First I did a search here and found some helpful tips so I am going to look into it tonight but in the mean time I would like to see if there is something else that can be done.

I took my car to emission on Friday and was unable to complete the inspection due to the OBDII System being "Not Ready". I have changed nothing as far as mods go since I last went through emissions in 2009. I have drove 50-100 miles so far between Fridays test and today.
Mainly it looks like the O2 Sensor and EVAP System are "Not Ready". I have had dead battery issues with my Optima Red Top, it has been since been charged but im going to check if the voltage is dropping on start up causing the computer to reset. When checking the codes with a scan tool I get the P0103 code (MAF) Mas Air Flow or (VAF) Volume Air Flow Sensor - Circuit High Input. I figured anything with my MAF would of been turned off in the tune since I am running a Speed Density Tune. Not sure if that code is causing the systems to be "Not Ready" or not. It does not set a check engine light on. I did not do the tune but I do have HP Tuners on my laptop and with some good ole CorvetteForum guidance I should be able to figure out how to change a few options if that will help the systems ready.
I have to try and get this all done before the 15th since that's when my registration expires. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I attached pics of the scans.

thanks,
Brian

 

Did you clear any codes BEFORE the test?

 

No, I did not even check codes before the test. The only code that comes up on the scanner is that P0103 and even if I clear it, it comes back.

 

When did you last clear it? Anytime ANY code is cleared OR the battery is disconected ALL I/M monitors reset. EVAP test takes a long time to run and generally will not run till tank is 1/2 full or so.

 

Ya that is what I heard. I only cleared it once on Saturday. Checked it last night again but did not clear the code. I just filled the tank up too Saturday so I need to put my foot to the floor and get that mpg down to 4 so I can drain the tank quicker.

Do you know if that code would keep the systems from being ready or not?

 

Yep, it will cause the not ready. You need to now go through some number of start/warmup cycles before it'll go ready again. I don't remember the magic number of cycles though. The number 50 rings a bell but truly I'm not sure.

 

What mods do you have? The O2 test should run faily early on. Most Pxxx codes will set a Check Engine light if 2 happen.

 

Mods? Hum where to start... hahaha

408ci forged motor - Big Cam - KenneBell 2.6L - HP Tuners Speed Density tune - 102mm Throttle Body - 80# injectors - Racetronix fuel system -
SLP Long Tube headers - No Cats - Custom mid section exhaust - Modded Ti cat back.

Thats a few of the main ones

 

Front O2's may be too far downstream to pass the I/M test and what kind of emission test is it if the car has no cat's?? You think the stench alone would have failed the car.

 

O2's are fine never had a problem with the placement of them throwing codes or anything else. Have been running these headers since 04.

Its pretty smelly at times but there is no sniffer test or anything, just plug in the OBDII and if everything is good, they check the gas cap and send us on our way. Thought I was going to have problems when I got the car back from the shop in 09 but smooth sailing until this problem.

 

Wow. How can a car pass emissions with no cats? I would think it would fail based on a visual inspection alone. But, what do I know. We don't get tested here unless the car was unregistered for longer than 6 months.

 

There is usually not a visual inspection or a sniffer test in AZ. As long as the OBDII checks out ok its fine.
Now after all these people questioning it, my good fortunes will probably be jinxed. hahaha

 

Go drive the car 100 miles, then take it in for inspection

 

This is my understanding.

In Arizona you can have TWO "Not Ready's" and still pass emissions. I have passed with ONE "Not Ready" (EVAP) the last two times I've gone in. EVAP is interesting. It requires 80deg or lower ECT and IAT to run the diagnostic. Once we get to June you won't get it to show "COMPLETE".

More than likely you failed due to a DTC that is active. Are you showing a MIL? If DTC PO103 (MAF) will not stay cleared then I would say it is the cause of your problems. I would first check electrical connections and then replace it if needed. Maybe a friend that would allow you to do a temporary swap? Its indicating a frequency reading higher than its possible range.

Finally clear the PCM and go through the GM Drive Cycle again.

Good Luck
LEC

 

I am not sure exactly what a "MIL" is? My MAF should be tuned out from the speed density tune, YES/NO???
I know its not running off of MAF because it is not even plugged in. But it is still sitting in the intake tube though as to take up the correct space for my filter to be in the right spot.

 

Ok I did a battery check on start up and it dropped from 12ish volts to 10.0 volts. Is this too low. I check my average miles per gallon too and after cranking the key and starting the car it reset to 0. This sounds like it could be reseting my computer every time I start the car and clearing the ready codes. Am I right?

 

Here is the GM OBDII driving cycle that you need to perform.
Do it in the exact order as listed on this web site.
If everything on your car is good then you will pass everything.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html

One note though.... you have to have about 1/2 tank of gas or less or the EVAP test to run and read READY.

Toque

 

I'm not an expert but without the MAF plugged in, I wouldn't think its going to work at all. Worse, on the visual inspection by the smog test facility, its going to fail when they see the maf disconnected. If they look under the car, and they are required too..., it'll fail for no cats too. I'm sure there are ways to get around these things....

 

I had the same problem. Weak battery....

I ended up replacing mine because it wouldn't pass a load test. Then I put on 100 miles and then it should be good.

 

MIL=CEL (Check Engine Light), like I said earlier, 2 Pxxx codes in a row generally will set a code. Sounds like your battery may be weak.