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I am still having issues with battery drain over relatively short periods and am about to test using the in line ammeter process, I have quickly tried this before but when connected all that happens is the relays chatter as the meter seems unable to take the load? it is set to 10amp as reccomended in the various posts I have seen.
Main question is when I reconnect the battery fully the main draw seems to be the cd changer in the boot going through the process of loading all 12 discs, is this normal? the radio and its controls are all off so is the cd player live all the time or do I have an issue here?
As always all help and comments appreciated.
Mike.
From: Richmond VA Everyone should have a VetteGuard
Others can answer more, but I know if you take out the CD cartrige and then put it back in it will run through the load cylce. That probably happens as well if complete power is removed and then reattached. Just my guess, its normal.
Disconnect the battery and use a small jumper wire to connect the battery to the battery cable. Allow the car to cycle thru its upper amperage sequence. Then connect the meter and and then remove the jumper wire. That will allow the car to remain connected and then read thru the meter once the jumper wire is removed.
You can also just leave the CD changer door open and it wont cycle.
Thanks all for the responses, I currently run a screw type dissconnect switch so I will allow the car to go through the upper amp sequence then conect the meter to either side of the switch before dissconnecting the switch, this should have the same effect as the jumper wire?
Thanks again
Mike.
Ok so the good news I managed to get some readings but unfortunately they were 10 fold what they should be, settling initially at 200 MA droping to around 150 MA after 30 minutes, I will leave things a little longer just to be sure its not just a slow shut down but there appears to be a problem, any ideas what would draw that level of amperage? I have read Bills post and will check individually but just wondered if the draw amps gave any particular clue.
MIke.
No aftermarket stuff at all but it is euro spec, (2001 with only 7K on the clock). The garage is dark so have checked all interior lights, the hood light has no bulb as I thougt originally that might be the problem. Have tried with headlights/CD stacker/alternator all dissconnected, but no difference. Best I have had is dropping to 90MA after around 30 mins but I notice there is fluctuation on the needle 10-20MA presumably as items shut down?
Typical readings after initial shutdown are 300ma start-170 after 15mins - 110 after 18 mins and finally 90ma after 30 minutes.
My gague is not the best as it has a 0-10amp range but then a gap to the 500ma range so think I will find a decent digital version tommorrow to be sure the readings are correct.
I have now moved the car outside for better access but cant seem to get it to shutdown to the MA range, definitely new gague time me thinks.
Thanks Bill
Mike.
Shot in the dark but if you have an after market H.I.D kit installed that ,might be the issue, if wired wrong even the slightest bit will drain your battery although they may work when the car is on.. GL
Well it seems the old meter was not working as it should, but the new one does not improve matters. In the middle of testing again now and have the following readings Start at 2.27 down to 0.46 within 2 mins then 0.31 at 10 mins 0.25 at 12 mins and 0.22 at 30 mins. I have pulled all the fuses under the hood with no effect, dissconnected both electric seats, both headlights, Alternator any ideas where else to look?
To test alternator I pull the connector and link from red wire on connector to field terminal on the alternator is that right?
Cheers
Mike
OK making slight headway I think, have pulled all the internal fuses as well now and got a reading drop when 5 radio cd/25 Body control Mod Inst Panel/30,33 Door control Mods were pulled but still had a reading of 0.14 so close but no cigar. Are the above linked in any way? perhaps a common relay or something . Anywhere else I can look?
MIke.
Those two fuses take a LOT of ignition switch powered things out of the equations. If this fails to provide relief,, the issue is on a HOT at all times circuit.
Didn't realize you from England. I visited Holylock and Faslane Scotland quite a few times. Beautiful country!! Almost got to visit Plymouth once but the trip got canceled.
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Apr 30, 2011 at 12:47 PM.
Thanks Bill, pulled both those fuses IGN 1&2 the large 60A ones and hey presto I have my 0.02 reading, question now is where do I go from here? presumably replace one at a time to see if one or both are causing the issue? but how do I find the culprit in the system?
By the way I am in the south of the UK between London and Cambridge, I would love to get to the states for the cars Vettes in particular I have had all models over the years except a C2 so may come a looking.
Great help, next step please.
Mike.
I have replaced main fuses as suggested and suprisingly it is fuse 47 IGN 1 that is giving the problem,but when replaced and the 4 associated fuses as on your diagram 9/10/11/15 are pulled I still have the high reading (0.17) are there any other fuses I am missing? or where else should I be looking?
Mike.