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Last summer the AC took a dump. I suspect it's just the clutch on the compressor. It started rattling but was still blowing cold. That lasted about two weeks, then one night I turned it off and the next morning, nothing. I couldn't even visually confirm the clutch engaging when AC was selected.
I know the system has a pressure switch that will cut off the system if the refrigerant level drops, but this thing was still really cold the last time it worked. I think if it was losing refrigerant I probably wouldn't get a mechanical warning (rattle) and the temp would just gradually get warmer, which it didn't.
So, since I'm broke, I'm considering just replacing the clutch, or at least verifying that the clutch is (or isn't) truly the problem.
Thoughts?
i have replaced the a/c compressor clutch (only) on a few cars (not vette)... and have seen a lot of cars where the a/c clutch went out and also caused damage to the compressor where the clutch mounts.....
make sure you are ready to do the job right.... at least the compressor has its own drive belt, so it is independent of the other front mount accessories.... (if you don't have the $$$ to fix it now)
Well crap! Just checked stuff out again and sure enough the clutch does engage. The rattle is now gone though. Go figure. But even on high, it's just blowing ambient air. If I did spring a leak, and that's what it's looking like now, it must have dumped it all in pretty short order.
But then again, I thought this had a switch for low and high head pressure. Am I wrong? I do have one three pin switch on what I think is the suction line (skinny line up by the coolant reservoir).
FWIW, the only code it throws is the ubiquitous B0361 (and frankly, I don't give two chits about that if the AC would blow cold).
the compressor needs to be removed to swap out the clutch. not only that, but it requires 2 or 3 GM specific tools to remove it. if you are removing the compressor, you may as well put a new one back in. if you heard a rattle in the past, chances are it will come back.
i had an ac clutch go out, and this is the route i took.
Anybody happen to know which compressor our cars use? Jegs sells Sanden 7176 and 508 models for $262. That's a pretty dang good deal based on what I'm getting priced at the local parts houses.
Just adding -- When you lose refrigerant, it can get colder initially. To the point where it actually freezes up. Eventually though, it doesn't cool anymore.
I know this post is old, but can someone explain why I just can't replace the clutch? I have a case of the clutch dragging on the pulley when not engaged.
I am facing this problem now, and I would really like to avoid 2500+$ to replace a completely functioning AC compressor.
You can just replace the clutch. I did it on a Cobalt that had a noisy bearing. I did have to remove the compressor from it's mount and get it on an angle so I could remove the clutch. It worked out fine since the compressor was ok otherwise. Not sure how much room there is in the Vette to do it like this.
I know this post is old, but can someone explain why I just can't replace the clutch? I have a case of the clutch dragging on the pulley when not engaged.
I am facing this problem now, and I would really like to avoid 2500+$ to replace a completely functioning AC compressor.
You can...but you need to remove the water pump and remove the compressor completely. If you are doing that much work you might as well replace the whole compressor. The parts cost is very small compared to the labor.
I you are talking about taking it to a shop to have it replaced then the new compressor is the way to go. Here's why. You need to pay labor for the mechanic to remove the water pump and then remove the compressor. Do you then want to pay that guy $100 additional labor to put $100 worth of parts on your old compressor? Wouldn't you rather spend $250-$300 on a new one with no additional labor?
Either way requires the system to be opened, new collector, orifice tube, vacuum, recharge. You are already spending for all of that you might as well get a new compressor.
I you are talking about taking it to a shop to have it replaced then the new compressor is the way to go. Here's why. You need to pay labor for the mechanic to remove the water pump and then remove the compressor. Do you then want to pay that guy $100 additional labor to put $100 worth of parts on your old compressor? Wouldn't you rather spend $250-$300 on a new one with no additional labor?
Either way requires the system to be opened, new collector, orifice tube, vacuum, recharge. You are already spending for all of that you might as well get a new compressor.
Oh, I agree, but the compressor here in canada is more like 700-800$, and the job total is going to cost me in the 2000+$. That is a lot of money for a stupid part that is worth about 100$ here.
The problem is not the pulley, its because the clutch springs are worn out and don't pull the clutch assembly far enough from the pulley, which end up rubbing together.
I was trying to see if there was a way to just pull the clutch assembly out of the compressor and put a new one, which would save a couple thousand dollars, especially since that car will likely end up as a full racing chassis in a couple years. I just want to get the AC back until then, because I love driving this thing.
There is a video where the guy suggest to simply unscrew the motor from the mounts and lift it an inch or two to remove the compressor. Maybe that would work for the pulley?
You just have to move the compressor or rack enough to get a clutch plate tool on it and pull the clutch plate off just enough it quits dragging. Fairly easy fix.