Speedway1

I thought the threads for the sensor were in the block not the vally cover. I will see if it will come off though thanks.

4SFED Z

Take a drill and drill a hole big enough to get a screw driver in. Do the same to the other side.

Place a screwdriver in each hole and turn it to get it out. As you turn it, you may have to have someone pull on the top of it to apply pressure (if threads are stripped)


4SFED Z

Quicksilver Vert 01

You are right! They ARE threaded into the block.

The shop manual shows 2 raised pedestals, cast into the lifter galley on the block, that line up with the knock sensor cavities in the valley cover.

Speedway1

NEW BIGGER PROBLEM.Sensor came out but it or I Broke the raised pedestal!!! Broke enough that cant rethread it. Are these pedestals pressed in or cast in the block? Can the pedestal be replaced some how? This just keeps getting better and better!

Speedway1

I drilled out the center. tried an easy out. BIG mistake! IT broke the pedestal the sensor mounts in. Too mush to rethread. IS this made into the block or pressed in. Wow cant believe this. IF its made into the black what then? Weld???? Some sort of Super aluminum glue????????

Gideon's_Test

Is a helicoil an option? Sorry for your difficulties with this!

Quicksilver Vert 01

OK, just walk away from it now to collect your thoughts. The pedestal was probably already broken. As you said earlier, the whole sensor body was turning when you first tried to remove it.

Aluminum CAN be welded with the right equipment. Bill Curlee had the starter mounting area on his engine block successfully welded. Hopefully he will chime back in on this, and offer you some good advice.

Speedway1

Heli coil not an option. IT broke almost in half so one side is open almost.NO way to thread it. OK IM walking away. Might help this pit in my stomach. thanks

Eric D

Just replace the valley cover with a new or used one. The part # 12577927.

Speedway1

That would be great if it would work. THe valley cover does not hold the sensor the block does. Thanks anyway I wish it was that simple.

lucky131969

You broke the block??

dougbfresh

Maybe an option?

http://aluminumrepair.com/land/index...FQLBKgodkQ0vhQ

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video/ThreadRepair.html

Eric D

Hmm, I should have read the thread a little more careful... Well, there is no reason why it couldn't be tig welded as a last resort.

lucky131969

Eric,
After looking at some pics, it appears the bosses for the KS are machined, or some type of secondary operation. Do you know if they are pressed in?

Eric D

I don't think they are pressed in, and it might not help the original poster soon enough, but I can find out for sure next Monday. I know that LS3 and other later blocks it is a machined surface on the side of the block. I expect it is on the LS1 too. Knock sensors really need a solid mounting for proper frequency band width.

If it broke a chunk out from the mounting boss and it was my engine, I'd tig weld the area back up. It really isn't that hard to do and with the tig the heat could be kept very localized.

Speedway1

I got the SEnsor to catch some threads and maybe got it close to 8-10 lbs torque no more. Not sure what you are talking about when you talk about band width. After I got the car back together my check engine light was still on and did not go out after about a minute idle.Codes indicated a history not current code. I deleted the code and will see if it reapears after the car is driven SAT. I hope because the sensor does not have all its threads the light stays out. IF it comes back on Its time to tig weld and rethread. Thanks all for help.

Speedway1

IF you can find out if it is pressed in that would be helpful. IF it is maybe it can be replaced somehow. THanks

Eric D

You maybe ok. Glad to hear you got it back together.

Bill Curlee

The mounting boss is part of the block.

YES,, it can be TIG WELDED!!! You will use 4340 Tig rod and a high frequency Tig welder. It will need to be welded at 200-240 amps as my starter boss needed 180-190 amps AC. My buddy Charlie just happened to have the very welder that I needed!!

After looking back,,Its really NOT a complicated process. The right tools and skills and it will be as good as new

REMEMBER!! Anytime you weld on a car... DISCONNECT the battery!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill

Eric D

There are only two welders I would consider to repair a LS block. They are the Miller Dynasty or the Miller Aerowave. Both are designed with aluminum alloys in mind. A very skilled welder can use other machines, like the syncrowave, but someone like me that can weld but doesn't do it enough to be super at it, can fake my way by using a better unit to weld with. The frequency that Bill spoke of controls the arc cone size. The higher the frequency to tighter the arc cone keeping the heat area smaller. As Bill suggested you want to disconnect the battery and ground the welder as close to the weld location as possible.

With some luck the partial thread attachment will work with the OP knock sensor and no welding will be needed.