LS6 Valve Spring Info?





Then the obvious side-benefit, that if the OP ever does wish to install an aftermarket cam, he's already covered, and won't have to swap the springs yet again to handle the additional lift.
Broken LS6 springs are not uncommon, even on bone stock engines that have never been abused. They may have been improved in 2004, but still, their ill-reputation for longevity, especially on cars that get tracked and/or see extended use at high RPMs, would be reason enough for me to consider a more durable alternative.
Spring failures are nothing to mess around with. If you had one fail, and it didn't drop a valve and wipe out your engine, you are lucky!
Set up correctly and used within stock engine operating parameters, the PAC 1518 is a spring the OP simply will not break. And by no means overkill even for stock cam and valvetrain.
He can pull one out in 10 years, and probably find it hasn't lost a pound of seat pressure. I sincerely doubt you can say the same about even the "new and improved" LS6 spring.
He can pull one out in 10 years, and probably find it hasn't lost a pound of seat pressure. I sincerely doubt you can say the same about even the "new and improved" LS6 spring.
And I'll be stress free driving the car knowing I've got the best solution to an all too common problem. With over 100k miles on this car I figured I'd never break a spring. Just goes to show it can happen at any time!




Then the obvious side-benefit, that if the OP ever does wish to install an aftermarket cam, he's already covered, and won't have to swap the springs yet again to handle the additional lift.
Broken LS6 springs are not uncommon, even on bone stock engines that have never been abused. They may have been improved in 2004, but still, their ill-reputation for longevity, especially on cars that get tracked and/or see extended use at high RPMs, would be reason enough for me to consider a more durable alternative.
Spring failures are nothing to mess around with. If you had one fail, and it didn't drop a valve and wipe out your engine, you are lucky!
Set up correctly and used within stock engine operating parameters, the PAC 1518 is a spring the OP simply will not break. And by no means overkill even for stock cam and valvetrain.
He can pull one out in 10 years, and probably find it hasn't lost a pound of seat pressure. I sincerely doubt you can say the same about even the "new and improved" LS6 spring.

Thanks for taking the time to put your post together and for your view on valve springs. I’ll try to share a little on this subject and if there is an interest we can deep dive even more. I will try and point out the things in your post I agree with and some things that I don’t, not necessarily my opinion, but information based on measured data.
I agree with you 100% that if the original poster has plans of going to a new cam with more than 14mm (.551”) lift in the VERY near future that going with the PAC 1518 spring might be a good choice.
Valve float occurs when the spring can no longer keep up with the rate of change of the valve going up and down. One of the main controlling factors is the spring’s natural frequency. This frequency varies based on spring compression on a conical designed spring. The data sheet for the PAC-1580 shows it to be 488Hz. The newer replacement LS6 spring is 580Hz. So, the risk of valve float with the PAC spring at a given engine rpm is greater compared to the stock spring for two reasons. One, the natural spring frequency and with the stock cam the PAC spring isn’t compressed far enough to reach the higher frequency point. It is a nice idea to plan for the future, but in the case of a valvetrain system, each component needs to be maximized for the even application for not only performance but also durability.
I won’t go into materials at this time other than to say the stock springs are made of some of the best material available and all springs are shot blast peened twice.
I believe what you referred to “pressure loss or fatigue-sagging” is controlled by what is known as a Heat Set process. The stock springs are tested and designed not to exceed more than 3% at maximum opening force for the life of the spring. Bottom-line, this really isn’t a factor of concern.
Let’s talk about valve spring durability. There are many factors that play into how long a spring will last. I would like to touch on just a one. The amount of stress on the spring plays a major roll on how many cycles it can endure before some part of the coil fails. If I spread the stress over a larger area the spring will last longer for a given number of cycles compared to the stress over a smaller area. So, the more coils I have the more area I have to distribute this stress. In the case of the stock spring I have a total of 7.2 coils compared to maybe 6 on the PAC-1580. Base on this I would expect at least a 20% advantage in durability with the stock spring compared to the PAC-1580.
I agree with your statement “Spring failures are nothing to mess around with” and I would want to do everything I can to reduce the risk of breakage. This includes sizing and selecting the spring that fits the current configuration as opposed to trying to select one for future use.
I disagree that PAC-1518 would be his best choice if he plans to stay stock for any period of time. I believe doing so increases risk for valve float and spring failure over the stock replacement.

By chance would you have those design specs of the OE (2001-2003) LS6 springs, the ones people are commonly breaking? And if so, what do you view as the cause of those failures?
I am by no means a spring engineer, I do see what is and isn't breaking for people.




By chance would you have those design specs of the OE (2001-2003) LS6 springs, the ones people are commonly breaking? And if so, what do you view as the cause of those failures?
I am by no means a spring engineer, I do see what is and isn't breaking for people.

