When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I actually just got back on it and this is what I did. I figured my air compressor didnt have the volume output to hold the valves good enough so I opted for the top dead center method and to back myself up I added the nylon cord method. How I did it was I put as much nylon cord in the spark plug hole as I could and the rotated the enging by hand until it wouldnt go anymore. I then knew the cylinder was packed so to say. I began to compress my springs and what do you know, they both released easily and I was able to continue. This method seems to work great and seems safer in my opinion!
I actually just got back on it and this is what I did. I figured my air compressor didnt have the volume output to hold the valves good enough so I opted for the top dead center method and to back myself up I added the nylon cord method. How I did it was I put as much nylon cord in the spark plug hole as I could and the rotated the enging by hand until it wouldnt go anymore. I then knew the cylinder was packed so to say. I began to compress my springs and what do you know, they both released easily and I was able to continue. This method seems to work great and seems safer in my opinion!
Excellent- glad you worked it out!
I guess this is a silly question- but do you get the rope out merely by rotating the engine the opposite way a little? Another words can you manually rotate the engine either clockwise or counterclockwise?
I actually just got back on it and this is what I did. I figured my air compressor didnt have the volume output to hold the valves good enough so I opted for the top dead center method and to back myself up I added the nylon cord method. How I did it was I put as much nylon cord in the spark plug hole as I could and the rotated the enging by hand until it wouldnt go anymore. I then knew the cylinder was packed so to say. I began to compress my springs and what do you know, they both released easily and I was able to continue. This method seems to work great and seems safer in my opinion!
I use the TDC method on the Vette but will add the rope next go around because the keepers on my AFR heads are buggers to get off. I agree with it being safer, I was working my daugter's Nissan and had to leave for about 15 minutes but left the compressor on, came back to find a nice hole where the valve used to be. Air pressure moved the piston down and so I ended up pulling the head.
So can we agree that the problem was the air compressor did not have enough volume? I have a big compressor and my valves were rock hard when I changed mine.
The rocker arms require 22foot pounds of torque - and I think you have to rotate the engine manually to a point where there is no pressure against them to torque properly.
Do you use blue loctite as well to secure the rocker arm nuts ?
Also - what kind or, and size of wrench, is best for manually turning the engine ( access looks too tight for a racket).
The rocker arms require 22foot pounds of torque - and I think you have to rotate the engine manually to a point where there is no pressure against them to torque properly.
True
Originally Posted by NatB
Do you use blue loctite as well to secure the rocker arm nuts ?
Hmmm.......Rocker arm nuts have not been used in 15 years.....
No loc tite on the rocker bolts (not nuts)
Bolts have a small head (8 mm??) Get a H/D impact socket for the rocker bolts. Otherwise you will crack your small reg socket.
Rotate motor w/a 15/16" or (24mm) - 45 degree off set box end wrench about 15" long. Standing from the passenger side to turn crank bolt (w/plugs out) The motor will turn easy using this method.
You can mark the crank w/chalk etc, to see how far you have turned it.
You can look into the plug hole to see when the piston is at the very top. You may need a flashlight & a telescoping small machanics mirror.
You can look into the plug hole to see when the piston is at the very top. You may need a flashlight & a telescoping small machanics mirror.
.....or...you can just use a compression tester in the appropriate plug hole, and watch valves as you rotate. The needle will jump as the piston approaches the top of the cylinder.
Actually with all the plugs removed I was able to grab the balancer pulley with one hand and the belt with the other and rotate it by hand. I still have not competely finished. I freakin dropped the very last keeper I had to install and I heard it hit the header and thats all. Vanished like a fart in the wind! I spent half the day looking for that damn thing. I guess I will have to buy another if I can find some. Sucks because everything was going so smooth.
No loc tite on the rocker bolts (not nuts)
Bolts have a small head (8 mm??) Get a H/D impact socket for the rocker bolts. Otherwise you will crack your small reg socket.
Rotate motor w/a 15/16" or (24mm) - 45 degree off set box end wrench about 15" long. Standing from the passenger side to turn crank bolt (w/plugs out) The motor will turn easy using this method.
You can mark the crank w/chalk etc, to see how far you have turned it.
You can look into the plug hole to see when the piston is at the very top. You may need a flashlight & a telescoping small machanics mirror.
Thanks - rocker bolts it is.
Now I have a question - are the new GM LS6 valve springs BLUE instead of Yellow? I received a set and they are BLUE.