I put the simulators on. swapped out the shocks for bilstien sports. the "don't exceed 80 mph" has come back on.......any ideas ?? Do I still have to take it to a tuner?

 

Do you have F-45 or F-55 suspension?

What DTCs are you displaying?????

A TUNER can do NOTHING for you UNLESS he has a GM Tech2. The RTD information/RPO codes lives in the BCM. The only thing that can change BCM programming is a Tech II.


Read your DTCs.. and post the DTCs...

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Bill
I am printing this off asap. I will take to a more smarter guy than I. I cannot thank you enough for all you help. I know if I had to do it again, I think I would just put the correct shocks on. I will let you know how it turns out. I have swapped the shocks to the Bilstiens and added the simulators. The local Chevy dealer gave it a whirl and nothing.
Thank you again.
Jerry

 

or.... you could return the simulators and try this. It works!!

Here is a simple fix to your query. (Found it in the C5/C6 Solutions in the C5 Corvette Forum.) I replaced the shocks on my '98 C5 with a set of Sport Bilsteins and this solution WORKS! Another alternative is to replace the shocks then go to a GM dealer and have them plug into your computer and turn the F45 shock feature off. (Easy, but costly.....)

Go to Radio Shack and get the following:

4 Resistors
#271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)

Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.

Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.

Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.

Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.

 

I just installed Pfadt coilovers a week ago. This is the correct procedure that my tuner used also.

 

Learn something new here everyday - MAHALO!!!

 

Thank you so much. The word "exactly" plays the major part. Thank you again .
Jerry

 

Subscribed!!! I need to do this this weekend as my c6 z shocks are in! Any pics anybody????

 

Unfortunately I sold that I have a standard c 5 now

 

I'm changing mine out also.
I bought the 4 resistors for the shocks but I didn't think about the level sensors.
I want to remove that stuff too. Is it the same value resistors I need for their circuit?
Thanks,

 

I did these already. I think that Z06 are a breed that doesn't need them. also the 2003 has a differant set up. But if you do, Do it in the exact steps...otherwise you will have to start over (in my case more than once) I still had to find a "tech II " to change the programing.
If I had to do it all over, I would have kept looking for a good set at a salvage shop.

 

Any pics of the installed resistors? ???