Is RedLine wetter water good? because forum store doesn't have Dexcool and want to combine order with thermostat.
Or should i get dexcool rather on another site? shipping for me is pretty high to Slovenia..

Edit: i just readed now.. is this only for radiator or can be put in coolant tank also?

 

as 8vette7 stated, it can be added to either water or a water/coolant mixture. I would suggest using the coolant mixture, as using water alone can be more corrosive to the coolant system. Water wetter can adhere to the walls for better heat transfer because it reduces the surface tension of the fluid.

From what I understand, water wetter does not change the freezing temperature of water, so if you ever see freezing temps in your area, you will need to have a coolant mixture.

you can add it to either the radiator or the reservoir, but I think it will mix a little faster if you put it in the radiator rather than the reservoir. it will certainly be easier to just add it to the reservoir though - thats what i would do. if you add it to the radiator, you will need to bleed the air from the coolant system again because you opened the cap.

 

You do not have to use DEXCOOL. You can use any Organic Acid Technology (OAT) coolant compatible with DEXCOOL.

Heres one GOOGLE Search result on OAT coolant with a good explanation

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/antifreeze_coolant.htm

You can GOOGLE (OAT coolant) or Organic Acid coolant for more results.

I'm very sure that you can find a compatible coolant and if you FLUSH the entire system so that it contains pure water, you can switch to a European grade OAT or HOAT coolant and it will work fine with your aluminum engine and radiator.

I always refill and mix the coolant with DISTILLED WATER.

Bill

 

We found out that fans dont come up at right time and actually, they dont even run as fast as they should, 220 degree+ water started to came out of cap, and the water blown out, steaming again.
What we 'found':

-Fans dont come up at right time, when they do, they dont run at full speed. fans were tested and they work properly,
-Head gaskets are still ok,...(my neighbour, that is helping me to figure out this problem, is a very good mechanics and his almost 99% )
-What we found and actually didnt found.... i dont know how to pronounce this item but it should go something by 'thermo switch' from my translation, item that sends alert to fans to run at right speed. where under hood is this ?
-and, is there possibility of an failure of relay at fuse box and not working properly?

 

at 220+, i dont remember what temp was before.. but could be about 230 and water was steaming.. i remember before when i could have 230+ degree and could reach 220 down in a few minutes just by slowing the car down.

but now after the first blow out everything gone wrong.

 

damn..

Yeah, im still having normal water.. its so confusing.. everyone here is telling me that straight water is alot better then coolant, that water cools..and that coolant has nothing to do with this high water temp.

still there has to be some way to cool down the water temp and not increasing while car is idling.

forgot to ask one thing.. where is the A/C fan, that you can activate inside the car? and does this really help for engine cooling?


I am very sorry for so mutch newby questions. but i really appreciate how much help i get.

 

If you still have the thermostat removed, you may see this.

 

#1 - pressure test your cooling system immediately.

#2 - 220F is not too hot. The C5 is not overheating at 220F.

#3 - The fans are slow because they are connected in series for low speed.

#4 - The fans switch to high speed at 235. The car must run at 235F MINIMUM without boiling to allow the fans to run high speed and cool it.

#5 - I believe the thermostat must be in place to properly control the flow of coolant in the engine meaning you can not run the car without a thermostat. I believe that extra disk on the thermostat closes and opens another passage in the water pump. I am not certain about this but I believe this is true.

Peter

 

Which water pump did you install? Give the specific part number if you can. Are you 100% certain it is the correct pump? Is it of good quality? I agree with doing a cooling system pressure check and also a coolant check for the presence of exhaust gases (chemical changes color if any exhaust gas is present).

I know it's a long shot, but at this point you may want to remove the pump and inspect it. Make certain the impeller is not slipping on the shaft. I would also remove the radiator and back-flush the cooling fins with a pressure washer, concentrating on the upper half of it in particular. Debris is notorious for collecting in the cooling fins in the upper 1/3 to 1/4 of the radiator.

HTH

 

Suggest running 50/50 mix coolant to water - and see whether the steaming clears up.

Makes sense to me that your water is boiling?

 

I mixed in destilated water and 1 liter of some coolant.. somekind of dexcool by GM.. i dont think its yellow, or slightly red.. its filled in some stupid bottle when you look in the bottle it looks shiny red.. ill post pics


AND.. how do i pressure test the system? :$

 

AND, A/C does not activate the fans, it does activate some ventilator under the engine.. somewhere.. but not the front ones.

after the last water steam out, its starts the message ''low coolant''

coolant reservoir is FULL, with 1 liter coolant the rest is destilated water.

