Bill Curlee

If you clear the DTCs do they come back after you start the car?? The only DTCs that I would worry about right now are the column lock DTCs.

B2587H
B2592H

The U series DTC's are not right either. Leave the doors disconnected and clear all the DTCs and then see what comes back.

Bill

jac1979

Ok so I fixed the exposed wires going to the crankshaft position sensor and put everything back together. Car doesn't start at all now. I cleared the codes but now I am getting a HVAC U1160HC. But I'm not seeing a U1160 on any lists I can find online within the HVAC section. I am also getting a Charge system fault message when I shut the key off after trying to start.

Could the crankshaft position sensor need to be replaced? Shouldn't I be getting a code of the crankshaft position sensor if it was bad?

I had trouble with the column lock about a year ago and never cleared the code then so I'm guessing that's what those are from.

jac1979

I tried starting the car with the door connectors unplugged, still doesn't start. Cleared the codes while connectors unplugged and that's when the HVAC U1160 HC appeared. I reconnected the doors cleared that code. I have not seen any codes reappear but the car doesn't start so it's hard to say if the codes even have a chance to reappear. I am not getting any Charge system fault messages since I reconnected the doors.

dougbfresh

Pull one of the plug wires and hold it close to a ground while somelse cranks the car to see if your getting spark.

jac1979

Yes there is spark...after trying to start it again I can get the car to start but it hardly starts worse than before I fixed the crankshaft position sensor wires. I have to give it gas while cranking to get it to start and it sputters for about 3-5 seconds and stales. This is why I am thinking the crankshaft sensor got damaged from the burnt wires.

dougbfresh

You need to get it on a scanner so you can see the crank and cam signals.

Bill Curlee

Unplug the HVAC controller and see if the car will start. You will still get the U series DTC but, if theres somethin wrong with the controller, that will be out of the circuit.

Have you done a crank shaft relearn procedure?

jac1979

No, how do you do a crank shaft relearn procedure?

Where is the HVAC controller so I can unplug?

lucky131969

Yep, strong possibility. I'd be looking at the repair again too.

jac1979

Bill,

Is this what you are talking about...I have a tune...this won't affect my tune will it?

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showpo...72&postcount=5

jac1979

Unpluged the HVAC controls and car still doesn't start. The controls in the dash...I'm assuming that's what you were talking about unless there is a controler box somewhere I am not aware of.

Do you think it's a good idea to get a fuel pressure gauge to make sure that is ok? I can hear the fuel pump hum before trying to start and the exhaust smells like gas when trying to crank.

lucky131969

You really need to take a step back, and organize your troubleshooting. Do you have a service manual? Have you organized your steps, and documented what you know is good....or are you just relying on forum members to guess for you? Not trying to give you a hard time, but it sounds like you need to regroup, and list your knowns v/s unknowns.

rebelheart

I agree,at this point it is time to stop guessing and put it on a scanner to see what is what.

jac1979

Nope I don't have service manuals...just ordered them though.

I know the the wires going to the CPS were burnt
I know the engine runs like an engine that is not properly timed
I know there is spark because the engine does start briefly
I know I changed the CPS and the problem still exists

You are right I am probably not going about this the best way with the best diagnostic tools. The dealership is probably going to be solving this one.

lucky131969

Not necessarily, I'm just suggesting that you sit down, and make a list of knowns and unknowns if just from a fuel/air/spark perspective. It is not out of the realm of possibilities, that with all the cranking you've been doing, that the plugs are fuel fowled. Just make a list, I can help if needed.

jcwaugh

When you turn the key to the ON position, do you hear the fuel pump come on for a couple of seconds?

jac1979

Ok so I found out that I only had 10 psi of fuel pressure, changed fuel pump and filter and now I have 55-60 psi. But the car still idles very rough and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. I don't have the ability to do a crankshaft relearn because I don't have a tech 2 scan tool. But not sure this is really the problem because I don't think it should be running this rough even before a relearn is done. Because part of the relearn procedure is to idle the car to normal operating temperature.

Other things I've checked. Fuel pressure is consistent when key is on/engine off, cranking and while running.

Minifuses for inj1 and inj2 are both good.

Fuel injector resistances are all within acceptable range.

I have checked the connections at the PCM, they were dry, clean and no signs of corrosion.

The dealership told me the only problem was that I need to change the fuel pump so I have kind of lost faith in them.

Is there a way to test the MAF sensor that I am not seeing in the service manual?

lucky131969

Did the dealership change the pump? How did they arrive at that conclusion?

jac1979

No the dealership wanted $1200 to change the pump and filter. They wanted $750 for the pump alone. They kept harping on the lifetime warranty that would be provided on the part and labor. They took the fuel pressure at the fuel rail with a gauge which was 10 psi so they said. Kind of a simple diagnosis and stupid on my part for not doing that but the auto parts store that I visited didn't have a gauge. I have one now had to go out of my area to find one.

I ended up going to a local auto store and went with a Bosch replacement pump that was $450 with a lifetime warranty. Changed the pump and filter myself...was actually pretty easy just wish it fixed the problem.

Also got the service manuals so I am looking through those, I some diagnostic checks for the MAF wiring in the manuals which I am going to try tomorrow.

lucky131969

While the car was at the dealership, did they run a diagnostic to verify all the sensors were reporting in normally?

Like a said before, a comprehensive list of knowns and unknowns needs to be made. I mean no offense, but based on the troubleshooting so far, I can't help but wonder if the crank sensor wiring was repaired properly....did you verify the integrity of the wiring after the repair with a DMM? The chances of you having burned/shorted crank sensor wiring and a fuel pump failing at the same time are slim to none.....and now you are chasing the MAF? Make a list....go from there. Start with the very basics: Fuel, Air, Ignition.....