DO TELL! Maybe I can avoid doing whatever it was that was done wrong!

That's the plan!

70psi cold? That sounds high, but to be honest I can't remember off the top of my head what my stock cold idle pressure was. Are you running 5W30? I use 10W30 and saw maybe a 1-2 psi difference, though it may just be in my head. Good to see it settles back to ~35 when hot - just what I want!

 

Well I wasn't planning to COOK the damper, just warm it up a little in the oven... when a fork comes out clean it should be ready. I was just thinking to set the oven at ~220F and leave the damper in there for a half hour or so. I wouldn't think it would hurt it? 220F is just over the temp of boiling water, a temperature I would assume the balancer would easily exceed in say a road racing application?

I figured the oven at a preset temperature would be safer than guessing with a propane torch...

The two bolt pickup tube I saw must have been an aftermarket unit.

I'll do my best to get that new thick o-ring in there without screwing it up. I may just buy an inspection mirror for this as you suggested... I've lost track of the number of times I wished I had one!

I'm planning to switch off the earth's gravity for a few minutes while installing the pickup tube bolt... that aughta keep it outa the oil pan!

I'm planning to go strap wrench shopping this weekend, then looking for a monster breaker bar as well. I saw another guy who torqued the crank bolt to spec then prior to doing the 140 degree TTY procedure, he took a protractor and a Sharpie marker and just marked the angles on the bolt and damper. I was thinking of going one further and applying small dabs of paint that would stay on permanently, then I can easily see if the bolt ever tries to come loose. I'm pinning the crank as well, so that's not likely to happen but it couldn't hurt for a quick visual check and peace of mind.

Oh, I also splurged and got the ARP head studs over just the bolts. Totally unnecessary for a pretty much stock engine, but I bet they will be a joy to use over bolts.

Also, not sure if you're aware of this (you probably are), but there's a cooland jacket plug in the block above the starter that allows draining most of the remaining coolant out of the block and heads (as very little comes out using the rad's petcock). When I pulled my pass side head off only a trickle of coolant came out, hopefully I get the same result on the driver's side head.

The coolant out of my 120k mile '02 is clear as new! I'll replace it anyway due to its age, but it's good to see there's no oil or rustiness in it.

 

Just saw this Melling Pump at Carisle in the Corvetes Of Westchester booth.



BC

 

Thanks for the pic! Mine will be here early next week!

 

"My pick up tube only had ONE bolt! ALL the C5 that I have ever worked on have only had ONE bolt."

I don't think so even my stock 98 pump has 2 bolts for the pickup screen.
And I do remember the one is a b*tch to get in with my hands.

 

My old screen had one, my new screen had one. Every one I've seen only had one.

 

Here is my thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...this-week.html

Yep 70psi cold, it does seem high to me but once warmed up 35-40psi is good to me.

The h/v pump came with a high pressure spring installed, make sure you replace it with the shorter standard pressure spring, I'm sure my oil pressure would be through the roof with the high pressure spring.

 

Bummer about the cam walking! Did you ever get it sorted out?

I'm putting in a GT11 cam from LPE and your thread got me sweating a bit, so I called them this morning to ask if they do anything special to make sure their cams stay put when building an engine. Red Locktite and 30 ft-lbs was the answer, up from the factory spec of 26 ft-lbs.

 

I used loctite but only torqued them to factory spec, I got it done a few weeks ago and have been driving it since.

no probs since I used the plate and I don't have to worry about them loosening it out so I can sleep at night