2000 Corvette ABS Module Repair Help
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 9,127
Likes: 2,326
From: Pottsville, PA. USA Home Of America's Oldest Brewery Yuengling
2000 Corvette ABS Module Repair Help
Does anybody repair the 2000 Corvette ABS module? The car has service ABS, Active Handling, Traction Control Message
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 931
Likes: 35
From: Rowlett, Texas
Up until recently - NO.
Places like ABSfixer only work on the '01 and up; they repair the EBCM (electronic portion) for apprx $150, but no one repaired the BPMV (hydraulic/motor portion).
Lately, I have seen some adds on the internet claiming to offer repair service to the EBCM for $700, but I don't think anyone on this forum has tried them. Everything on these earlier units is potted in, and difficult to service.
All that being said, the biggest problem with the 2000 is a stalled or slow pump motor (code 1243).
Pull your codes and post them, and we can help isolate your problem.
The issue with the motor occurs when age and not much use tend to gum up the pump motor, and it pulls too much current when activated.
This can burn up the relay in the EBCM over time.
No one has ever taken the motor unit apart, but we have developed a way to get to the motor power wire, and put 12V across it to "exercise" and loosen up the motor. I've been doing this periodically on my 2000 for several years.
Give us the codes, do a search on ABS, and get back to us.
DG
Places like ABSfixer only work on the '01 and up; they repair the EBCM (electronic portion) for apprx $150, but no one repaired the BPMV (hydraulic/motor portion).
Lately, I have seen some adds on the internet claiming to offer repair service to the EBCM for $700, but I don't think anyone on this forum has tried them. Everything on these earlier units is potted in, and difficult to service.
All that being said, the biggest problem with the 2000 is a stalled or slow pump motor (code 1243).
Pull your codes and post them, and we can help isolate your problem.
The issue with the motor occurs when age and not much use tend to gum up the pump motor, and it pulls too much current when activated.
This can burn up the relay in the EBCM over time.
No one has ever taken the motor unit apart, but we have developed a way to get to the motor power wire, and put 12V across it to "exercise" and loosen up the motor. I've been doing this periodically on my 2000 for several years.
Give us the codes, do a search on ABS, and get back to us.
DG
Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Tomball Texas
For what its worth my car will throw those codes when I am logging with HPtuners for some reason.. I have not figured out why yet, but I have narrowed it down to some looseness with the OBDII port. I cycle the power clear the codes and they never come back until I try to log again..
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
is your ebmc still working?
Up until recently - NO.
Places like ABSfixer only work on the '01 and up; they repair the EBCM (electronic portion) for apprx $150, but no one repaired the BPMV (hydraulic/motor portion).
Lately, I have seen some adds on the internet claiming to offer repair service to the EBCM for $700, but I don't think anyone on this forum has tried them. Everything on these earlier units is potted in, and difficult to service.
All that being said, the biggest problem with the 2000 is a stalled or slow pump motor (code 1243).
Pull your codes and post them, and we can help isolate your problem.
The issue with the motor occurs when age and not much use tend to gum up the pump motor, and it pulls too much current when activated.
This can burn up the relay in the EBCM over time.
No one has ever taken the motor unit apart, but we have developed a way to get to the motor power wire, and put 12V across it to "exercise" and loosen up the motor. I've been doing this periodically on my 2000 for several years.
Give us the codes, do a search on ABS, and get back to us.
DG
Places like ABSfixer only work on the '01 and up; they repair the EBCM (electronic portion) for apprx $150, but no one repaired the BPMV (hydraulic/motor portion).
Lately, I have seen some adds on the internet claiming to offer repair service to the EBCM for $700, but I don't think anyone on this forum has tried them. Everything on these earlier units is potted in, and difficult to service.
All that being said, the biggest problem with the 2000 is a stalled or slow pump motor (code 1243).
Pull your codes and post them, and we can help isolate your problem.
The issue with the motor occurs when age and not much use tend to gum up the pump motor, and it pulls too much current when activated.
This can burn up the relay in the EBCM over time.
