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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 10:50 AM
  #41  
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
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Man those look fantastic - That is the same way I will go one day!

I also have the KOOKs exhaust (I am assuming that what yours are by the looks )

Anyway excellent job

Thanks,Matt
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 02:27 PM
  #42  
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looks nice!
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Old May 2, 2011 | 12:30 PM
  #43  
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What are the dimensions of the Cutouts? Total Length? Size of the opening I would need to cut? I want to put them on the 90 degree bend right before the mufflers. I'm a little nervous about putting them under the tranny and melting the rear leaf. Do you think they would fit on the 90 before the muffler?
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Old May 2, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #44  
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BADASS
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Old May 2, 2011 | 09:12 PM
  #45  
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I just installed mine a couple of weeks ago myself. I'm going to tell you, if you have a cam, this is a must mod.lol. I wasn't sure if I would like them. I was going of of what people where saying about them. Well I love them. Very easy to install. I have them open just spittle bit at red light or in town to show the Cam off. Whoever decides to get these, you will love them. Nice work Don.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 12:01 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by johnsos30
What are the dimensions of the Cutouts? Total Length? Size of the opening I would need to cut? I want to put them on the 90 degree bend right before the mufflers. I'm a little nervous about putting them under the tranny and melting the rear leaf. Do you think they would fit on the 90 before the muffler?
i'm gonna do a similar thing and just pulled the trigger on a set this afternoon. after talking with a couple guys at DMH, this is sorta how i'm gonna do it. i'm using the regular round ones instead of the low-profile



and when i was under the car checking my routing options, i'm gonna tap into the straight parts of the pipes as they come down behind the diff, and the valves should sit right at the bottom edges of the trunk bin. and being that far back, they should be almost invisible from eye (or driver's seat) level
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Old May 3, 2011 | 12:48 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ALLEGRO
Operation is quite simple. The instructions tell you to not hold the button down more that 5 seconds. It only takes about 3 seconds to go from full open to close.....or vise versa. I think that the only risk of failure you acually have is to hold the button down and burn out the motors. Dave seems like a straight up guy and I feel he will stand behind his product regardless of what you do.

I love mine.
It is likely a current sense application. At the end of travel there will be a current increase. The motor is protected for momentary current spikes. Holding the button could burn out the motor/controller.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #48  
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i asked DMH about it yesterday & (maybe it's a new feature since this thread was created) they'll stop on their own now when they reach their limits. (at least the round ones will - i'm sure the ovals are built the same way). he said now you can hold the button til your battery goes dead & the motors won't continue trying to turn farther than they're supposed to.

that was one of the biggest selling points for me... along with the 4yr warranty
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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:10 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by zebra86
i'm gonna do a similar thing and just pulled the trigger on a set this afternoon. after talking with a couple guys at DMH, this is sorta how i'm gonna do it. i'm using the regular round ones instead of the low-profile



and when i was under the car checking my routing options, i'm gonna tap into the straight parts of the pipes as they come down behind the diff, and the valves should sit right at the bottom edges of the trunk bin. and being that far back, they should be almost invisible from eye (or driver's seat) level
This is exactly what I want to do!!!!! Are you going to modify the Y pipe that come with the kit or are you doing something different to get it to do this? Did DMH suggest going with the round cutouts over the oval cutouts? I was hoping the ovals would fit like this picture to make the process easier.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:23 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by johnsos30
This is exactly what I want to do!!!!! Are you going to modify the Y pipe that come with the kit or are you doing something different to get it to do this? Did DMH suggest going with the round cutouts over the oval cutouts? I was hoping the ovals would fit like this picture to make the process easier.
they recommended the 2.5" round ones & not buying their y-pipes. there just ain't really room to fit their Y right there, so you'd just end up hacking it down to nothing anyway, so he threw in some flange pieces for me to use.

i'm gonna have the shop basically build a Y off the straight sections behind the diff & then weld the flanges to the end of that. then bolt the valves on
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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:30 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by zebra86
they recommended the 2.5" round ones & not buying their y-pipes. there just ain't really room to fit their Y right there, so you'd just end up hacking it down to nothing anyway, so he threw in some flange pieces for me to use.

i'm gonna have the shop basically build a Y off the straight sections behind the diff & then weld the flanges to the end of that. then bolt the valves on

When you get it all together, post a picture or two. I would love to see it. Thanks for the help.
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 03:48 PM
  #52  
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Great post!
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 06:16 PM
  #53  
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Nice! I run the DMH Low Profile cutouts.

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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #54  
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From: cold & windy
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Great post!
great bump, Bill!
sorry i never got pics of mine (i still don't own a camera), but i looks almost the same as the pic i posted
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #55  
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oh, i understand now
my vote's for doing the rounds out back. easier, cheaper, more out of the way... how can that be wrong?!
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 09:07 PM
  #56  
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only potential problem I can see is that it is a touch more visible and z06 exhaust can't be welded to (they are still ti at that point arent they?)
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 09:25 PM
  #57  
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can't see mine without laying on the ground
and if you have titanium mufflers, you'd just have to find a shop that can do titanium welds.
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 10:12 PM
  #58  
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The only part of the ZO6 exhaust that is Ti is anything that you can see in this picture:



Everything else is aluminum coated steel
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 10:34 PM
  #59  
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Well, since this thread is back from the dead, I also had my DMH Low Profile Cutouts installed shortly after my last post. My neighbor cut the holes and welded the cutouts onto my B&B RT 66's in about 2 hrs. It took me about an hour to run the wire.

This is what mine look like. Love the sound of them, and they are only seen if you practically get under the car.

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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The only part of the ZO6 exhaust that is Ti is anything that you can see in this picture:
**picture**
Everything else is aluminum coated steel
the aforepictured is what he was talking about not being able to weld to


...from what i understood anyway
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