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ARP damper bolt procedure

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Old May 20, 2010 | 01:03 PM
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Default ARP damper bolt procedure

Ready to install my new ARP damper bolt. It didn't come with any instructions, but I seem to recall that the torquing sequence is not the same as the OEM bolt.

Loctite required?

Checked ARP's website and did a search here, can't find anything.

Anyone know?

Last edited by puzzleboy; May 20, 2010 at 01:09 PM.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by puzzleboy
Ready to install my new ARP damper bolt. It didn't come with any instructions, but I seem to recall that the torquing sequence is not the same as the OEM bolt.

Loctite required?

Checked ARP's website and did a search here, can't find anything.

Anyone know?
Like I stated before, most seem to just go with 240 ft lbs. I'm not sure why ARP does not specify the torque spec for this bolt on their website. Last time I had to install one, I called ARP to inquire on the torque spec, and they provided the following values:

Using their moly lube - 196 ft lbs
Using loctite - 235 ft lbs
Using 30 Wt oil - 247 ft lbs

This is after the balancer has been installed and seated per the manual.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 02:18 PM
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Most people using Loctite? I think I have some blue kicking around, not sure about red....

My service manual doesn't call for it (using the GM bolt), and the torque is similar, so not sure.....
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Old May 20, 2010 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by puzzleboy
Most people using Loctite? I think I have some blue kicking around, not sure about red....

My service manual doesn't call for it (using the GM bolt), and the torque is similar, so not sure.....
Correct, the service manual does not call for it.

It seems many do. I'm not one to follow the forum crowd, which is why I called ARP for info. Also, I pinned my balancer.

That being said, both blue and red threadlocker are adequate for the diameter of the bolt in question. Blue is removable with hand tools. Red comes in two flavors, both are high strength, and
one is formulated for high temperature. If you use red, you will have to heat the bolt to remove it in the future.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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As stated, use the ARP lube. There are a couple of guys at ARP who you used to get on the tech line but not very often now. One of them told me if he had a nickel for every time someone called and had used Loctite on their bolts and was now having issues he could have retired.

I would use the ARP Moly Lube, which is how I installed mine and what ARP recommends. To date, no issues. Then again, I measured to ensure the interference fit was within specifications.

Also, as a by the way, Loctite has a shelf life so if it is "kicking around" you should check the date. I chuck mine after two years.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 05:19 PM
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Ok, I'll bite.... what is ARP moly lube? Is it an anaerobic sealant (Loctite), or a lubricant? Don't have any, shop doesn't have any.....
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Old May 20, 2010 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by puzzleboy
Ok, I'll bite.... what is ARP moly lube? Is it an anaerobic sealant (Loctite), or a lubricant? Don't have any, shop doesn't have any.....
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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240 ft/lbs with blue Loctite it is!! Lol

Usually with blue, you can't get into too much trouble...
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by puzzleboy
240 ft/lbs with blue Loctite it is!! Lol

Usually with blue, you can't get into too much trouble...
The 240 lb-ft is based on the friction developed from their ARP lube. If you use something else, you need to correct the torque value. Fortunately, for Loctite (per ARP) you can use the same value. Just information for the future if you need it.
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