Y2KDon

I have a 2000 C5 with 189K and my balancer failed...after following Ls1howto's great instructions, I'm ready to install my new Professional Products replacement balancer. Now here's my problem, the old balancer was paint marked and the new one has a keyway, which of course, the crank snout does not have....Where do I install the new balancer on the crank?...the paint marking is visible on the crank snout, but where do I line it up with the balancer?...I called PP's tech support line and was told "anywhere, the computer makes up for it"!...With as much work as is required to replace the balancer, I only want to take it apart once!!

printmanjackson

tech support line was right

zeevette

You can install it anywhere, and did you know you're about 90% labor-wise to a cam install?

vettenuts

And if you follow LS1howto for installation there is a very high likelihood of damaging the threads in the crank

Proceed at your own risk, that site has caused many damaged crank threads.

aquachuck1

Why not pin the balance now?. Suggest you put a new oil seal on the timing chain cover before you install the HB..... if that goes in the near future you will be doing all that work over again.....good luck

rustyguns

it's really not a balancer, more like a damper. that is why position is not critical

baxsom

Are you talking about the part where he says to take the old crank bolt and use it to push the balancer back on?

VET IT B

Yes. There is a balancer install tool that you will need to press it on.

vettenuts

That's part of it, also the final tightening uses a torque value that is incorrect, you need to rotate the stock bolt after an initial torque to a specified number of degrees rotation. Here is a tool I made to install that will not damage the threads, it cost less than $20. You should follow the service manual for this. I also agree with the above, you should change the front seal while the harmonic damper is out of the car.

Paul 75 L82

I bought the Hawk install tool and it worked great. Do a search on this forum and you will find it. You have to an install tool for good results.

Bill Curlee

If you install a new aftermarket damper,, it is most likely ZERO balanced. Unless you have a machine shop, match balance the new damper to the old,, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I did a power bond damper and just installed it. Had NO issues. I also pinned it to the crank.

RECOMMENDATION! You already have access to the timing chain and oil pump. Recommend installing an up graded LS2 timing chain and a new oil pump. Your chain is most likely SHOT and ready to die if it has never been changed.

A new Melling Oil Pump will do wonders for your oil pressure!!

BC

BC

ipuig

Manual transmission dampners cannot be installed anywhere on the crank pulley unless you are using a fluid style dampner.
The service manual states you must match mark the old dampner to the crank snout and install the new at the same relative location to the crank shaft snout and to transfer any balance weights that are present from the old to the new balancer.
VETTENUTS is correct, following the service manual procedure with this installation is critical. The dampner and snout are a tapered fit, they will not come apart if installed correctly to the required torque value.
Pinning the new dampner is not necessary unless you plan on installing a blower; you can do some irreversible damage to the crank shaft if you do not have the correct tools and know what you are doing.

Bill Curlee

I agree 100% BUT,,,,,,, what do you do IF,,, you install an AFTERMARKET DAMPER that does NOT have any balance marks or places to insert off set weights.

Like I stated previously, you could have the old and new balancer/damper matched and then install the matched new damper to the reference marks.

BC

ipuig

I would not use an aftermarket balancer unless it was a fluid style dampner for this application. At least one aftermarket dampner has been known to cause premature timing chain failures as a result of imbalance issues.

zeevette

I just got the correct size bolt from Fastenal in a longer length. (I think it was 135mm long) That and a couple of matching nuts/washers is all it takes to easily, and safely, re-install the dampner. Some people are strictly "by-the-book", but there's no need to waste money/time on a special tool, in this instance. As far as the ls1howto's TQ info, I thought their method was to use the original bolt, and TQ it to a certain value; then remove it, and put in the new bolt, tighten it to the same value, and then another 240 degrees? (it's been a long time, so my not be exact) This method was used by hundreds of people, and it worked great for me.

Bill Curlee

I went one route even less cash. I used an OLD Damper Bolt, removed the head and welded it to some standard ALL Thread:

SMaster

Really?

I've never read that anywhere before. When I installed mine it certainally didn't install as if anything was tapered.

Bill Curlee

The dampner and snout are a tapered fit, they will not come apart if installed correctly to the required torque value. Pinning the new dampner is not necessary unless you plan on installing a blower; you can do some irreversible damage to the crank shaft if you do not have the correct tools and know what you are doing.

" The dampner and snout are a tapered fit, they will not come apart if installed correctly to the required torque value."

ABSOLUTY NOT! THE DAMPER AND SNOUT ARE A MACHINED PRESSED FIT! Not a tapered fit!!

When you remove the damper with a three fingered puller,,,,,, its just as snug when you start as when its near the end of the crank!

If you incorrectly tighten the the bolt, the damper will spin on the crank.

If it is pinned, it wont spin it will just walk forward.

ipuig

Whether you consider the dampner to be a tapered or interference fit, the fact remains, if installed correctly IAW the service manual procedure it will not come off. I stand by my original statement with regards to pinning.

ibfuelish

Those of you searching for service manual help...I found this link to be helpful.

http://www.alldatadiy.com/index.html

It is a subscription service for technicians. Since its not actually a GM product, I'd be careful...however, the description on how to do this harmonic balancer install seems spot on per all the threads. It clearly lays out the method to torque the new bolt and to actually use the old bolt AFTER AND ONLY AFTER using the proper install tool, then installing new bolt to torque angle specs.

I am currently fighting with getting the steering gear to clear the cross member on the drivers side wheel well. And am looking for the thread that I know is in here with regards to that.

Mike