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Battery Drain quick question

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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 03:46 PM
  #21  
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Bill, you reckon it mat be the IGN relay, I have pulled the supply fuse #16 from the block but made no difference plus I pulled the other fuses shown on the diagram but again no difference. Do I need to remove the relay itself to test and if so how is it removed?
Mike.
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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Relay pulls straight up. Its TIGHT!!!! You will have to pull and wiggle!
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 04:29 PM
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OK gone about as far as I can today, its getting late here so time to regroup. I have pulled the fuses from under the hood and the relays but absolutely no difference so now I am stumped, I was hoping it was the IGN relay as you said.
Off to a show tommorrow at Duxford air museum, parked in front of the USA museum so very appropriate but wont get time to look at the electrics tommorrow but have the day free on Monday.
Any more thoughts of where to look next would be much appreciated perhaps I am missing something simple but it is only removing fuse#47 that seems to make any difference.
Thanks again for all your help, I am sure we will get there eventually.
Mike.
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 06:32 PM
  #24  
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Try this, can't hurt: Reach under the driver's seat and unplug the electrical connector, then take your readings again.

I'm not sure if you have memory seats, but there was a TSB issued I think regarding the seat control panel/module for the seats. There are a lot or relays in it. Four or maybe 5 I think. It seems the cars with memory the seat option were the ones having the problems with a sticking relay IIRC.

I do know that electrical circuits on the C6 cars were redesigned and do NOT have all the relays like the C5s. I saw this when I was installing C6 seats in my car and I spent a lot of time going back and forth between the C5 and C6 wiring charts, etc.

Good luck.
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Old May 1, 2011 | 03:15 AM
  #25  
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Thanks for the thought but that was one of the first things I tried, firstly fulling fuses but then disconnecting both seats by pulling appart the connectors, unfortunately with no joy. The only thing so far that gives the correct readings is if I pull main fuse #47 IGN 1 but I cant seem to trace it further than that, Bill has been a real diamond with his advice and patience so hopefully when I get back to it on Monday we can bottom it out.
Mike.
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Old May 1, 2011 | 04:39 PM
  #26  
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OK the mystery starts again tommorrow as I try and find this battery drain, we are about 8 hours ahead of you in the UK so posting now will hopefully catch you in time to get some replies ready for an early start.
Please see previous replies on the thread to get an idea of where I am with this search, but basically pulling major IGN 1 fuse #47 puts the reading where it should be but pulling the realated minor fuses makes no difference, have also tried removing relays but still no joy. Just another thought does the alarm system run off #47 ? if so where should I look or how can I test for this?
Any and all ideas greatfully recieved.
Mike.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 11:30 AM
  #27  
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Spent the last few hours pulling fuses and relays but still no reduction in battery drain. As said in earlier posts the only fuse that makes any difference is the main IGN 1 #47 fuse, but pulling the assosiated fuses that feed from there give no change so all a bit confusing
With fuse 47 removed I get a 0.02-3 reading but once replaced I am back up to 0.17-22, I have checked all controls are working correctly and switched off where appropriate, disconnected everything that is accessable but no change. As asked previously where is the alarm powered from? can I disconnect it for testing purposes?if so how? plus any other ideas?
Please help
MIke.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 08:10 PM
  #28  
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What year C5 do you have and what OPTIONS do you have?? You should up date your info!



Bill
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Old May 3, 2011 | 02:57 AM
  #29  
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Hi Bill, year is 2001 and it was supplied new in the UK, I am trying to get a response from the dealership to understand why my alarm fob is different to other euro spec cars I have seen, although the alarm booklet is a GM Chevrolet and shows my fob in the illustrations. Regarding options its pretty much standard spec with avtive handling rather than adjustable suspension, HUD, both seats electric with lumbar but nothing special as far as I am aware, no changes to motor air intakes etc and no codes showing on the dash.
The alarm lost its chirp when arming or dissarming some months ago which leads me to suspect there may be a failure there, I have not had the chance to re programme it yet from the DIC to see if I can recover it but that will be my next task at the weekend, I am away in Ireland now for a few days so wont get back to the car until I return.
Will post again at the end of the week with progress or not.
Cheers
Mike.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 03:37 AM
  #30  
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I'm a little confused.
Mike has indicated that the additional drain disapears when he removes Ign1 Fuse 47. Thats a main feed to the Ignition Switch (It goes only there.) and I see three scenarios...
1. Drain is being measured without the Ignition switch being in the OFF position.
2. The Ignition Switch has an internal short.
3. Either intentionally or by accident (A short) that red 10 awg has a load attached.

Where that red wire attaches to the Ignition Switch is exactly the place an audio technician would tap for unswitched power.

One additional comment. I'm using a Fluke that gives me reasonably good resolution. For example, Stock (24.4 ma), with a 500w 5 channel Amp the total is (27.9 ma). When I have the electronics for the EFILive tuning package plugged into the OBD II port the total is (66.0 ma) which is not a good idea on a long term basis.

