When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Originally Posted by 87bob
What is wrong with Edelbrock Heads?
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
There are far better heads out there as I listed.
if you have them use them, if not look at others.
Well it all depends on who ports the Edelbrocks. WCCH does some nice work with Edelbrock heads in 200cc, 215cc and 245cc
We offer them as well as AFR and TFS and TEA
Block casting is different from the and the LS1. Water jackets are different between cylinders for decreased cyl. temps. The LS1 Vettes never used the LS1 block. Oil pump is different. Exhaust is different. Intake manifold is diff. than the <2000 LS1. Cam shaft and heads are different.
So to get Z06 performance, sell your car and buy a Z06. Or swap out your heads and cam and be faster than a Z06.
Your wheelin a automatic. At best you have a 3.15 diff, probably the much more common 2.73. Talk to your tuner about gearing as well as how to make your transmission live with the extra ponies. At the very least plan to slap a big cooler on your transmission if you don't replace it with something like a RPM Level IV or V. There is a lot of performance potential in the transmission and rear end gearing.
There are far better heads out there as I listed.
if you have them use them, if not look at others.
How is the best way of doing a comparision of heads is flow numbers only or chamber size? With a stock and stroke how small of a chamber (CR) can I go to before I'm asking for detnation problems? I understand the flow numbers by lift. I also understand that too much flow hurts low end torque so where do I focus?
Remember a 215 is about as big as a 346 ci can go. and bigger does not mean better or more HP.
No, more air flow HELPS low end torque. and why the AFR 205s with a 224/228 cam, with Fast 92/92 or a LS6/TPIS90 intake/tb combo is one of the best combos for low end torque.
on a budget the the PRC LS6 Stage 2.5 CNC Ported Heads have been very successful
with low end torque needs stay with small cams. 224r 228r or smaller.
Good Luck
Last edited by AU N EGL; Aug 10, 2010 at 07:53 AM.
why don't you contact a company like Texas Speed or AFR and ask them about a head/cam package. They have already done the research and know what works.
Remember a 215 is about as big as a 346 ci can go. and bigger does not mean better or more HP.
No, more air flow HELPS low end torque. and why the AFR 205s with a 224/228 cam, with Fast 92/92 or a LS6/TPIS90 intake/tb combo is one of the best combos for low end torque.
on a budget the the PRC LS6 Stage 2.5 CNC Ported Heads have been very successful
with low end torque needs stay with small cams. 224r 228r or smaller.
Good Luck
Ok makes sense, but why do they tell you not to go to big on headers? I am told to stay in the 1-3/4 range instead of 1-7/8's If big is good why is bigger not better? I would think you would get less restriction with bigger headers.
Why a higher stall convertor is that so the motor is in it's power range before the stall occurs? I have heard to go to a 24-2500 RPM stall convertor with rear gears in the 3:73 range.
By the way thanks for trying to teach an old dawg new tricks
budget... draw a line in the sand you don't want to cross and shop accordingly. The AFR, TFS, WCCH Edelbrock will produce a quicker car even if the dyno number is the same as a lesser head.
Example for you: We did a a h/c combo for someone who already had a h/c combo.
We gave them a smaller cam, set of AFR 205 heads milled for compression. We made less peak power on the dyno, by a decent amount maybe as much as 15 hp but ran 3mph and a tenth or two quicker in the quarter...
Its all about a proper combination for the application intended.. we gained mph and loss time because we put the power band where he could use it.
Look at results not advertising numbers and look at the whole combination.
Stage 3 heads big cam and a huge stall aren't going to be street friendly for someone who is looking for good low and mid range where most of the street driving gets done and the same is true of the opposite.
There is so much more to a head than a flow bench number. In the example above the cheap set of heads outflowed the AFR's on the bench but lost in the race where it mattered.
Example for you: We did a a h/c combo for someone who already had a h/c combo.
We gave them a smaller cam, set of AFR 205 heads milled for compression. We made less peak power on the dyno, by a decent amount maybe as much as 15 hp but ran 3mph and a tenth or two quicker in the quarter...
Nice lift but could use more duration. For a NA Street Monster stay as others have said, around 224/224 or 228/228. with similar lift as what you posted. LS6 motors as some have keyed in on, are far different other than sharing the C.I.! Better cooling, better oiling ( different block) heads and cam made the power difference. Compression was bumped .5 and the cam perfectly ground to match the flow of the heads. Lightweight valves aided as well in less valvetrain mass for a faster rise in RPM ( although slight). Exhaust manifolds were higher flowing. Those mods alone are popular and regularly bring 350RWHP cars. To go more, get you a cam around the 235-240 duration and .600 lift with a 111* LSA and rod bolts and spin that biatch to 7200 and put down 450-490 hp! Obviously heads need to be your starting point and match your cam to the flow and specs of the heads.
For 400 rwhp, as you stated previous in the thread is what you were looking for..
AFR 205's and a 224/228 cam heads milled from compression is all you would need and be very happy with the results.. which will be more than 400 rwhp...
The tq curve would be the legendary table top and the peak would be about 6000-6200 rpms. It would be and excellent street combination and if the budget supports it this is the direction I would go in for what you said you wanted. Obviously you can make more power with a bigger cam and heads but its not needed to meet your goals.
I would say this if you have a 99 model and its an A4 your first thing should be a stall converter period.Secondly rod bolts, you spin that thing higher than 6500 rpms and its a matter of time before something goes boom. Third a specked cam is what you need to go with if not EPS is making some really nice cams that off the shelf are putting big numbers 400+ through locked stalled. I am making 420 N/A and 540 with a 150 shot through an A4 02 ls1. If you want the list pm me and I'll much oblige and give you the list.
Impossible to make a power guesstimate especially since you didn't even mention which cam you're going to get. With aftermarket heads and all the bolt-ons, even the wimpier "stealth" cams will still break 400rwhp easily. With a nasty cam you could see closer to mid 400s. Probably shoot for a decent, mild cam (224ish duration on a 114 LSA) and you'll probably come close to 425rwhp with all bolt-ons. Auto might lose a little more power though, not entirely sure. Make sure you are going with a higher stall as well. If you don't already have a torque converter that should be your first mod. A 3.23/3.42/3.73 rear if you don't already have one is a great one too.
I would forgo the Z06 intake (I don't remember it really being significantly different but it might be). Go with a real intake like a Vararam. Huge improvement.
Dope
Lets not mention the torque gains by going with a smaller duration cam. Like a 224/224 HP gets you there, TQ gets you there faster