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How can you tell when the harmonic balancer is going bad? I've never had to replace one in the 45 plus cars I've owned. This is for a 2004 Corvette with the LS-1 engine, just turned 41,000 miles. It sounded like a bird chirpping every time I stepped on the accelerator and stopped as soon as I took my foot off it.
How can you tell when the harmonic balancer is going bad? I've never had to replace one in the 45 plus cars I've owned. This is for a 2004 Corvette with the LS-1 engine, just turned 41,000 miles. It sounded like a bird chirpping every time I stepped on the accelerator and stopped as soon as I took my foot off it.
Your symptom is common to balancer failure. Its either going to walk itself off the crank snub or the outer section thats bonded to the hub will start to fail and the outer section where the belt rides will wobble. Oil leaks around the crank snub are common for a walking balancer. Wobble is common as well as chirping sound if the outer section is loosening from the hub.
If the balancer looks steady with no wobbling. Check into the idler pulleys. They chirp too when failing.
My 98 is doing the same thing. the pully has a slight wobble to it. Is it safe to drive? Was hopeing to take a trip this weekend.
Personally, I wouldnt wander too far from home. Chances are youll be ok especially if you keep the revs down. Just my personal experiences that if something bad is going to happen, its at the most in opportune times. Maybe your luck is better than mine though.
Paint a white line on the front of the balancer. Make sure it marks the outer ring abd hub.. Take the car for a frisky drive. Then examine the white line. If it isnt still lined up,,,your ballancer is TOAST. Sounds like you outer ring is no longer bonded to the hub
Another reason to keep a clean engine bay is that petroleum advances the deterioration of the rubber between the hub and outer ring. Heat and oils , then add the engine torque and accessory load.
81c3 gives a good description of symptoms. Bill's painted match line will be fool proof.
Ramification of complete failure or seperation would be 'bad'.
Last edited by dieseldave56; May 6, 2010 at 04:45 AM.
awe man, he had the tires off, the rack off , there was stuff everywhere, I have a personal mechanic so he came to my house, took him two hours, $125 part and fluid, $175 labor cant beat that.
awe man, he had the tires off, the rack off , there was stuff everywhere, I have a personal mechanic so he came to my house, took him two hours, $125 part and fluid, $175 labor cant beat that.
Hmmm...hopefully your personal mechanic knew not to reuse the factory bolt, and used an ARP bolt.....and used the correct torque procedure. If not, you may be revisiting this adventure in the not to distant future.
Its a torque to yield bolt. That means it can only be stretched once. After that, the bolt cannot achieve the proper torque value again.
Very true.
OP - When you are with the rack off changing your balancer, now is the best time to add a new cam. If not now, all of that stuff has to come out again to swap cams.
[QUOTE=dieseldave56;1573985418]Another reason to keep a clean engine bay is that petroleum advances the deterioration of the rubber between the hub and outer ring. Heat and oils , then add the engine torque and accessory load.
Funny thing my car didn't make any noise until after I degreased the engine and gave it a good washing. I wonder if that had anything to do with it?
I made the trip 450 miles with no problems, I asked about the bolt, my mechanic called the GM shop, he said that they said there was no problem using the same bolt. Said if I wanted to change it out they sell the bolt about $40 ( harden steel) He also said the GM guy said some corvette owners are fanatics, lol.. yes I am