No one has ever taken the motor unit apart, but we have developed a way to get to the motor power wire, and put 12V across it to "exercise" and loosen up the motor. I've been doing this periodically on my 2000 for several years.
Give us the codes, do a search on ABS, and get back to us.
DG
3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 3
Hello all, I have been working on this problem for two years. And I want to tell you no one currently is fixing them and no one knows how to ( Not even Dinos). The company who made them from mexico went out of business when GM filed for chapter 7, and GM has basically let us all out to dry. The box itself is a simple circuit box, and I am currently trying to train myself to understand it, when I get mine fixed I will post my contact info and start fixing them for everyone. Cheers
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,437
Likes: 404
From: Portland OR
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Hello all, I have been working on this problem for two years. And I want to tell you no one currently is fixing them and no one knows how to ( Not even Dinos). The company who made them from mexico went out of business when GM filed for chapter 7, and GM has basically let us all out to dry. The box itself is a simple circuit box, and I am currently trying to train myself to understand it, when I get mine fixed I will post my contact info and start fixing them for everyone. Cheers
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 647
Likes: 22
From: Norwalk CT and Boynton Beach FL
Pull codes. I got same message last week ; got code C1291, turned out rear tail lights we out --- traced that back to a blown fuse. All OK now. May not be as bad as you think. First step is to pull the codes
2nd Gear
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2000 Corvette
I have a 2000 Vette and experiencing the same exact problem you had in 2011. Did you ever get it sorted out and if so, what did you do to correct the problem?
Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 415
Likes: 19
From: Mobile Alabama
My request:
On your website you list 2000 - 2007 Corvette EBCM unit repair. Is that correct, you can repair the 2000 EBCM with active handling? Everyone else starts at 2001.
Their response:
Yes, we have had success with most of these.
You may send us your original ABS unit for repair.
When we receive your unit we will repair it and send it back to you the same day or the following morning. You may include your payment inside the package or pay online.
ABS module repair service ranges from $49 - $159 depending on the vehicle make and model. Your model would be $89 plus shipping.
$18 for ground and $33 for overnight
Click on the link below for our ABS module support page and removal instructions.
Our ABS web page: http://www.myairbags.com/abs.php
Our PayPal ID: service @myairbags.com
Send items to:
My Auto Solutions
2005 Boggs Rd
Duluth, GA 30096
Include following:
1. Your Name, Phone
2. Return Address
3. PayPal receipt, check/money order payable to My Auto Solutions
Thank you
MyAirbags Team
www.myairbags.com
678-778-8890
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As far as I know, I don't think anyone here has tried them yet. I am not having a problem, I was just looking around in case I did when I found them.
Last edited by SoAlVette; Aug 14, 2014 at 02:38 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
RONSSNOVA's post (pictures are worth a thousand words) sums it up pretty good as does " Got uid0 " post
If you have an issue with the CPU mother board "Stick a Fork In IT! It’s DONE!"
However,, That being said, there are countless OTHER than the CPU problems that can go wrong and cause the module not to work.
Read the EBTCM DTCs!!
If you have Full power into the module (there are more than one fuse that powers the EBTCM) and proper ground on the circuits, the module should have COMMS and function.
If it functions, It will be able to run the function test (at each KEY ON) and provide you DTCs on functionality of the module and sensors that feed it.
If you have a RELAY issue inside the module ( two large black squares on the secondary board) or a component problem on the secondary board, you can repair those issues. If you are missing a sensor (i.e. Wheel Speed Sensor input) the module will display a DTC for that failure.
Secondary Board Relays: One relay is the DTC 1214 internal power relay and the other is for the MAGNASTEER function/power.
Stalled motor in the BPMV. If the BPMV motor is stalled, you can use the Tech 2 and cycle the motor and for the most part, get it to free up and work. Some people had had success jacking up the rear wheels and running the wheels up to speed. The speed difference between the front and rear wheels should cause the pump to function.
Some have actually connected an external 12 VDC power supply to the contacts inside the BPMV connector and powered up the motor.
So,,, Sometimes, the ABS Fixer places can repair some issues.
IF YOU HAVE AN ISSUE WITH THE CPU,,,,,,, don’t waste your money. It just aint getting fixed.
