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I myself am not technicaly qaulified to give you the entire anwser but I think that they are in some cases to tight for the valve train.....not spec'd for the valves etc????.... or maybe better said that overkill may not always be the best pratice......not saying doubles are bad but that in some cases they may be to much.....
The 1518's are a nitrited spring and will last much longer. I've had my 1521's in for 3 builds and they are still like new even running .660 cams.
... the 1218s and 1518s have the same exact dimensions and specs for spring rate/pressures. The 1518 is nitrited, and because of it, is rated to 0.650" lift instead of 0.600" lift for the 1218. The 1518s can take more abuse.
I'm almost ready to replace the OEM springs in my LS6, and have pretty much decided to go with PAC 1518s. They should be very reliable in a stock LS6.
Do you know what springs you are currently running? Reason for asking is that if currently running duals, you will need more than just springs to go to a beehive and vice versa.
Do you know what springs you are currently running? Reason for asking is that if currently running duals, you will need more than just springs to go to a beehive and vice versa.
They are whatever AFR uses on 205's. They were refreshed around 25,000 miles ago(by 1st owner) and at the same time the the AFR recall was done on the valves etc.....the gent that had this stroker built and installed at A&A is a very tech savy car guy and is the one whom advised that doubles are safer but are not compliant, so I am sure that it does not have doubles.
I would first find out what you have. You might be able to see the spring under the oil fill with a mirror and flashlight. Second, if they are the AFR springs you are going to need seats, retainers, seals, etc. to get to a beehive setup. I also think if you speak with Tomy Mamo, he will highly recommend you stick with the AFR valve springs.
As for beehives on the AFR's, that may not be a straight forward swap due to valve stem heights, valve weight, etc. I would strongly suggest contacting Tony Mamo to get input before spending any money.
Last edited by vettenuts; May 11, 2011 at 11:42 AM.
I would first find out what you have. You might be able to see the spring under the oil fill with a mirror and flashlight. Second, if they are the AFR springs you are going to need seats, retainers, seals, etc. to get to a beehive setup. I also think if you speak with Tomy Mamo, he will highly recommend you stick with the AFR valve springs.
As for beehives on the AFR's, that may not be a straight forward swap due to valve stem heights, valve weight, etc. I would strongly suggest contacting Tony Mamo to get input before spending any money.
I would first find out what you have. You might be able to see the spring under the oil fill with a mirror and flashlight. Second, if they are the AFR springs you are going to need seats, retainers, seals, etc. to get to a beehive setup. I also think if you speak with Tomy Mamo, he will highly recommend you stick with the AFR valve springs.
As for beehives on the AFR's, that may not be a straight forward swap due to valve stem heights, valve weight, etc. I would strongly suggest contacting Tony Mamo to get input before spending any money.
Thanks vettenuts!!! your were right on, I would have needed more than just springs to put beehives on these AFR's......AFR 8019's enroute.......thanks again!!!!!!!
It almost always pays off to bounce questions off the forum