C5 tuning PM

 

Your request is simular to wanting a tire that is GREAT in providing dry traction, provides excellent wet and cold weather traction,, last 40,000 miles, and handles extremely well in the snow and only cost $75.

It just aint going to happen. Your going to sacrifice something. If your going to do heads and cam,,,you might as well go ALL the way.

LT Headers
42 lb/hr injectors\
Ported TB
VARARAM
High flow CATS

The thing that your going to need the most is a PROFESSIONAL TUNE after everything is installed.

BC

 

I have a MS3 in my DD. Very rough idle and still street friendly.

 

Wow little rough on the guy ya think. He's asking for advice not your ego.... Start with bolt-ons.. ie LT's hi-flow cats catback air induction. A M6 car should respond well to this. The car will run rich due to the LT's so a tune is also a huge plus. Mods plus tune will yeild a heathly gain. If H/C Is what you seek.....Well do a search. I'm sure you will find more then enough info here to help you on your quest for power. On the side, A M6 car with full bolt-ons H/C and proper tuning can be a 420+ rwhp DD. Good Luck, Dustyn

 

alright

 

Dude, I'm running a Futral F11 228/230 cam and I think you would like it. It's not what a lot of guys would call "hard core", but for what you're looking for, it can yell pretty loud. You can tune this cam to dd your grandma to church bingo. When you're idling, you can look over and watch her get shaked around. You wouldnt think it was funny, but believe me....
I tuned it myself, and the biggest problem at first was taking off smoothly from a stop. I had to mess with the "throttle cracker" table in the engine tune for about a month, but now she takes off really smooth. You can't smoothly drive this cam as slow as the factory ls6 cam (stop and go traffic) without surging a little, but the difference is negligable and you quickly adapt to it. Maybe a professional tuner could get it even better. It really starts pulling after 4000. This cam sounds awsome through longtubes and 3" pipes. The factory Z06 Ti catback makes it all sound so sweet...

I cant help you with the heads as i'm still running stock ls6 heads.
Have fun, man!

 

I made 430rwhp with a bolt on, ms3 02 z06. You should be able to make over 450, maybe closer to 470 with heads and a good cam. A custom grind cam is the best way to go.

Keep in mind your clutch might not hold up long either, mine ls6 clutch started slipping soon after the cam install.

 

[QUOTE=Its_Go_Time;1571948920]Dude, I'm running a Futral F11 228/230 cam and I think you would like it. It's not what a lot of guys would call "hard core", but for what you're looking for, it can yell pretty loud. You can tune this cam to dd your grandma to church bingo. When you're idling, you can look over and watch her get shaked around. You wouldnt think it was funny, but believe me....
I tuned it myself, and the biggest problem at first was taking off smoothly from a stop. I had to mess with the "throttle cracker" table in the engine tune for about a month, but now she takes off really smooth. You can't smoothly drive this cam as slow as the factory ls6 cam (stop and go traffic) without surging a little, but the difference is negligable and you quickly adapt to it. Maybe a professional tuner could get it even better. It really starts pulling after 4000. This cam sounds awsome through longtubes and 3" pipes. The factory Z06 Ti catback makes it all sound so sweet...

cool

 

o ok

 

Hi, I also have an 01 6 speed and managed to get 410rwhp out of it with the following:

vararam intake
ported throttlebody
patriot stage ii heads
thunder racing cheatr cam (< don't buy, get the futral or at least something bigger than the cheatr)
ssc (ebay) longtubes/high flow cats
B&B bullet exhaust
tune

I'm not a big fan of the cam but it does lope at idle and runs OK throughout the rpm range, I would probably go with a 228/228 or larger cam if I had to do it again. Are you going to do the work yourself? There is a great set of instructions on ls1howto.com if you are. I did all of the work myself so the cost wasn't too bad, if you are going to have someone install it then I would do everything at the same time as it will be cheaper. I would also consider getting an intake manifold (ported fast probably)/air bridge at the same time. Good luck!

Here are some rough numbers if I remember things right:

heads/cam/hardened pushrods: $1600 from patriot performance
vararam: $~$300
ssc headers: ~$600 with cats
vararam air bridge: $80
ported fast with throttlebody: ~$1200
tune: ~$500

 

Forgot to mention, you will need new injectors as well, I think I paid just under $300 for some SVO injectors.

 

Cody

I wasn't trying to be a smart *** or a *****. I guess I came off the wrong way and should have just gotten to the facts. Sorry if I offended you. I didn't intend to do that.