 

we tested the fuse box with relays off with some wire to see if vents work, they work, is it possible that a relay failed?.. or thermoswitch failed to send info when to start up the vents?
the question is what can be else wrong to not run the vent?

fuses are OK, are maybe the relays problem? or thermoswitch? when temparatures rised vents WERE running but not at full speed when needed

also i checked a few codes..wich are :
P0410 HC- Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System
P0650 HC- Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit

does this have anything to do with this or is this another problem of its own?

 

i drove it before, about 10 milles.. parked, opened hood, i heard pressureunder the coolant,after 1 minute started to steam from coolant cap, i closed the hood and ofcourse coolant started to go out, i got my self a ride home and here i am. i called my neighbour that is helping me with this problem, hes a mechanic, he said that its probablly the worse.. head gaskets.

i want to have my car ready for summer, so i want this repaired soon.

can i get any link to a few tips or guide to changing head gaskets.. i want to help my mechanic and learn a thing or 2.



whats the avarage time to replace heads? how hard is it? what kind of gaskets should i buy besides head ones? and is there anything i should even replace since this kind of replace is being made?


thank you very mutch, this is probablly my last question and i hope there was not made any bigger damage to the engine....

 

The AC should turn on the fans when the coolant temp is above 185F or 85C and the car is going below 35mph or 56kph. The AC won't turn-on the fans when the engine is cold.

Peter

 

I think you should take a step back and start over before you go tearing heads off. You have been using a shotgun approach to this point. One liter antifreeze isn't enough. Is the thermostat installed yet? Jump the fan switch so you know they are running. Is the cap sealing? Find a pressure tester for the system. If it holds pressure, probably not head gaskets, (which is doubtful, anyway.) Did you ever remove the cap and look for bubbles, like I told you long ago?

AL

 

Agreed- back to basics IMHO. Drain out your system and refill with correct 50/50 mixture of Dexcool and water ( distilled- whatever).

Another word- go back to GM specs.

Then report back what is going on.

 

Tearing the heads off would be the last thing that I would do to fix this issue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!! You have NOT properly tested and proved the heads/gaskets bad.

SOMEONE in your country MUST have a "Coolant System Pressure Test Kit? It is nothing more than a hand operated pressure pump with a pressure gage. It is connected to a pressure cap that screws on to your coolant reservoir thru small hose. You fill the cooling system, remove the spark plugs, pressurize the cooling system to operating pressure nd see if you loose pressure and or coolant.

If you loose pressure, you can look for it in a cylinder by having someone turn the engine over and watch for coolant out of a spark plug hole or see coolant on the ground!

You MUST have proper cooling system pressure to use pure water. IF NOT,,, IT WILL BOIL! PERIOD!

USE the proper 50/50 coolant/water mix and make sure that your maintaining cooling pressures

THE FANS MUST RUN at the correct time and at the correct speeds!!!

If there not running when your see steam.escaping coolant,, something is wrong

Do you have access to an INFERRED TEMPERATURE SENSOR?????

If you can find one to use,, measure the block temps, hose temps, radiator temp when problem happens. If the temps are OVER the normal operating temps of the engine, you need to figure out what is causing the issue. You know that the engine will operate NORMALLY at 220 deg but yet you are still using water. You have NOT determined that the cooling system pressures are able to reached be maintained. ARE YOUR HOSES PRESSURIZED when you boil out the coolant???????????????

Bill

 

today i have ordered new coolant reservoir cap, since current one is bad, and a few other things like new belt, and just in case, head gaskets and valve cover gasket from gm parts house. i still need to order a new thermostat.

i will go tomorrow around the town and ask if any mechanic has pressure test.

also for 2 days now when i have my hood open and parked and pressing the gass there is somekind of sound comming out.. i think its from engine.. it sounds like air is somewhere there comingout.. very strange.

everybody said that no coolant with the water has nothing to with water steaming out. its all leading to head gaskets.. also whats the point of mixing 50/50 coolant with water right now because it will boil everything out..im sure of that!
and also.. what will happen with this when i get new reservoir cap? what will then blow off? hoses? explode the whole coolant reservoir?
Something is pushing water out something went wrong that day back. i was almost racing back home when i got my car back after water pump replaced. i opened the cap, everything fine, pure water - 230 degree.. everything fine, no problems. but that day something got burned and its probably head gaskets.
I still dont want to take these off before i try to get someone to pressure test cooling system to be sure about it.

how ever if heads are the case, how long does take to change both head gaskets?

 

i just called a local car repair and they said this is not how something its being tested (cooling system pressure test), they want me to come there and have everything checked from ventilators to thermostat(though i told him there is none thermostat inside atm..)thermoswitch.. its just stupid. i will not give them my car for them to make see how it looks and how it works, so they can figure out how mutch i have to pay for just taking a look where parts are. this is just crazy.
he said, pressure testing for cooling system does not exist.

if it even takes me to change headgaskets my own self i will do it rather then have them replaced by these local shops that repair golfs everyday and think they are gods.