LS3 C5 conversion thread
#22
Le Mans Master
my number 7 piston went the exact same way. even broke at the same location. I did the LS3 (416) conversion as well...stupid stock cast pistons
#25
Safety Car
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: Madison Wisconsin
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6 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08
The problem that I see with installing heads and intake first is that the chains which support the engine while you install it would have to go in the front and rear of the cylinder heads. I'm not sure that there is room between the head and firewall to get the bolts which would hold the chains to the head out after the motor is installed. For sure, I didn't want to find out! lol
I want to say that if you left the intake off you could fabricate a lift plate similar to this to remove the engine:
I want to say that if you left the intake off you could fabricate a lift plate similar to this to remove the engine:
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
#28
Pro
Thread Starter
Core engine: $800. I did a preliminary cleaning and teardown removing cam, pistons, crank, etc. and brought the block and crank to my machine shop. I was hoping to reuse the stock rods and pistons, but my particular core was victim of a dropped valve and it created a bit of carnage.... 3 pistons were beat and one of the cylinders had a scratch in it that required a .005" hone. Also, to stay with a shelf flattop 4.070" piston with valve reliefs, I needed
a 6.125" rod as opposed to a factory 6.098" rod to keep the quench correct. Having to hone the block contributed significant additional cost, but now I have forged rods and pistons.
Pistons: $670ish if I remember right. Mahle power pak with pistons, pins, rings, and retaining clips.
Rods: $550ish for Eagle rods, ended up with another $150 in machine work for them to get the big end clearances right. Maybe I should have bought the compstar rods instead?
Bearings: $200 I think for main and rod bearings, Clevite 77 stuff, not H series.
Machine work: $1100 ballpark. 8 cylinders honed .005" over, block cleaned and deburred, edges knocked down, DOD holes tapped and plugged, mains align honed, new cam bearings, rotating assembly balanced.
Timing cover: $165 through Jegs
Headgaskets: $80
CNC Cylinder heads, intake rockers and rocker stands: $1475 from TSP.
Mill heads some more: $100 (.020" milling was ~ 2.5 cc from 70cc unmilled, .040" was ~5 cc total, we stopped at 65cc).
LS3 Intake manifold, injectors, fuel rails: $400 on ebay.
Wiring harness adapters: $150
Hex A Just LS2 2x cam gear: $150
LS3 valley cover: $30 on ebay
Theres some other stuff that I don't know off the top of my head... front and rear main seals, 24x crank sensor, valley cover gasket.
I saved a BUNCH of money doing the removal, assembly, and install myself.
Last edited by aweil; 12-25-2009 at 09:11 AM.
#29
Safety Car
Let's see....
Core engine: $800. I did a preliminary cleaning and teardown removing cam, pistons, crank, etc. and brought the block and crank to my machine shop. I was hoping to reuse the stock rods and pistons, but my particular core was victim of a dropped valve and it created a bit of carnage.... 3 pistons were beat and one of the cylinders had a scratch in it that required a .005" hone. Also, to stay with a shelf flattop 4.070" piston with valve reliefs, I needed
a 6.125" rod as opposed to a factory 6.098" rod to keep the quench correct. Having to hone the block contributed significant additional cost, but now I have forged rods and pistons.
Pistons: $670ish if I remember right. Mahle power pak with pistons, pins, rings, and retaining clips.
Rods: $550ish for Eagle rods, ended up with another $150 in machine work for them to get the big end clearances right. Maybe I should have bought the compstar rods instead?
Bearings: $200 I think for main and rod bearings, Clevite 77 stuff, not H series.
Machine work: $1100 ballpark. 8 cylinders honed .005" over, block cleaned and deburred, edges knocked down, DOD holes tapped and plugged, mains align honed, new cam bearings, rotating assembly balanced.
Timing cover: $165 through Jegs
Headgaskets: $80
CNC Cylinder heads, intake rockers and rocker stands: $1475 from TSP.
Mill heads some more: $100 (.020" milling was ~ 2.5 cc from 70cc unmilled, .040" was ~5 cc total, we stopped at 65cc).
LS3 Intake manifold, injectors, fuel rails: $400 on ebay.
Wiring harness adapters: $150
Hex A Just LS2 2x cam gear: $150
LS3 valley cover: $30 on ebay
Theres some other stuff that I don't know off the top of my head... front and rear main seals, 24x crank sensor, valley cover gasket.
I saved a BUNCH of money doing the removal, assembly, and install myself.
Core engine: $800. I did a preliminary cleaning and teardown removing cam, pistons, crank, etc. and brought the block and crank to my machine shop. I was hoping to reuse the stock rods and pistons, but my particular core was victim of a dropped valve and it created a bit of carnage.... 3 pistons were beat and one of the cylinders had a scratch in it that required a .005" hone. Also, to stay with a shelf flattop 4.070" piston with valve reliefs, I needed
a 6.125" rod as opposed to a factory 6.098" rod to keep the quench correct. Having to hone the block contributed significant additional cost, but now I have forged rods and pistons.
Pistons: $670ish if I remember right. Mahle power pak with pistons, pins, rings, and retaining clips.
