Battery (which) Replacement C5
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
From: Willie Nelson Country TX
I'm coming home for some R&R in a few weeks and want to replace my battery. Car's been sitting for the better part of 2 years now and has another (at least) to go. I've got the heavy stereo stuff too although I'm stone deaf from too many helo hours. I dread an acid leak over the brain box while it's on the trickle charger. So, which model/code of yellow top did you put in?
Padrino
Padrino
From what you say, you must be a member of our Armed Forces. If so you have my eternal gratitude and ask God to be on your shoulder.
Best & Warmest Regards,
bojangles5169
(Devout Infidel)
Last edited by bojangles5169; Aug 6, 2010 at 10:03 PM. Reason: sp correction
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 279
Likes: 20
From: Glendale Wisconsin
Hi bojangles5169, I’m glad to hear you decided to go with a YellowTop and I hope it serves you well. Given the audio modifications in your vehicle and the long periods of non-use, a battery designed for a deep-cycle application was the correct choice. Your concern about acid damaging your PCM is also valid and more likely with a flooded, “black box” battery, than an AGM battery.
LisaJohn, to answer your question, all Optima batteries are “sealed,” however, any lead-acid battery can vent gas in extreme situations (voltage regulator failure, etc…). If a lead-acid battery does vent gas, those fumes are both flammable and toxic. We know many of our customers relocate their batteries inside their passenger compartment or to their trunk, but due to the risk of venting (albeit minimal), we strongly recommend batteries in those applications be vented to the outside.
As Dave68 alluded to, many early-C5s experienced issues related to their batteries and these vehicles are known to have a parasitic draw that will discharge any battery, if left long enough in an un-maintained state. That makes a battery tender or maintainer a great investment for any vehicle that sits for extended periods of time. The key to long battery life (regardless of brand), is to always maintain at least 12.4 volts whenever possible. When batteries are allowed to discharge below that level and sit for extended periods of time, sulfation begins to diminish both performance and lifespan. I appreciate your interest in Optima batteries!
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
LisaJohn, to answer your question, all Optima batteries are “sealed,” however, any lead-acid battery can vent gas in extreme situations (voltage regulator failure, etc…). If a lead-acid battery does vent gas, those fumes are both flammable and toxic. We know many of our customers relocate their batteries inside their passenger compartment or to their trunk, but due to the risk of venting (albeit minimal), we strongly recommend batteries in those applications be vented to the outside.
As Dave68 alluded to, many early-C5s experienced issues related to their batteries and these vehicles are known to have a parasitic draw that will discharge any battery, if left long enough in an un-maintained state. That makes a battery tender or maintainer a great investment for any vehicle that sits for extended periods of time. The key to long battery life (regardless of brand), is to always maintain at least 12.4 volts whenever possible. When batteries are allowed to discharge below that level and sit for extended periods of time, sulfation begins to diminish both performance and lifespan. I appreciate your interest in Optima batteries!
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 491
Likes: 2
From: AZ
I got the WalMart battery myself. Have not had any problems with it, but if I do, I can just exchange it, no questions asked.
I would recommend upgrading the big 3. I did, and I notice it stabilized my voltage. No more dips to 13.0v. It stays around 13.7v on the DIC, and I measured 14.2v at the + battery post. Seems to start just a little easier too.
I would recommend upgrading the big 3. I did, and I notice it stabilized my voltage. No more dips to 13.0v. It stays around 13.7v on the DIC, and I measured 14.2v at the + battery post. Seems to start just a little easier too.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 491
Likes: 2
From: AZ
I'm on my 3rd battery in my 98. The OEM one was not dead but I promptly replaced because of the acid leaking issues. I used an Exide Orbital AGM model that lasted for just over 6 years of daily driven MD summer heat, winter cold and over 100k miles. I replaced it just last week with a Sears Platinum DieHard. At $180 some will say it was a waste but I justified it as:
1) It got really good marks in Cons Reports for both CCA and reserve capacity. Tested much higher than all the others.
2) Great warranty, 4 year free replacement warranty (not prorated). I intend to keep the car for at least that much longer.
3) I have extra power needs (air compressor for air horns/tire inflation) and high powered stereo.
4) Sears are everywhere in case something does go wrong.
5) Broken down by year, even if this battery lasts only 4 years the extra cost of this more expensive battery breaks down to what, $25 more per year?
1) It got really good marks in Cons Reports for both CCA and reserve capacity. Tested much higher than all the others.
2) Great warranty, 4 year free replacement warranty (not prorated). I intend to keep the car for at least that much longer.
3) I have extra power needs (air compressor for air horns/tire inflation) and high powered stereo.
4) Sears are everywhere in case something does go wrong.
5) Broken down by year, even if this battery lasts only 4 years the extra cost of this more expensive battery breaks down to what, $25 more per year?