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Thanks for taking the time to put your post together and for your view on valve springs. I’ll try to share a little on this subject and if there is an interest we can deep dive even more. I will try and point out the things in your post I agree with and some things that I don’t, not necessarily my opinion, but information based on measured data.
I agree with you 100% that if the original poster has plans of going to a new cam with more than 14mm (.551”) lift in the VERY near future that going with the PAC 1518 spring might be a good choice.
Valve float occurs when the spring can no longer keep up with the rate of change of the valve going up and down. One of the main controlling factors is the spring’s natural frequency. This frequency varies based on spring compression on a conical designed spring. The data sheet for the PAC-1580 shows it to be 488Hz. The newer replacement LS6 spring is 580Hz. So, the risk of valve float with the PAC spring at a given engine rpm is greater compared to the stock spring for two reasons. One, the natural spring frequency and with the stock cam the PAC spring isn’t compressed far enough to reach the higher frequency point. It is a nice idea to plan for the future, but in the case of a valvetrain system, each component needs to be maximized for the even application for not only performance but also durability.
I won’t go into materials at this time other than to say the stock springs are made of some of the best material available and all springs are shot blast peened twice.
I believe what you referred to “pressure loss or fatigue-sagging” is controlled by what is known as a Heat Set process. The stock springs are tested and designed not to exceed more than 3% at maximum opening force for the life of the spring. Bottom-line, this really isn’t a factor of concern.
Let’s talk about valve spring durability. There are many factors that play into how long a spring will last. I would like to touch on just a one. The amount of stress on the spring plays a major roll on how many cycles it can endure before some part of the coil fails. If I spread the stress over a larger area the spring will last longer for a given number of cycles compared to the stress over a smaller area. So, the more coils I have the more area I have to distribute this stress. In the case of the stock spring I have a total of 7.2 coils compared to maybe 6 on the PAC-1580. Base on this I would expect at least a 20% advantage in durability with the stock spring compared to the PAC-1580.
I agree with your statement “Spring failures are nothing to mess around with” and I would want to do everything I can to reduce the risk of breakage. This includes sizing and selecting the spring that fits the current configuration as opposed to trying to select one for future use.
I disagree that PAC-1518 would be his best choice if he plans to stay stock for any period of time. I believe doing so increases risk for valve float and spring failure over the stock replacement.

The LS6 spring and PAC1518 have the same number of coils. I have them both right in front of me and can assure you of this.
Harmonics will not be an issue. It is an advanced idea and definitely is something to consider in many applications, but it will not be an issue in this application at all and definitely won't cause any valve float.
Which is better for a stock application can be argued all day, and I won't get into that. All I can do is refer to experiences with the large number of applications for which we have sold both springs. We have had no problems, and that includes many people with stock LS6 engines looking to change springs after breaking a stock spring who have gone with the PAC springs.
Whatever spring the OP feels the most comfortable will suffice I am certain. If he were to call me looking for an alternative, I would never hesitate to throw the PAC springs into the running. Many people simply don't feel ok with the stock springs once they have broken one, and this is the direction we steer them in that situation. I am not saying the LS6 spring is no good, but I also feel comfortable saying there are no viable negatives to the PAC spring where I would rather run an LS6
Last edited by SDPC; May 5, 2010 at 05:22 PM.




There are NO fits all springs. If you want the best overall valvetrain performance and durability, each component has to be selected for that give application. Anything less is a compromised system.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1...eature=related
According to these guys, insufficient spring force is shown causing valve bounce/rotation when seating. If this is true, increasing the seat force while minimising the increase in open force would improve the situation (which is what the PAC 1518 would do), no?
As far as harmonics/natural frequency (the same thing in valve spring discussions AFAIK), as long as the harmonic frequency was kept above a critical level it wouldn't be an issue... correct me if I'm wrong, but the natural frequency of the spring is measured at the installed height?
I'm no valve spring "expert", but I can digest technical stuff pretty well. I hope I can learn something here - keep it comming!
EDIT: I can't bring myself to say spring "pressure"... it's a linear force measured in lbs., "pressure" has nothing to do with it.
Last edited by Blue Angel; May 5, 2010 at 09:37 PM.
20,000mi non race, just spirited street driven . TIA




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1...eature=related
According to these guys, insufficient spring force is shown causing valve bounce/rotation when seating. If this is true, increasing the seat force while minimising the increase in open force would improve the situation (which is what the PAC 1518 would do), no?
As far as harmonics/natural frequency (the same thing in valve spring discussions AFAIK), as long as the harmonic frequency was kept above a critical level it wouldn't be an issue... correct me if I'm wrong, but the natural frequency of the spring is measured at the installed height?
I'm no valve spring "expert", but I can digest technical stuff pretty well. I hope I can learn something here - keep it comming!
EDIT: I can't bring myself to say spring "pressure"... it's a linear force measured in lbs., "pressure" has nothing to do with it.
I'll cover your other question tomorrow..
I installed a set of used LS6 springs I bought for $25.00 from an individual who fell for the hype when I replaced my cam. My car gets autocrossed regularly and I'm quite happy with them.




If this is what you are referring to, there's no need for the high speed camera to see this, just compress the spring and watch the coils.

Any spring's natural frequency will increase as it is compressed. I would imagine that a progressively wound spring would give the Engineers the opportunity to "tune" the progressive end of the spring to not only offer the valve seating force required, but also introduce a second area with a natural frequency that would help cancel natural frequency oscillations in the stiffer upper portion of the spring as well.
A progressively wound spring would not offer the dual frequency cancellation effects at full lift since the progressive coils are "bound" at that point. The stiffer end of the spring would have to get by with its own single natural frequency.















