Need advice on brakes
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland IL
Need advice on brakes
I need to replace rotors and pads, after my last HPDE (I only attend one event per year).
The question is do I spend the extra $400 to upgrade the front rotors from the one piece, OEM replacement rotor to the two piece floating rotor?
Both rotors will be made by StopTech.
Due to budget constraints:
1) I cannot upgrade the front calipers
2) Regardless of the type of rotor, it will be stock size, so that it will fit in the stock 17" wheel
So would I even notice a difference with the two piece rotor?
The question is do I spend the extra $400 to upgrade the front rotors from the one piece, OEM replacement rotor to the two piece floating rotor?
Both rotors will be made by StopTech.
Due to budget constraints:
1) I cannot upgrade the front calipers
2) Regardless of the type of rotor, it will be stock size, so that it will fit in the stock 17" wheel
So would I even notice a difference with the two piece rotor?
Last edited by gja; Jun 9, 2009 at 12:59 AM.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 1
From: Newport Oregon
Unless you need a brake job anyway save your money or spend it for more seat time. If you DO need to I'd stay with solid rotors and a good all around pad. I like the Centric 120 series rotors with Hawk HPS pads, but that's just my preference. Centric owns Stop-tech and their solids are a great low buck US made rotor. My vettes a DD plus a few track days/ autoX's per year and this setup works super for me. Last full change-out was somewhere around 300-350 if memory serves for all the parts.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 1
From: Littleton Colorado
The two piece ones can still crack, they may last longer but last time I did the calculations it was much cheaper to stay with the stocks and replace them as needed. And doing one HPDE a year yours will last quite a while. I only change the rotors if I need to do so, if they look good and don't have any issue then I keep them on. But, I inspect them a lot and keep them in good condition. If you don't inspect them often, then it may be better to replace with the pads.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland IL
Thanks for all the help guys.
Anyone have any experience going from the stock rotor to slotted? did you notice any difference in:
braking force?
fade?
pad wear?
Anyone have any experience going from the stock rotor to slotted? did you notice any difference in:
braking force?
fade?
pad wear?
Last edited by gja; Jun 9, 2009 at 01:16 PM.
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
I have NEVER heard of slotted rotors cracking. Drilled rotors on the other hand crack all the time.
I've had slotted rotors (PowerSlot Cryos) for almost 3 years now (about 15,000 miles) and I've got plenty of pad all-around. Since the slots keep the pads freshly "skimmed", lightly touching the brake pedal slows the car down faster than when I had the OEM rotors and many thousands of miles on the pads. In other words, I don't have to hit the brakes as hard as I used to. As far as fade goes, I haven't tracked my car but have driven on some very agressive mountain runs (see sig pic) and I have always been impressed with the stock pads. It's the rotors I had issue with, as they would build up uneven pad deposits and cause the pedal to pulsate. Slotted rotors solved that problem in a hurry.
I've had slotted rotors (PowerSlot Cryos) for almost 3 years now (about 15,000 miles) and I've got plenty of pad all-around. Since the slots keep the pads freshly "skimmed", lightly touching the brake pedal slows the car down faster than when I had the OEM rotors and many thousands of miles on the pads. In other words, I don't have to hit the brakes as hard as I used to. As far as fade goes, I haven't tracked my car but have driven on some very agressive mountain runs (see sig pic) and I have always been impressed with the stock pads. It's the rotors I had issue with, as they would build up uneven pad deposits and cause the pedal to pulsate. Slotted rotors solved that problem in a hurry.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
NAPA rotors.
$200 bucks and you get FOUR damn nice dependable rotors!!!!!!!!!! If you are military /retired military or AAA you even get a 17% discount!!!!!!!!!!
Installed them on my ZO6. FANTASTIC! I do drive it very hard!
BC
$200 bucks and you get FOUR damn nice dependable rotors!!!!!!!!!! If you are military /retired military or AAA you even get a 17% discount!!!!!!!!!!Installed them on my ZO6. FANTASTIC! I do drive it very hard!
BC
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 275
Likes: 1
From: Romeo MI
Unless you need a brake job anyway save your money or spend it for more seat time. If you DO need to I'd stay with solid rotors and a good all around pad. I like the Centric 120 series rotors with Hawk HPS pads, but that's just my preference. Centric owns Stop-tech and their solids are a great low buck US made rotor. My vettes a DD plus a few track days/ autoX's per year and this setup works super for me. Last full change-out was somewhere around 300-350 if memory serves for all the parts.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 87
Likes: 1
Ditto ur info, I just installed power slot rotors front(made by centric)and centric blanks on the rear(both sets of rotors had hats painted black)with hawk hps pads and ate super blue dot4 fluid(had stainless lines already)...I couldn't be happier, totally quiet, very little dust and stopping has been nicely improved(that's my 3¢)oh, and using my original c5 calipers.
