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I'n considering building a stroker 427 for my FRC. I've done some research and have noticed a lot "stroker" motors built with LQ9 / LQ4 6.0 iron blocks.
My question is can you do the same with a 6.0 aluminum block ?
You can. There used to be some concern about the sleeving process for the aluminum blocks, but those problems have been addressed. Go with a builder with a good rep and you should have no trouble. As I recall the slightly smaller 406-408 engines were a lot less in price.
Check out the thread by member WKMCD who is not running a sleeved LS2 built by Virginia Speed. Lots of good information, photos, etc. From what I understand you are much better off sleeving an LS2 block because you will get better piston support at bottom of the stroke. Its pretty much a bolt in as well since you don't have to deal with the dry sump issue either as you do with the LS7.
Check out the thread by member WKMCD who is not running a sleeved LS2 built by Virginia Speed. Lots of good information, photos, etc. From what I understand you are much better off sleeving an LS2 block because you will get better piston support at bottom of the stroke. Its pretty much a bolt in as well since you don't have to deal with the dry sump issue either as you do with the LS7.
Good idea. Does the LS3 block have the same issue? I know lots of stroker builds are using this block.
I don't believe you can bore a sleeved engine, but you can hone it. I'd give TSP a call since they do sell a 427 short or long block based off an LS3 and ask them the specifics.
The guys doing them with an iron 6.0l block are overboreing then .060"+ and running a 4.125" stroke. Not ideal as a iron block has the shortest sleeve by a small amound to it's aluminum brother and piston rock at BDC can cause problems over time. People do it all the time though, but it's hit or miss as to the longevity ov the build.
Most would only take a 6.0l aluminum ls2 block .020" over though some have gone .030" without problems. Sleeving is the best way to go bigger, but it's a decent amount out of pocket.
I would rather just buy the short block and have it shipped right to my door. It depends what your time is worth and if you have a local builder who can do sleeve work. If you have to pay for truck freight back and forth you may well just pay to have the short block shipped once.
If you buy a new block from GM, you still have to machine it. They don't come ready to assemble. It needs the full machine work. Sleeving is something special and not all machine shops can do this right.
Are you currently selling your 402?
I was about to put money into one myself lol
I don't know if I'm going to keep my 402 shortblock or not. It's only got 2500 miles on it. I'm thinking about putting it in my '07 vert when the warranty runs out.
I don't know if I'm going to keep my 402 shortblock or not. It's only got 2500 miles on it. I'm thinking about putting it in my '07 vert when the warranty runs out.
Bob K.
Damn lol, if its forged I'm sorry but Ill have to buy it