Last week I purchased a 99 Converrtible. My first Vette in 25 years. Man, have things changed! The drivers side door electrical is non-functional. The owner I purchased the car from stated that all driver's side door functions died suddenly. The dealer told him the door control module was defective. I have read some of the various threads on this subject, but I need help on the wiring color codes and functions. I don't think that all relays would have died at once??? I am thinking maybe the connector or wiring harness has an open in it. Could someone post the harness make-up functions and color codes. I have a manual on the way, but I would like to get started. Any help, pointers or sugestions would be a great help. I went into the DIC to see what I could see. Lots of (H) history codes for all the different sub groups. Only one had a H C listed. It was under HVAC and it was U1160. The A-0 LDCM showed "No Com" (no associated code). The A-1 RDCM showed B2253, B2283, B2285, U1255, U1064, U1016, and U1096. The A6 SCM showed U1255,U1016, U1064, and U1300. The B0-RFA showed U1096, U1064, and U1016. If I could type better, I'd list the associated fault names, but I would be here all night. There are a lot of history codes not listed here. 2 in the PCM group. Many in TCS and a few in BCM and IPC. All are history listings.
So, is it best to clear all the codes and then start up the car and see what faults show, or work from the existing data listings? Is there a way to single step through the codes? At 3 seconds apiece, I had to go through the entire listing several times to copy down this info. On to step two.

 

Start at post #640

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1568765575

 

On my own car replacing the module did fix the problems. There have been posts about how to repair the module and relays if your car is out of warranty. Also, you might want to check out the wiring that runs inside the boot from the body to the door. Some people have reported wiring breaks in that area.

 

Sounds like the accordian tube wiring to me. Read the link Lucky posted in his reply above. I had the same problem you're having and that was the fix. Cost me $6 for some electrical tape and a can of liquid electrical tape.

 

This afternoon, I checked the connectors. No corrosion (this has been an Arizona car for the last six years. No loose connections or bare wires. I wiggled both wire bundles and no response. The stereo works on the drivers side as does the door light. The seat controls work when using the controls on the seat. The Pass. door window, lock, and keyless entry work. I looked at the circuit board and could see no evidence of smoked components. (Then, again I did not expect to find any). So, I am at a loss. The three orange wires have power to them. I don't have the wiring diagram, so I can't ohm out the rest of the harness. Help!!

 

Enjoy
----------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------

 

You can swap the RDCM with the LDCM to verify. Have you checked all of the fuses yet?

 

Regarding the fuse question, I have looked at the fuse box/relay center on the pasenger side engine wheel well. Again, I do not have a diagram of the fuses and their functions, but there were no blatent blown fuses. jdl

 

Well, how bout the IP Fuse Pannel under the PS Toe Board?????????

 

The schematics are posted in this thread, and the fuse locations/descriptions are in your owners manual.

 

Thank you for the heads up. I'll shoot for this afternoon to put some time in on the project. My last Vette was a 65 fulie, and that was 25 years ago. Things have changes since that car! jdl

 

For sure...

 

Your problem is the "No Comm" error.

Trace out the serial data connection. It originates at the BCM next to the fuse panel under the passenger foot well.
If you switch modules side to side and the No Comm goes to the Right door then the module is bad. If it stays on the left door it's in the wiring.

 

jox99---I was wondering what ever happened with your door problems.

I had a problem with my driver's door not unlocking (but would always lock) when using the fob or the inside button. Turns out it was the locking circuit solenoid. I cut it open (Dremel) and used some fine emery paper on the contact points.....now works perfectly. However, in the process of monkeying around and testing the repaired board--before I put it completely together such that you're forced to install the connectors correctly due to lockout tabs---I managed to smoke a fuse in the passenger footwell fuse panel. Dumbass....I can't believe I did that! Sheeesh. I'm damn lucky that stupid mistake didn't smoke the whole $$$ board!

Incidently, I didn't bother to try and reseal the cut-open solenoid. I think it's well protected from the elements by the box that it's in when mounted to the door. And....if it should give me trouble in the future, I can quickly clean the contacts again.

 

I have not tried switching out the left and right door control modules. That is an interesting senario, although I did not realize that they can be replaced. As the driver's side has so many more inputs, I am surprized that this would be possible, or did I miss your intent? The world is currently back-ordered on Driver's side DCMs. In the mean time, I checked all fuses in both panels, and swapped relays around, but this made no difference. I am on hold waiting for a DCM. In the mean time, I have replaced the water pump and sepentine belts. The clear coat has oxidized on the hood and deck lid so I am trying to get that done at a reasonable price.

 

Tracy, et al; I did pull the dcm from the ds door and took the circuit card out to look at it. There have been posts regarding replacing the relays with like units from Digi-Key, etc. I spent my engineering career packaging electronics for defense systems. The circuit card is a double sided multi layer surface mount card, with the exception that the relays and connectors are through-hole. I'd say that there are 200 to 400 components on it with the backbone being what appears to be an epld or asic module (mini-computer of sorts). Because none of the functions work (seat memory, mirror position, key lock or window on the driver's side, I made the asumption that the module is defective. That was after I pulled the boot off the door interface, checked, unmated and mated the two connectors several times. I had the ignition key on and wrestled with the two harnesses looking for any potential shorts, but found none. The switch module is brand new. If anyone has any other trouble shooting ideas, I'll try them, but as of now, I am in the dark regarding a path forward. --John L

 

I vote bad connection in the door accordion connector. My passenger side would freak out, when it would go offline and back on all my guages would freak.
My pic, ground had intermittent faults.

 

I looked at the male and female contacts under 5 power magnification and they appeared to be in good condition. I also wiggled the s@*! out of them As I was inserting them. No Difference. Note also that I plugged them in while the ignition switch was on and the radio on. The kick panel light came on and the door speaker worked as soon as I mated the harnesses together. OBTW, I asked our local dealer (the service rep) if there was a way to functionally test the DCM by itself. His answere was no, they could only test it in the vehicle through the OBD connector. That sounds like BS to me.

 

My right window all of a sudden wouldn't roll down, just click. Replaced window motor, and then wold just roll down but not up. Tapped on module and worked for a little bit but then quit. Could the module be bad? Everything else works btw.

 

Check the wiring in the door accordion. The black one is the usual culprit; sometimes the female pins in the connector can become bent or twisted and no longer maintain constant contact.