The more radical you get from the factory cam, the less dependable and less daily drivable your car becomes. Im not saying that a radical cam cant be street driven. Hell,,,Im running a 240'ish duration cam at 114 LSA and 610 lift with patriot stage II heads and a ported FAST/Ported 90mm LS2 TB. 450 RWHP is fun and I love it but, some days, it gets temperamental;. Its still street able but, there are trade offs. Driving in traffic (manual tranny) can become a aggravating. When you seriously UP the power, you spend cash else where un-intentionally. I needed a new clutch with in an hour of testing out my new clutch.

If I had it to do all over again,,,,I would save the extra cash you need and go forced induction. Great daily driver manners very dependable and all the power that you need! You will still need to beef up the weak links!

Whats your NEW minimum HP goal and what do you intend to do to the car in the future?

Bill

 

oh ok

 

cool

 

You guys think this is an attack? Where the hell is your sense of humor. Better yet, that statement sais alot

 

haha

 

It will be a fun project, check out www.ls1howto.com and download/print the directions, I'm no mechanic but managed to disassemble the engine and put it back together with the instructions. If you just want a cam you won't approach 400rwhp unless you go REALLY big (correct me if I'm wrong here people). I've read that you should at least upgrade to dual springs if you swap the cam so it might behoove you to just put on new heads at the same time (patriot stage 2s are about $1100 I think).

With just an intake/catback and heads/cam/tune I put down 383rwhp but I would guess that the ported heads were as much to blame (thank?) as the cam. I'm not a cam expert but I consistently read that a 224/224 .5??/.5?? 112 or 114 cam or a 228/228 .5??/.5?? 112 or 114 cam is the way to go. I didn't go that way so don't buy the cam that I bought .

To put this in perspective the best I've done in my car at the track is a 12.77 (2.20 60' @ 115 mph) with just over 400rwhp. Granted a better driver might get low 12s to high 11s but not without slicks . A cam/spring upgrade shouldn't be too expensive and will be a good starting point if you want to upgrade further in the future (which you will, I have a crystal ball ).

 

I have an 02 ZO6. Heres the progression of HP mods from stock:

Added 1 3/4" primary Stainless Works SS LT headers, High flow CATs, 3" Stainless Works complete CAT back exhaust, VARARAM VB2, Ported TB and a professional TUNE! With the ZO6 243 heads, I made 390 RWHP and 375 RWTQ. Made it quick but, I seriously challenged my stock tire. Best I could pull off at the track (on crappy street tires) was 12.45 at 117mph. If I had traction and better driving high 11's would have been achievable.

Next round of mods: Patriot Stage II heads, Home Ported FAST 90 & 90mm LS2 TB, 42 lb/hr injectors, LS2 timing chain, ENGLANDGREEN whiplash cam (pretty big cam) high 240's duration, 114 LSA, & 610 valve lift. All that together with the headers and Vararam gave me 450 RWHP and unknown TQ. I smoked the stock ZO6 clutch at WOT on the first test drive on the street

So, now that I am at the HP stage of breaking weak stuff. I have already purchased a SPEC Duel Disk clutch, RPM Stage IV Tranny, TICK Master Cylinder hardened output shaft new torque tube bushings. Where does it end?? Its a sickness I tell ya!!!

I do all my own work so I get some labor savings! The second EFI Live tune a friend and I did.

Bill

 

hm ok

 

My stock ZO6 tranny never failed me. Its works flawlessly. The ONLY reason I got the up-grade was:

- It was a VERY good price used... NM12 professionally built $1200.
- The rear output shaft is hardened. If the rear end ever goes, the output shaft has a better chance of survival.
- Carbon Fiber Synchros. Smoother shift.
- Steel shift forks, wont bend
- billet shift keys, wont break

A "VERY LARGE cam without additional breathing mods, "heads and ported TB" would be counter productive. Your not going to see all the benefits of the cam. It all works together as a package.

Some of the other things that your going to need or should have are:

- Better injectors, maybe 36's
- Better valve springs
- Different harmonic damper
- Up-Graded timing chain, LS2 or better
- up-graded push-rods
- PROFESSIONAL TUNE
- Ported Throttle Body
- Power Bond 25% under drive damper or other aftermarket damper.

I also up-graded to the following. They don't add power but help with reliability:

- ARP-head studs
- Cadillac Racing Lifters
- Home Ported FAST 90
- Home Ported 90 mm TB
- MAP relocation harness Kit
- Melling Oil pump
- Damper pinned to the crank
- ARP Damper Bolt
- NGK Plugs


Yes, IMHO the VARARAM is one of the best HP CAI. I have one on my 02 Z and the wifes 06 Coupe.

BC