Hello again.

2 days back i had replaced water pump and everything was fine.

Today i had tehnical review. When he was pressing the gas.. after 1 minute or so.. it started to steam of the hood like crazy.. i never seen something like this, temparature got quite high also.. but not at red, the cap was blown down - I HOPE its only the cap that is in bad condition....we waited a little so it cooled down. and ****inued to pass the review.. after that they got a search under hood.. wee cooled it again. refilled water. it started to boil. cooled even longer.. added water. was good for some time. i parked it out side and we were watching the coolant tank.. and it started to boil again...

And right now, i got the car driven home again, it was about 10 milles, stoped 2 times, just in case, the secound time i waited few minutes and opened the cap of coolant tank, everything was fine. When i came home, everything seemed fine but coolant was probably pushing pressure up and sounding like ''ppssssssssss'' wanted to open cap, and started to boil, water was going pushing and going up also.. so i tighten it back. after 5 minutes everything fine again. i drived home at 1k RPM all the time.

Possibility of destroyed head gaskets?



this is geting worse and worse.

 

Are you sure you removed all the air from the system after you filled it?

 

since im still learning about this car and dont want to make any mistakes on this peace of beauty i leave it to mechanics, as much as i know he did.. but i was driving it now 2 days with no problems? He tested it to and there were no problems..


but this tehical was doing high rpm.. dont know how many.. so he could test the gas coming from exhaust..

sorry my english is not the best..

 

what coolant temps were you seeing when it is boiling? it sounds to me like your coolant reservoir cap is probably bad. the cap acts as a pressure relief valve. the pressure it keeps the coolant under increases the boiling point of the coolant. if it is allowed to boil, the temperature will increase rapidly.

also make sure you run through the proper "burping" method for the coolant system.

 

Yes, you need to know the temperature. Is it actually boiling out or is combustion pressure leaking in and blowing it out. At low rpm and warm, not hot, remove the cap and look for bubbles.

 

it was on half of temp gauge or over, when we refilled water it still start to steam even if the cap was off.....

can you explaing the ''burping'' method?

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-radiator.html

post #9

 

Have your overflow tank cap checked and replaced if it test bad. If it were me, I would just replace it ith an up-graded GM Cap.


Are you POSITIVE that the air intake for the radiator is not clogged up with dirt or trash?? Look under the front of the car and into the radiator air inlet opening. If there are any leaves, trash, dirt, bags,, remove them!!

There is also a one inch space between the AC Condenser and the actual radiator. That is a prime space to collect grass and dirt. You have to remove the air bridge and the plastic cove that sits on top of the radiator:


Are your COOLING FANS running???? Turn on the AC. They should BOTH be RUNNING on FAST SPEED As the coolant temps rise, the fans should start to run and increase in speed as the temperature increases.


What DTCs do you see??


READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Heys.

Well, i was testing car yesterday just heating it up to almost half gauge temparature, didnt drive it though. nothing happened. i'll write down the codes today and see whats new.

I just hope its not the heads. no one will want to repair that. they almost didnt want to replace my waterpump.

Just by the way, i currently dont have thermostat inside. could that play role in so mutch heating?

 

Question....do you have any comments on the above post...Bill Curlee's?

 

I can't help on the heating issue,but could you please correct your vehicle description -"1998 Chevrolet Chevette" just doesn't get it.

And then read Bill Curlee's post-the answer to your problem is more than likely in there somewhere.

 

Dumb question, you mention "WATER" did you mechanic put in coolant?

 

no.. he didnt, becouse i will be adding thermostat. the one on was failed so he said he will not add this one back. i will be soon adding new thermostat, so we only use regular water now till i get it.. no coolant



I am sorry i made a mistake, i made correct edit now.

 

Well, i tryed to get the air out, it wasnt mutch air inside guss.. it started leaking in only a few secounds in each side.

I started and heated car up it came up to about 210 degree and everything was pretty fine, didnt drive it though.

only thing i dont understand right now is, when engine warms up, water/coolant rises up in coolant reservoir..Before i wasn't so attention about it.. i am worrying it will blow off the cap, or is this normal?

 

Put the thermostat in, burp it, then see what happens. Without thermostat in, the water moves through radiator too fast to cool at normal driving rpm.

 

so thats why the car probablly heated that day so mutch up? i hope i didnt burn my head gasketsthen. ill be ordering a new thermostat as soon as possible. with dexcool probablly new hoses, and most likely a new coolant reservoir. i hope this will settle everything up. and that i didnt burn head gaskets, because then im doomed.

Thanks all for the help. i really appreciate it

 

NOT TRUE. Nothing but car folklore BS.

Peter

 

You need the thermostat installed!

 

Oh OK sorry.

 

Yep!