Hi guys a few questions for those who did the swap. I did a search but can seem to find one answer to one of my following questions. I am going to be installing a LS6 intake manifold and will be removing the ribs on the bottom of the intake via white shoe polish so will not need the vapor coolant tube.

1.Is this perfectly all right doing it this way?

2.I assume I will NOT need the 2 plugs would this be correct?

3.A while back in my research I seen a photo with the bottom of the LS6 intake manifold either already with the ribs removed or a red outline showing what to remove. I can’t locate that picture anyone happen know that photo of have a link to it?

Thanks

 

Remove the RIBs where ever the contact points are and dont loose any sleep!! You will be FINE!


BC

 

1. Yes.
2. Correct.
3. Sorry, can't help you with link/pics but, if you apply the white shoe polish to your existing coolant tubes and while the shoe polish is still wet, set your new manifold down in the correct position, you will be able to see exactly where you need to Dremel/grind some of the reinforcing ribs away for proper clearance. Additionally, you will need to remove the small plastic clip(s) that hold the knock sensor wires and use a small zip tie if you want. They will be fine. The hard plastic clips are a bit too tall/thick and will interfere with the manifold seating correctly otherwise. You'll see what I mean when you get in there.

Oh btw, I cannot emphasize enough the need to torque the CLEAN (threads) manifold bolts to the proper INCH POUND torque setting. I don't have the torque value in front of me at the moment, but if someone doesn't jump in here with it, be sure to look it up. Very important, as those bolts are fairly long and thin.
HTH

 

Ok thanks a lot guys that was quick. I have a few how to's but wanted to make sure on a couple things. I do have the tq inch pound numbers. Thanks again for the quick anwsers and the tips!!

 

Glad to help. Another tip: clean with compressed air (or vacuum) along both sides of your old manifold before removing. Lots of sand/grit/dirt accumulates in the nooks and crannies along the side edges of the manifold and will fall directly into the open cylinder head intake ports when you pull the manifold if you don't.

 

Here is a link to one that has been ground down Good Luck
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...-manifold.html

 

I remember doing this on another previous car intake install helped to clean out around the fuel injectors also a few years ago. But I might of not remenber to do this on this install thanks for bringing this I wrote it down on my install list!

 

Thanks good link! That guy asked the exact questions I was asking! I did quite a bit of research and a few even on that site but missed that thread. Nice pictures and is (similar) to what I was looking for can never have too much info imo. I feel a whole better about doing this swap now thanks to you guys!

 

Here is a detailed video, 2 parts. May save some trouble

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=64246122

 

You guys are killing me with all this info nice vid. Interesting on my GT when removing the intake I had to remove the fuel rails (at the time I also remove the injectors) first completely to be able to even start to lift the intake off the heads with the fuel line still connected. On the lS1 you can lift the intake right off the heads with the fuel rails and injectors in place. If you guys can supply me with this kind of info/ help I am going to research what it takes to put in a cam in a ls1, what gains you get cam only if the gains look good enough or woth it to me and looks like I might be able to handle it from that research. Then I'll come here in the tech forum see what info you guys can give me, how to info (links) you give me then if it still looks like I can handle I might do it. I know heads w/cam are the way to go but not going to do heads if cam alone gains are decent I might go cam only (& dyno tune) have to see if there are NSR cams which would make it even easier. I think I would need a tune with a cam install right? I don't think I could get a mail order tune from ECS for a cam install? So will need a dyno tune then? I do have the 97 3 volume service manuals I will research this and think about now.

 

Ok I am going to skip the cam after just a little research its nothing like my GT just NSR cams meaning no springs required just drop in the cams, mail order tune 90% or go dyno tune your done. On a LS1 wow way more $$$ and involved per parts than I would have thought.

LS1 Cam require
Push rods $$
New springs $$$
Need to make sure push rod length setup with the springs is correct depending on cam?
Also recommended but optional
HP Oil Pump $$$
Under drive pulley $$$
Also would need a lift (per steering) which I can get access to one but wow just for a cam I would have never thought.

