Not exactly. You have to understand the way a lug nut works. A lug nut does not actually support the weight of a car. It applies a force to the face of a wheel in which that force is multiplied at the rear surface of the wheel to the rotor. The rear surface actually deforms a little and mechanically holds the wheel to the car, it is this force that holds the weight of the car. A shanked lug nut does the same thing on a wheel designed for them. The shank is there to center the wheel on all the studs, but the washer and head of the lug nut are what apply to force to the wheel.
What I believe happened in this case was actually something being close enough to give it the impression that it worked. The wheel was pushed all the way on and then the lugnut was tighted. Instead of the lug nut tightening against the face of the wheel it actually forced its way into the the hole of the wheel and tightened inside the hole. When this happened the "holding force" of the lug nut was not supplied to the face of the wheel forcing it against the rotor, but if appied the force across the face of the wheel. Because the lug was tight though it gave the impression the wheel were tight on the car. This is until 4000lbs set down against them and starts moving. This is when the weight of the car was now being held by the studs, they were not designed to operate like that and they broke. It is unfortunate that this happened, the customer trusted someone to install his wheels correctly and now he is left with a set of wheels that are ruined.

 

Man, just unscrew one of the other lugnuts and snap a pic. Shouldn't be very difficult to get at the problem.

 

looks like you need a shouldered lug for those wheels.

 

Incorrect, that is what caused the problem. The wheel is supposed to use the stock acorn nut, the picture you are looking at is ruined wheel that no longer has a taper in it and part of a lugnut in there.

 

How many of these wheels had this issue? Fronts only, Rears only, all 4???

 

Look at the sheared off lug. Theres still something inside the hole. It seems to be the shank portion of the shank lug pictured.

If the lug involved were the CORRECT ACORN lug nut,,when it snapped, the entire lug nut and the broken stud would have been gone. There wouldn't be any material inside the hole.

Justin

Can you post a picture of a like wheel with an unmolested lug hole?

Your explanation of the way the lugs work is right on the mark.

VETTEBA

If I were you,,,I would replace ALL of the wheel studs once this is all said and done. The rest of the studs have been stressed in the same area and even if you get the correct lug nuts on the wheels, they could pop off and damage the wheel OR cause you to have an accident.

 

bill please see all 6 pics that have been posted. one set are from the original and then other are with the new recomended acorn. the bolt has snapped in the same place?? You are correct in having all wheel bolts replaced when i find the fix to this problem. any idea how much i should be paying for a job like this? Think i paid 125ish for my right rear side having all 5 botls replaced.

 

jabbott..please do not say what is inside the wheel until you know for sure. i know the only thing inside there is a snapped wheel stud. no part of a lug nut nor washer....as a matter of fact if you are not on here to help with my problem then why do you keep posting?? everyone else on here is giving me helpful tips and ideas on how to fix and be safe. lets keep this thread posetive from now on..

 

If the lug nuts are still popping off after you switched to the Acorn style, its because the wheel studs are stressed and damaged from the original problem. Thats not GOOD. Change them!

I may have mis read (should have said mis looked) at the pictures. Its an optical illusion that theres still something in some of the holes. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Alright, this is hard to discern without virgin wheels to look at. Post pics please.

 

Its cool. Thanks for the help. I may make an appointment for sat to have all the wheel bolts replaced, unless I can buy something newer/better as an upgrade to stock. Any ideas?

 

Standard wheel studs are more than fine but,,If you want the best, get ARP Wheel studs. They make a wide selection of replacement bolts, studs and fasteners. There expensive but very strong.

BC

 

Bob,
Replacing the wheel studs is not going to fix this. You are going to have to either fix those wheels or replace them. Even putting new wheel studs is not going to fix this. Eventhough you have new acorn nuts now, the machined area in the wheel is damaged. It will keep having this issue until that problem is taken care of.

 

I just received my Chrome Spyders from west coast corvettes and they included a set of lug nuts and locks with the wheel purchase.
My car is a 98 also. I have not really looked at the lug nuts they sent me because my car has been in storage. But I am getting it out Sunday and hopefully get the everything switched over next week.
from what i have read so far about your problem is that you might have used the wrong lug nuts.
Are the acorn style tapered shank lug nuts the ones that are correct for this style rim?

Thanks,

I appreciate it and good luck with your problems.

Steve

 

If we're going to persist with this thread, could you guys please post the requested pics...

One of the lug nuts that were used first

One of a wheel that has not been damaged

 

it's like pulling teeth

 

I'm betting the mark inside the hole is where the shank on the shoulder nut dug into the rotor. In other words, he used shank lug nuts and they shank was so long it bottomed out on the rotor.

Zip is also right that the hole in the wheel appears to have suffered a lot of damage. That damaged aluminum is probably giving way and letting the nuts loosen as soon as you start to drive. A slightly loose wheel will shift around on the hub and put sideways forces on the stud breaking them off. In my opinion, you're more likely to break studs with loose nuts then with nuts a little over tightened.

It's time for your mechanic to suck it up and cover your problems. If not, then sadly it's time for a BBB complaint and small claims court.

On another note. I work for a company that sells to customers and the customer is not always right. Sometimes, they screwed up and then it becomes their problem.

Peter