Rods: $550ish for Eagle rods, ended up with another $150 in machine work for them to get the big end clearances right. Maybe I should have bought the compstar rods instead?
Bearings: $200 I think for main and rod bearings, Clevite 77 stuff, not H series.
Machine work: $1100 ballpark. 8 cylinders honed .005" over, block cleaned and deburred, edges knocked down, DOD holes tapped and plugged, mains align honed, new cam bearings, rotating assembly balanced.
Timing cover: $165 through Jegs
Headgaskets: $80
CNC Cylinder heads, intake rockers and rocker stands: $1475 from TSP.
Mill heads some more: $100 (.020" milling was ~ 2.5 cc from 70cc unmilled, .040" was ~5 cc total, we stopped at 65cc).
LS3 Intake manifold, injectors, fuel rails: $400 on ebay.
Wiring harness adapters: $150
Hex A Just LS2 2x cam gear: $150
LS3 valley cover: $30 on ebay
Theres some other stuff that I don't know off the top of my head... front and rear main seals, 24x crank sensor, valley cover gasket.
I saved a BUNCH of money doing the removal, assembly, and install myself.
FSTFRC
#31
Drifting
I just installed my LS3 418 with the heads on. I left the cradle a little low (3/4") until I finished connecting all the wires and installing the intake. I found it much easier to do all the head work with the motor on the stand.
I like the intake valley lift plate!
I like the intake valley lift plate!
#33
Race Director
Nice work Andrew.
I've been running L92 heads for almost 4 years now. First on my 403 and now 427. I've used 4 different cams in that period. You were smart to avoid throwing a big donket dic cam in there and ruining the beaty of the L92/LS3 heads - great average power. I'm going to bet your tip in is very strong and the car is just a blast to drive. Too many people have tried HUGE cams with these heads only to make less HP and and be much less fun to drive. The sweet spot on the intake side seems to be in the 230 degree range for best average power.
How much timing were you able to crank in? The heads LOVE spark lead.
Well done,
Kevin
I've been running L92 heads for almost 4 years now. First on my 403 and now 427. I've used 4 different cams in that period. You were smart to avoid throwing a big donket dic cam in there and ruining the beaty of the L92/LS3 heads - great average power. I'm going to bet your tip in is very strong and the car is just a blast to drive. Too many people have tried HUGE cams with these heads only to make less HP and and be much less fun to drive. The sweet spot on the intake side seems to be in the 230 degree range for best average power.
How much timing were you able to crank in? The heads LOVE spark lead.
Well done,
Kevin
#35
Pro
Thread Starter
I used an LS2 throttle body, but I believe they are interchangeable. Assuming that you got the proper conversion harness from Casper's, it should work. HOWEVER, I have found that it is SUPER easy to bend the pins in that thing, you should check yours and make sure that every pin is making a good connection... you can check with a voltmeter on continuity on both sides of each connector without taking it apart.
#36
Pro
Thread Starter
Nice work Andrew.
I've been running L92 heads for almost 4 years now. First on my 403 and now 427. I've used 4 different cams in that period. You were smart to avoid throwing a big donket dic cam in there and ruining the beaty of the L92/LS3 heads - great average power. I'm going to bet your tip in is very strong and the car is just a blast to drive. Too many people have tried HUGE cams with these heads only to make less HP and and be much less fun to drive. The sweet spot on the intake side seems to be in the 230 degree range for best average power.
How much timing were you able to crank in? The heads LOVE spark lead.
Well done,
Kevin
I've been running L92 heads for almost 4 years now. First on my 403 and now 427. I've used 4 different cams in that period. You were smart to avoid throwing a big donket dic cam in there and ruining the beaty of the L92/LS3 heads - great average power. I'm going to bet your tip in is very strong and the car is just a blast to drive. Too many people have tried HUGE cams with these heads only to make less HP and and be much less fun to drive. The sweet spot on the intake side seems to be in the 230 degree range for best average power.
How much timing were you able to crank in? The heads LOVE spark lead.
Well done,
Kevin
#37
Pro
Thread Starter
They are the current results, but not the end.
I purchased an LG G6X3 cam that I'm going to try to see if I can get closer to 500 rwhp, plus the spinmonster cam isn't rowdy enough for me. I guess I'm not as old as I thought I was? lol
I purchased an LG G6X3 cam that I'm going to try to see if I can get closer to 500 rwhp, plus the spinmonster cam isn't rowdy enough for me. I guess I'm not as old as I thought I was? lol
#38
Race Director
The G5X3 cam that I have in my C5 is a little more cam than I would like to run on the street myself. It reminds of the 60 era muscle cars.
#39
Safety Car
I used an LS2 throttle body, but I believe they are interchangeable. Assuming that you got the proper conversion harness from Casper's, it should work. HOWEVER, I have found that it is SUPER easy to bend the pins in that thing, you should check yours and make sure that every pin is making a good connection... you can check with a voltmeter on continuity on both sides of each connector without taking it apart.
#40
Pro
Thread Starter
I had to use this wiring harness to hook up my LS2 TB to my ECM:
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1087
Maybe the '09 TB is different?
I have gotten the code you mention once, it was because I forgot to plug the TB in. :embarrassed: