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Did it separate? The hub should be bottomed out against the lower chain gear. If so, that's pretty rare. I would just replacement and you should be fine. If it is just spinning on the crank, pin it and replace the bolt and that should solve the problem.
I'm replacing my H.B. because it's sliped back toward the engine. What's going to keep the new one from doing the same thing?
It has likely separated. This is critical and needs to be addressed as soon as possible. Mine did the same thing and did considerable damage to the timing chain cover and the oil pan. Retail parts were over $1,000 to replace but thankfully I was able to find used parts here on the forum for much less. Check the face of the timing chain cover to see if there are any wear marks on it. Don't put this off or delay. Good luck with this.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Paul Wood
It has likely separated. This is critical and needs to be addressed as soon as possible. Mine did the same thing and did considerable damage to the timing chain cover and the oil pan. Retail parts were over $1,000 to replace but thankfully I was able to find used parts here on the forum for much less. Check the face of the timing chain cover to see if there are any wear marks on it. Don't put this off or delay. Good luck with this.
Good advice here.
You're going to be out for labor (unless you do it yourself) to replace it and I personally agree with what Jon at TSP said about pinning too.
I would recommend replacing the balancer with a Powerbond 25% under-drive unit and pick up a few ponies while you're at it. There are other brands out there too but I have the PB piece and am very happy with it. No matter which brand you chose (even a stocker), I would recommend pinning it.
I'm replacing my H.B. because it's slipped back toward the engine. What's going to keep the new one from doing the same thing?
The rubber which isolates and damps the pulley from the balancer hub has separated allowing the pulley to freespin and wander backward toward the engine block. There is nothing to prevent another OEM style balancer from doing the same thing..eventually.
The high-end harmonic balancers have a circlip failsafe design which prevents the pulley from wandering if the rubber separates but....they're about four times the price. You pays your money or you takes your chances....I replaced mine with a OEM style Powerbond for $98.
Last edited by Cratecruncher; Mar 31, 2011 at 05:48 PM.
My Powerbond 25% under unit with belts and bolts will be here from www.sdparts.com on Friday. This isn't a job I really want to do, so I'm going to have forum vendor TPS Motorsports take care of it on Tuesday morning. Mine has the woble, so hopefully it makes it another week without comming apart.
Are you for real? Not keyed? What in the hell were they thinking?
I just find it hard to believe that a car with a price tag that's so high has some many damn problems. Is it a common problem with these harmonic balancer's and is this something i'll have to look forward to?
And how would one go about "pinning" a new hub ?
I'm thinking something along the lines of drilling / tapping the hub and adding a set screw. Would that work if I were to dimple the crank snout so the set screw has something to sit in ?
Or do you actually drill through the hub / crank snout and drive some kind of roll pin into it ?
Are you for real? Not keyed? What in the hell were they thinking?
I just find it hard to believe that a car with a price tag that's so high has some many damn problems. Is it a common problem with these harmonic balancer's and is this something i'll have to look forward to?
And how would one go about "pinning" a new hub ?
I'm thinking something along the lines of drilling / tapping the hub and adding a set screw. Would that work if I were to dimple the crank snout so the set screw has something to sit in ?
Or do you actually drill through the hub / crank snout and drive some kind of roll pin into it ?
There are kits available specifically for this purpose. ATI makes a kit that puts a hole 90 degrees to the crank snout and you optionally install two holes on opposite sides of the crank. The ATI damper hub is keyed to correctly engage the pin, however if you want to use dual pins a second keyway must be cut into the hub. Powerbond is also keyed in a similar manner and will use the ATI pin kit.
The other type of pin kit end drills the hub and the crank snout such that the pin is installed endwise into the end of the crank snout. The drilled hole is half in the crank snout and half in the damper hub. Removal and re-alignment can be hard and if a new damper is installed new holes may have to be drilled.
I prefer the ATI approach. The ATI key is a high quality kit that includes several machined parts for installation.
Are you for real? Not keyed? What in the hell were they thinking?
I just find it hard to believe that a car with a price tag that's so high has some many damn problems. Is it a common problem with these harmonic balancer's and is this something i'll have to look forward to?
And how would one go about "pinning" a new hub ?
I'm thinking something along the lines of drilling / tapping the hub and adding a set screw. Would that work if I were to dimple the crank snout so the set screw has something to sit in ?
Or do you actually drill through the hub / crank snout and drive some kind of roll pin into it ?
Just to be clear: Pinning is extra insurance against a botched install. If the balancer is properly seated and torqued on a normally aspirated car the hub won't spin. Separation failure like the OP has occurs between the hub and pulley and pinning won't prevent that.