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I just wanted to verify on the correct head gasket.
My 00 LS1 is going to get 243s off of an 01 LS6. I think I can use the GM MLS style but I just wanted to make sure.
Also,
I will be using ARP head bolts. My service manual only talks about an initial torque and then a degree turns on the oem GM bolts. Are the torque values in the ls1howto for the ARP bolts accurate or will the intital torque then degree measurement valid for ARPs as well? The service manual only says to use loc tite or lube on bolts when specified. It doesn't say anything about lube on the headbolts but I have read many times to use it. Do ARP bolts go in dry or use their lube?
I just wanted to verify on the correct head gasket.
My 00 LS1 is going to get 243s off of an 01 LS6. I think I can use the GM MLS style but I just wanted to make sure.
Also,
I will be using ARP head bolts. My service manual only talks about an initial torque and then a degree turns on the oem GM bolts. Are the torque values in the ls1howto for the ARP bolts accurate or will the intital torque then degree measurement valid for ARPs as well? The service manual only says to use loc tite or lube on bolts when specified. It doesn't say anything about lube on the headbolts but I have read many times to use it. Do ARP bolts go in dry or use their lube?
Thanks
ARP has very detailed instructions and torque specs on their website.
ARP claims using their lube gives much more accurate torqueing. You get a little pack of the lube with a new set of bolts. If I remember right, you torque the head down in sequence in incremental torque steps, then back off the tension and retorque down two more times, but I would double check with the instructions. If you bought the bolts used, you can get the lube from speed shops and the instructions can be found on the ARP website by part number. Part number 134-3609.
The instructions just say tighten in 3 equal steps to 75ftlbs on the larger bolts and 22ftlbs on the smaller ones. That doesn't seem too detailed to me, which is why I asked the question here after reading on this forum that you still have to torque and then do the service manual specified degree turns on each bolt. Which brings us back to the head gasket. I read, again here on this forum, that if you have a LS1 block and are using LS6 heads you have to get specific headgaskets. Are the GM MLS gaskets the best choice?
The instructions just say tighten in 3 equal steps to 75ftlbs on the larger bolts and 22ftlbs on the smaller ones. That doesn't seem too detailed to me, which is why I asked the question here after reading on this forum that you still have to torque and then do the service manual specified degree turns on each bolt.
Other than the sequence, the procedure for ARP bolts and TTY bolts is NOT the same.
The stock GM bolts are a newer type (or at least new to me). They are called torque yield bolts, designed to give very accurate clamping torque, but part of the catch is they are also designed to stretch in a predictable manner as well, so they are only good for one use. I have heard of people getting away with resuing them, but it's not something I would try.
The instructions just say tighten in 3 equal steps to 75ftlbs on the larger bolts and 22ftlbs on the smaller ones. That doesn't seem too detailed to me
ARP website tells you exactly what to torque them to in steps and to use their lube on them for torquing. Maybe im missing something else...Nope pretty detailed if you ask me...
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Sep 15, 2011 at 12:12 PM.
ARP website tells you exactly what to torque them to in steps and to use their lube on them for torquing. Maybe im missing something else...Nope pretty detailed if you ask me...
ok if you call that detailed then ok i guess, I guess I was just expecting a little more. I would just think the heads would be torqued tighter than that.
ok if you call that detailed then ok i guess, I guess I was just expecting a little more. I would just think the heads would be torqued tighter than that.
You expected it to be more? What are you basing that from? The first pass on the M11 TTY bolts is 22 ft lbs, then degrees are counted on second and final pass. What is the final torque?
I just wanted to verify on the correct head gasket.
My 00 LS1 is going to get 243s off of an 01 LS6. I think I can use the GM MLS style but I just wanted to make sure.
Also,
I will be using ARP head bolts. My service manual only talks about an initial torque and then a degree turns on the oem GM bolts. Are the torque values in the ls1howto for the ARP bolts accurate or will the intital torque then degree measurement valid for ARPs as well? The service manual only says to use loc tite or lube on bolts when specified. It doesn't say anything about lube on the headbolts but I have read many times to use it. Do ARP bolts go in dry or use their lube?
Thanks
The design calls for the use of TTY fasteners to achieve the desired clamping force. You can either choose to follow the original design or go with the installation procedure from a vendors who's only interest is to sell you some bolts, your choice.
PS There is nothing new about TTY fasteners, they've been around for many years.
You expected it to be more? What are you basing that from? The first pass on the M11 TTY bolts is 22 ft lbs, then degrees are counted on second and final pass. What is the final torque?
service manual doesn't call for a final torque.
just final degrees.
The design calls for the use of TTY fasteners to achieve the desired clamping force. You can either choose to follow the original design or go with the installation procedure from a vendors who's only interest is to sell you some bolts, your choice.
PS There is nothing new about TTY fasteners, they've been around for many years.
yes and i choose to go the same route that millions of other people have used and go with the stronger bolt that i can reuse. the original design also called for a column lock on my steering wheel and rubber grommets in my seat track but i decided to go to a different setup in that too.
yes and i choose to go the same route that millions of other people have used and go with the stronger bolt that i can reuse. the original design also called for a column lock on my steering wheel and rubber grommets in my seat track but i decided to go to a different setup in that too.
Setting bolt preload by turning the bolt a predeterming number of degrees after seating to achieve the desired stretch is more accurate than using a torque value.
Increased bolt strength for this application serves no purposes and does not provide any increased reliability or durability over the OEM design. It's your money, you can choose to waist it if you like.
For increased clamping force required to support the higher firing pressures for high boost applications, GM chose to add an additional two bolts per cyliner on the LSX blocks.
Using column lock failures to to justify purchasing the non OEM bolts is ignorant at best. Good luck with you project.