Goodluck
LEC
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Old May 3, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #31  
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Thanks Lec, can I get to the switch itself to test in situ or will I need to remove it, is there a connector anywhere near that can be disconnected for test purposes? I note your comment on live accessories being connected close to the switch would this include the alarm system? I have spoken with the vehicle suppliers who unfortunately have no record of this car but stated that Chevrolet would have fitted the alarm "at port of entry" so will contact Beauer Millet who are the main Chevrolet dealers in the UK.
Keep coming with ideas so I have things to try when I get back home.
Cheers
Mike.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #32  
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If you have some sort of aftermarket alarm system on the car, All bets are off as to whats causing it. Please post a picture of the FOB. I am un aware of of a Euro Difference but, Im not a EURO Expert.


There are EURO and ASIAN branch off portions of the schematic for lighting and other stuff..

LUCKY131967 and I have found numerous errors in specific year service manuals..
Not knowing your year, I was using 2002 schematics by default. They should BOTH be the same but, I will look in 2001 again tonight and see if there are any more paths to examine .

Triangle F goes to the under hood fuse box PIN A11 ,, Connector C2. I have NOT been able to find the correct matching path in the under hood fuse box schematics to figure out what that wire goes to and what is drawing current with the key OFF.. Go to that connector and pin and see whats there and where it goes!

More to come later tonight..

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 3, 2011 at 10:34 AM.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #33  
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Hi again Bill, Done some research through BM and am told the GM Chevrolet alarm was fitted to cars around that year at the port of entry by a company called ARC who unfortunately are long gone, the alarm fitted was to compliment the existing alarm to meet Thatcham 1 grade 2 requiements for the UK market.
I also enquired about an update for the computer which they can do but it involves a 400 mile round trip on top of the $150+ bill for the work,they did comment the alarm was invisible through diagnostics, I will look for a closer agent.
I am currently in Ireland so wont be able to pull fuses look at pins etc until Friday but please keep the info coming so I am well prepared for a sustained attack when I return home.
I need to get my photo of the fob on the web so I can post it as it is only on my box at present and I cant post it directly, working on it.
Cheers
Mike
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Old May 3, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #34  
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Apparantly I am not authorised to post attachments, so as a description the fob is black with white car images on buttons 1&2 which are almost square .Buttons 3&4, these are directly behind 1&2 but are elongated triangular in shape & plain black.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 05:14 PM
  #35  
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another snipit of info, aparently there is a recall outstanding on my vette #2004006 electronic column lock system, would this be worth investigating, is it fed by #47 IGN 1 ? why was the recall issued ?
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Old May 3, 2011 | 06:03 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by autocolor
another snipit of info, aparently there is a recall outstanding on my vette #2004006 electronic column lock system, would this be worth investigating, is it fed by #47 IGN 1 ? why was the recall issued ?
Sporadic steering column locks with "PULL KEY WAIT 10 MINUTES" message on DIC along with fuel pump disable.

GM really bungled the (very belated) attempts to remedy the situation. Most here, including myself have installed a CLB (Column Lock Bypass). Small, solid state and easily done. Plug-n-play. No problems since.

Very long sticky on this.

Btw, I having been mulling over something regarding your problem. Have you by chance disconnected the alternator (completely) while performing any of your current-draw tests? Just a thought mind you.

Last edited by LoneStarFRC; May 3, 2011 at 08:00 PM. Reason: typo
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Old May 3, 2011 | 07:08 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by autocolor
Apparantly I am not authorised to post attachments, so as a description the fob is black with white car images on buttons 1&2 which are almost square .Buttons 3&4, these are directly behind 1&2 but are elongated triangular in shape & plain black.
To post an attachment, you have to subscribe to a HOSTING Provider. I use PHOTOBUCKET... Its FREE for the basic service. You just UP LOAD what ever photo that your want to post to Photobucket. Then you copy the IMG Code and paste it into the post.

BAM ,,, you posting pics
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Old May 3, 2011 | 09:28 PM
  #38  
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OK,, here ya go.. The REST OF THE STORY" Start pulling fuses!!!


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Old May 4, 2011 | 06:33 AM
  #39  
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You do like to keep me busy, I have already pulled all the fuses from under the hood, but will try again with those specifically identified in your circuit diagram, do I need to pull the relays as well?
Regarding loan stsrs comment on the alternator, yes I have tested the draw as described in Bills test method, plus I have tested with the alternator totally dissconnected, no change.
Back home on Friday so will commence testing again then.
Thanks to all
Mike.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by autocolor
You do like to keep me busy, I have already pulled all the fuses from under the hood, but will try again with those specifically identified in your circuit diagram, do I need to pull the relays as well?
Regarding loan stsrs comment on the alternator, yes I have tested the draw as described in Bills test method, plus I have tested with the alternator totally dissconnected, no change.
Back home on Friday so will commence testing again then.
Thanks to all
Mike.
Ugh! The mystery deepens.
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