When you shift that 1500 rpms above peak for that gear that drops the rpms to 200 or so rpms below peek hp for that next gear, Puts you right in the sweet spot.

However, most redlines are not set that high, hence the use and tuning for a FLAT torque curve.

A few years ago we dynoed and tuned my car for 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears, not just in 4th gear. Made a huge difference in acceleration and we found out the torque curves for each of 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears.

 

Forget people talking about shift points and 2 fingers and finesse... it's BS and its not gonna fix your problem which is the stock clutch cylinder...

stock clutch cylinders suck on C5s cuz theyre internal slaves, which means as the RPMs build the clutch and transmission gets HOT therefore all the heat goes into the slave cylinder (cuz its internal - it sits right next to the clutch/trans) and BOILS the stock fluid (much like boiling your stock brake fluid - exactly like it actually) and then your clutch pedal becomes useless because theyres no fluid in the hydraulics to dis-engage the clutch... i.e. it won't go into gear (SOMETIMES the clutch pedal will just stay on the floor when this happens).
swap fluid with some good stuff like Motul RBF600 (or any decent DOT4 Brake fluid. Next time you do a clutch job, install a remote bleeder. If you drive your car hard you need to swap the fluid often. You can also consider a tick master cylinder as well.

If you do any road course racing or any drag racing you'll notice this right away.

*edit* also ... DO NOT LEAVE THE RESERVOIR OPEN FOR ANY LONGER THAN NECESSARY (don't leave the fluid bottle open for that matter either) - brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. The more water is absorbs the LESS useful the fluid becomes and the LOWER the boiling point is.

 

Interesting

 

That is the GIVEN portion. when all is said and done, those two fingers and "finesse" get the shifting done.

Keeping the fluid fresh and cool.

Trans cooler and yes fresh clutch fluid. I use Castrol SRF same for the brakes with a remote clutch bleeder valve.

Most ppl dont maintain their cars very well, just beat on them.

 

You might want to actually read what was written before labeling that as "BS." No one stated that cured pedal issues.

You might also want to get a better understanding of what causes pedal issues. It's much more than the simple vapor-lock you described. The real cause of hydraulic seal failure is clutch dust. More details are here.

Ranger

 

Well I've owned enough cars to know that whupping on them and doing proper maintenence is usually better than not maintaning them properly and driving them nicely.
I do track days in my Z51 and don't have issues because I swap fluid like one should.
Given it may be... but that doesn't mean all are aware of it.
Castrol SRF? You're a baller man ... 80 bucks a quart for that IIRC
I'll stick to ATE and Motul (I'm a little bit on the cheaper side because I gotta put money aside for track days )
Agreed on how people maintain the cars. Maintenance is key.

 

[QUOTE=RideZX6R;1570399095]Well I've owned enough cars to know that whupping on them and doing proper maintenence is usually better than not maintaning them properly and driving them nicely.
I do track days in my Z51 and don't have issues because I swap fluid like one should.


And I haven't?????

Have you torn apart a Tremec? Do you understand how this particular trans works? If so then big props. If not, then please see that it is unlike most other transmissions. I have done all my own work on this car and had this thing almost torn down to the frame several times over. I am not an expert, but I do listen and learn. I have looked at and carefully examined every single part that goes into these transmissions.

Fixing them is not cheap either. Parts are designed to wear out. Yeah you can beat on them all day long, but at some point they fail. Why hasten the failure when using a better shifting technique will yield you the same performance results or better, and prolong the life of your trans and ultimately save you money and time?

I would rather be driving mine and having fun then pulling out the trans again for another rebuild.

To the OP, you have several different view points and I hope you get the problem resolved. Either way I don't want to contribute to the digression of this thread. So I am out.

Best of luck to all and continue to enjoy your cars.

 

one might find that even SRF at $80 a quart is less expensive then ATE for the clutch. SRF can take much more heat for many more sessions then even ATE or Motal.

Over the period of three years now I have use SRF for brakes and the clutch. Yes it was $72-$78 / quart, but on an average of 15 events a year, it was less expensive then changing ATE for 15 events the two years prior.

 

For what it’s worth, 1997 through 2004 all use the same part number of 89059282 which includes the throughout bearing and prefilled with DOT3.