IF YOU HAVE missing input power, you could be sending a good module in for repair and getting a bad one back! Get that meter out and start measuring.
Actually MEASURE all the power fuses that provide power to the module to chassis ground. There are TWO TEST SLOTS on top of all the fuses. Both test slots should read FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to chassis ground.
There are several POWER issues that plague our cars:
a. The fuse box prongs (inside the fuse box) that the fuse fits into spread apart and the fuse makes poor contact and you get insufficient voltage output.
b. We have TWO 12 VDC Power Supplies that feed some of our modules. One fuse is supplied by the battery buss and is HOT AT ALL TIMES.
The other fuse is supplied from a contact in the IGNITION SWITCH. If that contact is burnt, corroded, damaged; the ignition switch output can be deficient! I have see 7 VDC come out of the ignition switch when the contacts are burnt. The module WILL NOT WORK below 9.0 VDC! The ignition switch voltage should be within a few tenths of a volt with in full battery voltage. If you see a large difference, the contacts are damaged
PS!!
The IPC Analog volt meter & the Digital DIC Volt meter DO NOT display actual battery voltage. It displays voltage AFTER the ignition switch on ONE specific output of that switch.
To read actual battery voltage you need to read the battery terminals with a hand held DC Volt meter.
WHEW!
Here is a post to help you understand the ignition switch issue:
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Bill
If you have an issue with the CPU mother board "Stick a Fork In IT! It’s DONE!"
However,, That being said, there are countless OTHER than the CPU problems that can go wrong and cause the module not to work.
Read the EBTCM DTCs!!
If you have Full power into the module (there are more than one fuse that powers the EBTCM) and proper ground on the circuits, the module should have COMMS and function.
If it functions, It will be able to run the function test (at each KEY ON) and provide you DTCs on functionality of the module and sensors that feed it.
If you have a RELAY issue inside the module ( two large black squares on the secondary board) or a component problem on the secondary board, you can repair those issues. If you are missing a sensor (i.e. Wheel Speed Sensor input) the module will display a DTC for that failure.
Secondary Board Relays: One relay is the DTC 1214 internal power relay and the other is for the MAGNASTEER function/power.
Stalled motor in the BPMV. If the BPMV motor is stalled, you can use the Tech 2 and cycle the motor and for the most part, get it to free up and work. Some people had had success jacking up the rear wheels and running the wheels up to speed. The speed difference between the front and rear wheels should cause the pump to function.
Some have actually connected an external 12 VDC power supply to the contacts inside the BPMV connector and powered up the motor.
So,,, Sometimes, the ABS Fixer places can repair some issues.
IF YOU HAVE AN ISSUE WITH THE CPU,,,,,,, don’t waste your money. It just aint getting fixed.
IF YOU HAVE missing input power, you could be sending a good module in for repair and getting a bad one back! Get that meter out and start measuring.
Actually MEASURE all the power fuses that provide power to the module to chassis ground. There are TWO TEST SLOTS on top of all the fuses. Both test slots should read FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to chassis ground.
There are several POWER issues that plague our cars:
a. The fuse box prongs (inside the fuse box) that the fuse fits into spread apart and the fuse makes poor contact and you get insufficient voltage output.
b. We have TWO 12 VDC Power Supplies that feed some of our modules. One fuse is supplied by the battery buss and is HOT AT ALL TIMES.
The other fuse is supplied from a contact in the IGNITION SWITCH. If that contact is burnt, corroded, damaged; the ignition switch output can be deficient! I have see 7 VDC come out of the ignition switch when the contacts are burnt. The module WILL NOT WORK below 9.0 VDC! The ignition switch voltage should be within a few tenths of a volt with in full battery voltage. If you see a large difference, the contacts are damaged
PS!!
The IPC Analog volt meter & the Digital DIC Volt meter DO NOT display actual battery voltage. It displays voltage AFTER the ignition switch on ONE specific output of that switch.
To read actual battery voltage you need to read the battery terminals with a hand held DC Volt meter.
WHEW!
