Reusing stock crank pulley?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Bahama North Carolina
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
One of the better dampers and not expensive is powerbond. I would also make sure to up grade to an ARP Damper bolt. What ever bolt you get, make sure that you do NOT use the old one in the finial assy. Use the old bolt to seat the damper and then remove it.
BC
BC
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
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From: South Dakota
Don't take the chance while you have it apart.
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
You can if it's in good condition. Some after-market balancers have been known to cause timing chain damage. I can't remember which one, run a search, this has been discussed before.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
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From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
I would NOT reuse the balancer on the car now. If it is factory, it is well on its way to coming apart. Many threads on the Forum about the factory balancer delaminating. If you want to stay with the factory balancer (as opposed to an aftermarket balancer) Gene Culley has them at gmpartshouse.com for under $80 plus shipping. Get a new bolt also. I suggest the ARP bolt which is reuseable. The GM bolt is a one use "torque to yield" design. If you want to go with an aftermarket balancer, there are several good ones out there. Powerbond is a decent one at a reasonable price.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
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From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
Mostly the statement about the factory pulley coming apart without performing a visual inspection, if the rubber sleeve is not dry-roted and it still runs true, it's no worse than the day it was initially installed. I've reused mine twice without issues and have known several individuals in my club to do the same. Of course we use proper pullers and follow the service manual procedure.
There are too many questionable balancers out there causing problems with broken timing chains and walking themselves off the crank-shaft snout. I ran a search this morning and came up with dozens of threads. OEM is the way to go on this part in my opinion.
Also, I would not use a non-torque to yield fastener on this joint, it was designed that way for a reason. I know many on this forum are infatuated with using ARP re-usable fasteners for this application. They make a good product I've used them myself, but there is no technical advantage to replacing this fastener with a non-torque to yield one; on the contrary it could be detrimental. I've been bolting things toghether for nearly 35 years, I've learned the hard way on numerous occasions, if the specification calls for a torque to yield fastener, USE IT!
There are too many questionable balancers out there causing problems with broken timing chains and walking themselves off the crank-shaft snout. I ran a search this morning and came up with dozens of threads. OEM is the way to go on this part in my opinion.
Also, I would not use a non-torque to yield fastener on this joint, it was designed that way for a reason. I know many on this forum are infatuated with using ARP re-usable fasteners for this application. They make a good product I've used them myself, but there is no technical advantage to replacing this fastener with a non-torque to yield one; on the contrary it could be detrimental. I've been bolting things toghether for nearly 35 years, I've learned the hard way on numerous occasions, if the specification calls for a torque to yield fastener, USE IT!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The OEM (or any damper) can fail for numerous other reasons. My rubber isolator on my OEM damper was fine but the sealing area went south. It caused a nasty leak.
All I can say is Ive had excellent results with power-bond and the ARP fastener.
BC
All I can say is Ive had excellent results with power-bond and the ARP fastener.
BC
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
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From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
All I can say is Ive had excellent results with power-bond and the ARP fastener.
BC
I've had excellent results with OEM set-up on both of the C-5's I've owned, both were auto-crossed regularly without issues even after having re-used the OEM balancer with a new TTY fastener.
BC
I've had excellent results with OEM set-up on both of the C-5's I've owned, both were auto-crossed regularly without issues even after having re-used the OEM balancer with a new TTY fastener.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 506
From: Hilton NY
It's important to use a strong threaded rod with nut to install any damper, using the old bolt to do this can ruin the crankshaft threads so that they are too weak to hold the new damper in place. This concept is why head studs are better than head bolts, only the nut is being turned on the top of the stud, not the bolt in the aluminum block. I went with an ATI damper and ARP bolt and have had no problems for five years plus the startup squeeling from the stock iron damper is gone.