Hi all...

I pressed an unknown sequence of buttons on my 02 Z06 on the driver's door panel that caused the panic alarm to engage when I shut the door. I used the FOB to clear the panic alarm, but now none of the buttons on the panel work. Fuses appear to be okay. Does anyone have any idea what caused this, and what the fix is? I've searched here and didn't find anything specific to this problem.

Thanks...Scott

 

You can try a couple of things:

1 Open the door, find the rubber accordion tune between the door and door frame. Turn on the ignition switch,, press and hold the UP or DOWN button and shake the hell out of the rubber tube. If it works, you have a bad connection in the power plug!

2. Open the door. Turn on the ignition switch and press and hold the UP or down button. While the button is pressed, slam the door. If that works, you have a stuck motor armature.

3 Read and post your DTCs!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!


BC

 

Thanks for the very detailed response, I really appreciate it and will get going with this. And thanks for the info on the DTC codes, haven't been through that before (only had the car a couple of months).

 

If you have LOTS of confusing DTCs write down the LDCM & RDCM DTCs and clear ALL the DTCs. Then see what current DTCs come back. Those are the more important ones that you need to worry about.

BC

 

Here's what I've found...

Turning to ignition and shaking the hell out of the rubber boot gave me all but the window control buttons back, but I lost them again.

My DTC codes are:

10 PCM
P0133 H HO2S Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1 (dunno what this is)

60 IPC
B0521 H Tachometer Signal Circuit Malfunction
U1160 H

99 HVAC
U1160 H C

AO LDCM No Comm (this must be my culprit, but why?)

A1 RDCM
U1016 H
U1096 H

So it looks like I've lost comm with the left door control module. Is this a bad plug/connector that needs replacing, and how difficult is that?

Scott

 

Scott

Ask me how I knew this would happen???

Pop out the accordion tubes in BOTH doors (might as well do both at the same time)

Pull the connectors out of the door frame A pillar hole.

Disconnect the plugs.

Examine the plug that looks like this and look for deformed female pins, Bend the tong back up to make it have good cotntact with the male pins.



DO NOT add silicone dielectric compound to the pins.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks SOOOO much! The detailed instructions and pic will be a huge help, and I'll undertake this later today. I'm guessing you've had the problem before lol.

Thanks again, I'll post results later.

...S

 

Quote "I'm guessing you've had the problem before lol."

YOU BET YA!! And so have MANY,, MANY,, Many others

 

That did the trick, everything works fine now...

Thanks again!


Scott

 

Bud,,, You have a temporary reprieve. You need to get those door connectors squared away or your GHOST ISSUE will return! Make all the compressed female pins perfect.

BC

 

Will do, thanks again...at least now I know where the problem lies, and it's manageable.

 

Hey neighbor. I am here in Bakersfield too.

 

Howdy neighbor! Good to hear from someone local .