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Lifter preload?

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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Default Lifter preload?

Hi All,
Can someone clear this up for me. I've spent a lot of time
searching the forum and internet and can't seem to find a good answer.
I've installed a set of 1.8 RR's with 7.400 Chromemoly PR.
Stock lifters and cam.

What is the best preload that the LS6 lifter should be set at?
Seems like everyone has there own idea from .010"-.100"
Mine are right about .100" now. My RR's seem a little noisy.
Thanks for your help
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06 4 Me
Hi All,
Can someone clear this up for me. I've spent a lot of time
searching the forum and internet and can't seem to find a good answer.
I've installed a set of 1.8 RR's with 7.400 Chromemoly PR.
Stock lifters and cam.

What is the best preload that the LS6 lifter should be set at?
Seems like everyone has there own idea from .010"-.100"
Mine are right about .100" now. My RR's seem a little noisy.
Thanks for your help
Eric D is an engineer at GM:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ic-lifter.html
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06 4 Me
Hi All,
Can someone clear this up for me. I've spent a lot of time
searching the forum and internet and can't seem to find a good answer.
I've installed a set of 1.8 RR's with 7.400 Chromemoly PR.
Stock lifters and cam.

What is the best preload that the LS6 lifter should be set at?
Seems like everyone has there own idea from .010"-.100"
Mine are right about .100" now. My RR's seem a little noisy.
Thanks for your help
I would suggest a minimum of .060" and a maximum of .100" preload. I doubt that the preload has anything to do with your noise however. What valve springs are you using? Are you sure with the 1.8 ratio rockers you are not going into coil bind? Not only will that make noise, there is a good chance of breaking a valve stem. Not a good thing at all.

1.8 ratio rockers also increase the valve closing velocity and will cause more valve closer noise in general. Other than being annoying it really doesn’t hurt anything.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric D
I would suggest a minimum of .060" and a maximum of .100" preload. I doubt that the preload has anything to do with your noise however. What valve springs are you using? Are you sure with the 1.8 ratio rockers you are not going into coil bind? Not only will that make noise, there is a good chance of breaking a valve stem. Not a good thing at all.

1.8 ratio rockers also increase the valve closing velocity and will cause more valve closer noise in general. Other than being annoying it really doesn’t hurt anything.
Thanks for the replies! As for springs I have a set of Crane Cam dual springs. I don't have the exact open and closed pressure in front of me but I know they were near stock or barely higher than stock and can handle a .650 lift.
I went with duals just for added protect in case of a spring failure I wouldn't drop a valve. So if I am right at .100 or a hair over should I just leave it?
Thanks!
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Z06 4 Me
Thanks for the replies! As for springs I have a set of Crane Cam dual springs. I don't have the exact open and closed pressure in front of me but I know they were near stock or barely higher than stock and can handle a .650 lift.
I went with duals just for added protect in case of a spring failure I wouldn't drop a valve. So if I am right at .100 or a hair over should I just leave it?
Thanks!
If it were my car I wouldn't change it as long as I was sure that the valve springs were not going into bind at max lift.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Z06 4 Me
Thanks for the replies! As for springs I have a set of Crane Cam dual springs. I don't have the exact open and closed pressure in front of me but I know they were near stock or barely higher than stock and can handle a .650 lift.
I went with duals just for added protect in case of a spring failure I wouldn't drop a valve. So if I am right at .100 or a hair over should I just leave it?
Thanks!
Not sure which Crane springs you have (832 or the later 833), but keep an eye on them when you dyno. The Crane 832's have a very strong harmonic at 6,200 RPM and it will dip your curve because they can't control the valves. Hate to tell you this if these are your springs but I found out the hard way and not many people are aware of this.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Not sure which Crane springs you have (832 or the later 833), but keep an eye on them when you dyno. The Crane 832's have a very strong harmonic at 6,200 RPM and it will dip your curve because they can't control the valves. Hate to tell you this if these are your springs but I found out the hard way and not many people are aware of this.
Thanks for the info.
I'll check which ones I have, I hope they are the good ones.
If they are the bad ones can they cause damage?

Last edited by Z06 4 Me; Apr 17, 2010 at 03:53 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric D
If it were my car I wouldn't change it as long as I was sure that the valve springs were not going into bind at max lift.
I'm pretty sure they won't bind since they are good for .650 lift.
Thanks
Reply
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Not sure which Crane springs you have (832 or the later 833), but keep an eye on them when you dyno. The Crane 832's have a very strong harmonic at 6,200 RPM and it will dip your curve because they can't control the valves. Hate to tell you this if these are your springs but I found out the hard way and not many people are aware of this.
I checked the box that my Crane Cam Springs came in. It was a kit that came with Titanium retainers, seals, clips and dual springs. The part # on the box is 144310-1
How can I tell if the springs are 832 or 833's?
Thanks!
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