Once engaged, the compressor clutch will be disengaged for the following conditions:
The throttle position is 100 percent
The A/C pressure is more than 2826 kPa (410 psi)
The A/C pressure is less than 207 kPa (30 psi)
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is more than 121°C (250°F)
The engine speed is more than 5,500 RPM
The transmission shift
The PCM detects excessive torque load
The PCM detects insufficient idle quality
The PCM detects a hard launch condition
The compressor clutch can also disengage and/or fail to engage if:
1) it's worn and there is too much distance between the plates
2) it's not getting enough voltage to engage it or keep it engaged.
Check to see if your clutch is engaged and turning the compresssor at idle.
Yea it in the yellow. according to the guage and the readings on it, it says no to fill. not too sure. I was thinking of giving it a small shot anyhow just to see if it wuits cycling.
Tony, its an 03 Z06 Auto ac system. Still no codes
You can hear the compressor clutch when it engages and dis-engages.
Some of the GM cars with a two wire low pressure switch you can jumper them one to the other with a small piece of wire to see if the compressor runs and cools the car to rule it out, but don't know about the Vette with all of its electrical systems. I'd do it, but I'm a risk taker.
When its on, it cools AMAZING!!!! just cant keep it on.
Another thing to note, is when its running, the car runs @ 40 deg hotter. Now this is Texas and I dont have a radiator shroud so that could be the fix for that.
Get a set of guages at AutoZone for $39 and see what the pressures are
I just posted another reply for someone with poor cooling and said to change the expansion reed in the hi pressure line. $3 part but caused my fully charged system to blow tepid air. It the charge is LOW the lo pressure cutout also on the passanger fender will cut out the compressor. Put some guages on it and see what you have.BIGHANK
Yea it in the yellow. according to the guage and the readings on it, it says no to fill. not too sure. I was thinking of giving it a small shot anyhow just to see if it wuits cycling.
Tony, its an 03 Z06 Auto ac system. Still no codes
You can hear the compressor clutch when it engages and dis-engages.
If your coolant gets to 250F it will turn-off compressor.
Having the same problem, AC will not kick in, fuse is ok and swapped out the relays, nothing.
The AC light comes on but the compressor is not kicking in.
What line is what in the AC system, there are 2 fill ports, one on a fat line the other on the skinny one, fill ports at the front and back of the engine compartment. Which one do you use to ad 134A?
AC is working again! Seems there was some corrosion or dirt on the pressure switch connection, started pulling and reconnecting things and it just came on. Put a can of 134A in it anyway, low side pressure is up to 48.