Here is a post to help you understand the ignition switch issue:
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Bill
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 132
Likes: 22
From: Eureka CA
2000 EBCM + Codes
Just received lights, codes and messages.
LIGHTS: Traction Control and ABS
MESSAGES: Service ABS, Service Traction Control and Service Active Handling
CODES: C1232 and C1255
All help appreciated.
LIGHTS: Traction Control and ABS
MESSAGES: Service ABS, Service Traction Control and Service Active Handling
CODES: C1232 and C1255
All help appreciated.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The only way you will see a C after MOST codes is if you pull them with the engine running. Most codes are set by systems only active with the engine running. TC, AH and ABS are among those that act that way. Codes that are C with the engine running get changed to H once the engine is shut OFF.
The C1214 is indicating a problem with the main power relay on the EBCM. Several things COULD be wrong. The ignition switch is not allowing sufficient voltage to reach the EBCM (C5 ignition switch problems are common. more on that below), or the grounds for the EBCM could be corroded, or battery voltage is sufficiently low to properly power the EBCM or the actual power relay on the EBCM has cold solder joints or the power relay is bad.
I would start with measuring the battery voltage (just because the car will start doesn't mean battery voltage is sufficient to properly power the C5 electronics). If it is not 12.5 or greater measured with a digital multi meter (NOT the dash gauges) you should have the battery fully charged and then have it load tested. Good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts of more measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected..
You can check the grounds pretty easily. Here are a couple links you can use to determine which grounds are for the EBCM and where they are located:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...locations.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html Post #1
You can check the ignition switch to see if is is problematic. Here is a link about how to diagnose the ignition switch:
diagnosis
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html
If the voltage at any of the fuses is more than about 0.2 volts lower than the battery voltage (measured across the battery posts with a digital multi meter) then the ignition switch needs either repair or replace.
If all of the above come up dry then you need to repair the EBCM. If you are a DIY'er here is a link on doing that yourself:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...r-fleabay.html
If you don't want to open the EBCM yourself then you can remove the EBCM and send it off to WWW.ABSFIXER.COM or search EBAY for other companies that do similar repairs.
I suggest doing things in the order above to avoid the expense of an EBCM repair only to find the problem remains after the repair.
I should also mention that codes C1287 and C1288 are indicating a problem with the steering wheel position sensor. These MAY be related to the C1214 and/or low battery voltage. I would first concentrate on the C1214 and get that issue corrected....
The C1214 is indicating a problem with the main power relay on the EBCM. Several things COULD be wrong. The ignition switch is not allowing sufficient voltage to reach the EBCM (C5 ignition switch problems are common. more on that below), or the grounds for the EBCM could be corroded, or battery voltage is sufficiently low to properly power the EBCM or the actual power relay on the EBCM has cold solder joints or the power relay is bad.
I would start with measuring the battery voltage (just because the car will start doesn't mean battery voltage is sufficient to properly power the C5 electronics). If it is not 12.5 or greater measured with a digital multi meter (NOT the dash gauges) you should have the battery fully charged and then have it load tested. Good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts of more measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected..
You can check the grounds pretty easily. Here are a couple links you can use to determine which grounds are for the EBCM and where they are located:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...locations.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html Post #1
You can check the ignition switch to see if is is problematic. Here is a link about how to diagnose the ignition switch:
diagnosis
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html
If the voltage at any of the fuses is more than about 0.2 volts lower than the battery voltage (measured across the battery posts with a digital multi meter) then the ignition switch needs either repair or replace.
If all of the above come up dry then you need to repair the EBCM. If you are a DIY'er here is a link on doing that yourself:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...r-fleabay.html
If you don't want to open the EBCM yourself then you can remove the EBCM and send it off to WWW.ABSFIXER.COM or search EBAY for other companies that do similar repairs.
I suggest doing things in the order above to avoid the expense of an EBCM repair only to find the problem remains after the repair.
I should also mention that codes C1287 and C1288 are indicating a problem with the steering wheel position sensor. These MAY be related to the C1214 and/or low battery voltage. I would first concentrate on the C1214 and get that issue corrected....
EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
Well stated!BC
