Weird Charging issue
#41
How old is the battery and when is the last time you drove the car?
What brand and model of battery?
I'd say it's safe to say the engine ground and the two wires, sense and charge, are all okay.
What brand and model of battery?
I'd say it's safe to say the engine ground and the two wires, sense and charge, are all okay.
#42
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The battery that was in it was 6 months old, this one I bought last night. Same issue.
Old one was a duralst gold, this is a autocraft gold. Old one even tested good. Measured 865 CCA at advance auto (rated for 700).
Charging system tested fine (twice).
Could it be that I am looking for something not wrong??? When you have voltage up on the DIC and press the brakes or flashers does it vary by 0.3-0.4 volts? When the AC or fan kicks in it drops even more.
Old one was a duralst gold, this is a autocraft gold. Old one even tested good. Measured 865 CCA at advance auto (rated for 700).
Charging system tested fine (twice).
Could it be that I am looking for something not wrong??? When you have voltage up on the DIC and press the brakes or flashers does it vary by 0.3-0.4 volts? When the AC or fan kicks in it drops even more.
#43
I would expect the voltage to drop when loads turn on.
If the car is starting and running fine you may be chasing after something that is not there.
Set the DIC to monitor something else for the next few weeks. You may find that you have no problems and have regained your confidence in the system.
If the car is starting and running fine you may be chasing after something that is not there.
Set the DIC to monitor something else for the next few weeks. You may find that you have no problems and have regained your confidence in the system.
#44
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I think that I am going to give that a try. It makes me nervous not having something I can compare to...
Confidence was broken when sitting on the side of the road in the pouring rain waiting for a tow truck. After that I have been paying too much attention, hopefully it is information overload. It would not be the worst thing... In the process I have learn a TON from you and Bill. (hell, i never knew how to measure diodes, now I do... LOL)
No battery charge for me for the next week or so...
I am still not going to wander out at night yet... which might actually make the girlfriend happy... for some reason, she gets worried about a recently divorced guy riding around in the evening in a Corvette... LOL (BTW, I have been a little disappointed in the "Chick magnet" factor of the Vette)
Confidence was broken when sitting on the side of the road in the pouring rain waiting for a tow truck. After that I have been paying too much attention, hopefully it is information overload. It would not be the worst thing... In the process I have learn a TON from you and Bill. (hell, i never knew how to measure diodes, now I do... LOL)
No battery charge for me for the next week or so...
I am still not going to wander out at night yet... which might actually make the girlfriend happy... for some reason, she gets worried about a recently divorced guy riding around in the evening in a Corvette... LOL (BTW, I have been a little disappointed in the "Chick magnet" factor of the Vette)
#45
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
BAD IPC meter and DIC digital volt meter voltages
Mike
I was reviewing your post and then it hit me,,, If your only seeing a problem with the DIC Volt Meter and the IPC Volt Meter read on:
This may sound weird and off the mark but,,, your DIC Volt meter and the IPC Volt Meter DO NOT read actual battery voltage... It reads the voltage that is supplied thru and by the IGNITION SWITCH.
There are 5 contacts inside the ignition switch. If there dirty /BURNT, it can and will give you insufficient voltage to the HOT in RUN & START or HOT in RUN 12 VDC busses. Ive seen it work fine one day and be bad the next. Ive seen cycling the switch fix it or cause it to fault..
If you want to eliminate that as a possible source of your issue,, heres a post on the topic and how to repair the switch:
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Give me your thoughts and let me know what you think.
Depending on what contact/s are bad,, YES it can cause your car to die..
Bill
I was reviewing your post and then it hit me,,, If your only seeing a problem with the DIC Volt Meter and the IPC Volt Meter read on:
This may sound weird and off the mark but,,, your DIC Volt meter and the IPC Volt Meter DO NOT read actual battery voltage... It reads the voltage that is supplied thru and by the IGNITION SWITCH.
There are 5 contacts inside the ignition switch. If there dirty /BURNT, it can and will give you insufficient voltage to the HOT in RUN & START or HOT in RUN 12 VDC busses. Ive seen it work fine one day and be bad the next. Ive seen cycling the switch fix it or cause it to fault..
If you want to eliminate that as a possible source of your issue,, heres a post on the topic and how to repair the switch:
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Give me your thoughts and let me know what you think.
Depending on what contact/s are bad,, YES it can cause your car to die..
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 06-02-2011 at 09:48 PM.
#47
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Bill, I will do that for sure this weekend. I thought I had read to check voltage at fuse 16 and 23 (fuse box by the battery) and if it matched the battery all was good. Regardless, it was on the eventual "to do list" anyway.
Looks like the hardest part is getting the swtich out. I have had the center console out plenty, just never had anything on the driver's side out.
Either way, I will let you folks know what I find. And again, thank you guys very much
Looks like the hardest part is getting the swtich out. I have had the center console out plenty, just never had anything on the driver's side out.
Either way, I will let you folks know what I find. And again, thank you guys very much