I’ll just stick with headers in the future skip the cam and that’s it.

 

The guy in the VID forgot one thing. He never mentioned the small vacuum line on the back of the manifold. Its different on the C5 Corvette. It looks like this:







Forget that little hose and the HVAC Vents will not switch!


Good video!

 

Thanks Bill I appreciate the pics and all the info!

Below is a repost I posted in another thread just thought I'd would post it here also.


Just a small update

Just a quick update the LS6 intake arrived pics below I will get the intake on this weekend might even start today and weather (MW) permitting schedule a dyno for next week. I will be doing the throttle body bypass no comments on this please. I also will be using CRC MAFS cleaner to clean the sensor I read might pick up to around 4 rwhp you could of lost if dirty car has 41K on it. I have no ideal if true or not same as the TB bypass but while I have it apart no reason not to do both imo and car sits in the garage in the winter per TB bypass. I though about removing the MAF screen but decided against it for now need to do more resarch on this. I think I am going to mod the Z06 AB similar to what I think if I remember correctly it was Hotwheels57 (nice mod imo)did pic below of the mod. The only thing I am going to do different is not run the screen on the Z06 AB mod. I also am thinking about cutting out a piece of the shroud 2" vertical by 12 "horizontal between the radiator and the shroud about 6'inches up from the lip of where the front bumper cover bolts on the bottom under the car. I then want to attach a small 1/2-3/4" x 12" long deflector to direct air to the Z06 AB. I really believe this will drive more and cooler air in once you get rolling. Does anyone have any negatives about doing this? Just to note I rarely drive in rain let alone any puddles and this will be higher that the Vararam air pick up. If anyone can suggest any thing else to do while have I have the car a part doing this the LS6 intake swap please post?

I think the only mod I will do next is headers research if a tune is needed put it on the dyno look at the numbers decide if tuning is needed per tune and maybe tune that day and do another dyno pull. Thanks for your input and info in these posts also thanks to LoneStarFRC, Bill Curlee & Yostie05 from the tech forum per my questions for good info! If it turns ou dyno numbers are not as high as I was hoping it was still fun researching and working on the car imo. I will see if I can get the dyno numbers in both sae corrected and standard just for comparison.






Z06 AB mod by I think it was member Hotwheels57 I like this mod

 

That mod pic looks like hotwheels57s' mod. The GM chicklet is the give away.

 

Ok thanks changed it ^^^ from member 8vette7 to Hotwheels57.

 

Go with the MS3 cam kit from texas speed. Its only $700 and the only thing it doesn't come with is gaskets I think. You could pick up 50hp with this alone!!

 

If your handy with a porting tool, get a sanding drum/cartridge roll and port your TB! Good for 5-6 more HP.

BC

 

Thanks you have to tell me about that. Ok I looked at this cam 55 rwhp seems hard to believe on cam only. Do you know if they mean 55rwhp with heads? This cam has a rough idle trust me I like the loopy sound and all but on this car if I went cam kind want to go with more a smother idle just a slight loopy sound. I only did a little research not a lot but seems you have to replace the oil pump and UDP wonder how necessary is this you guys think in your opinion?. Then you need a lift to drop the steering kind of a pain. I can get access but if I did a cam I wanted to do this in my garage and work at my own pace if you know what I mean and take my time 1-2 days. Just curious anyone know is it possible to drop the steering using jack stands?

 

I know I looked at that its just I do not know what I am doing when it comes to porting and do not want to take a chance and mess the TB up. I did check an exchange for like $159.00 from two vendors Vmax I think it was and someone else it was temping but I going to hold off for now. Thanks for suggestion if you have any other suggestions mod wise let me know post them?

 

I did a home ported FAST 90/90mm TB, Patriot performance Stage II Heads/CAM (England Green whiplash), 42 injectors, new oil pump, Power Bond damper, header reinstall all in my drive way on jack stands. Its very doable!

With the above STUFF,,,I have 450 RWHP.