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Rear wheel Lug studs keep breaking?!?!

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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 12:34 PM
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Default Rear wheel Lug studs keep breaking?!?!

2001 coupe.

just wondering, has anyone ever had a problems with lug studs breaking?

about 8 months ago, i had three break on the right rear wheel...

then this AM i had 2 break on the rear left...

just wondering if whoever put the last wheels on maybe over tightened them? or is it because i put my foot down so much that the TQ of the car can break them?

maybe cause they are 10 years old?

Thank you!
Matt
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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are you using any spacers?
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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Nopers.

Just stock size black zr1 replicas rims and mich as sport ZP.

and i lowered it on stock bolts
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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you're overtorqimg them
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 01:02 PM
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i have tq'd them. last time was a tire place putting on new tires..
so basiclly your saying they just over tq'd them? that simple eh?

Edit: know the rec lb for tq'ing them?
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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100 ft lbs is standard. Some after market wheels/rotors may require less...
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 01:46 PM
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You should really take a close look at the wheels where the surface that contacts the hub is. I have the ZR1 replica wheels from TireRack. I had to send one of the wheels back because the surface of the wheel that contacts the hub near the stud was ground off enough there was about .175” clearance when all 4 other surfaces were in contact with the hub.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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Maybe the installer didn't remove the internal tooth oem rotor retainer clips?

There's usually one or two per wheel. Many after market wheels don't have a machined recessed area to allow for the retainers to remain in place as do the oem wheels. It's usually recommended to remove the clips. That could allow the wheel to sit off the hub slightly...

From the CCW website...


Last edited by hotwheels57; Dec 15, 2011 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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I use anti seize and torque to 95 ft-lbs, never broke a stud in the hundreds of R compound autocrosses the car had been in.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 04:05 PM
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Gota be to tight!
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by alextz
I use anti seize and torque to 95 ft-lbs, never broke a stud in the hundreds of R compound autocrosses the car had been in.
What's the reduction in required torque when using anti-seize? I'd think it would be more than 5% like you're using. Even though you've never broken a stud, you could still be over stretching them.

The spec is 100 ft-lbs with dry threads. Using any kind of lube on the threads will change the required torque to achieve the same pre-load on the studs. Torquing to 100 ft-lbs with lube on the thread will be over stressing the studs.

Last edited by ZeeOSix; Dec 15, 2011 at 04:14 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 04:11 PM
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As an alternative if you are OK on all the other items mentioned in previous posts. Swap out to ARP high strength studs. There has to be some reason you are snapping studs, the stock ones are more than adequate for most applications.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CHJ In Virginia
As an alternative if you are OK on all the other items mentioned in previous posts. Swap out to ARP high strength studs. There has to be some reason you are snapping studs, the stock ones are more than adequate for most applications.



In 41 years of car ownership, I've never broken a lug stud.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 10:17 PM
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Look for something preventing the wheel from seating properly such as a rotor retainer clip. I had a lug stud that would continuously break every two months. Same position on same wheel. Turned out there was a burr on the wheel bearing hub that prevented the wheel from seating properly. Even though I torqued the wheels properly the wheel would move some under the loads seen on the track and when I tried to remove the nut it would jam and the stud would eventually break. I hit the burr with a file and the problem went away.

Bill
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 10:59 PM
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Some shops use an impact wrench, DO NOT LET THEM DO THAT.

Shop torqued mine line crazy that it was hard with a breaker bar!!
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 03:37 PM
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Are your lug nuts open ended or closed?
If their closed you may be bottoming the nut on the stud before clamping the wheel.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TriplBlk
Some shops use an impact wrench, DO NOT LET THEM DO THAT.

Shop torqued mine line crazy that it was hard with a breaker bar!!
I use an impact gun at home all the time to swap tires for the track and I have never broken a wheel stud. We have a race car and we use the impact to put the wheels on and never broke a stud.

I would say it is a spacer issue or something else.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by corvettebob1
Are your lug nuts open ended or closed?
If their closed you may be bottoming the nut on the stud before clamping the wheel.
I agree


I will use an impact wrench to about 80 lb ft, then by hand to 100
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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Be sure that the angle of the taper on the lug nut matches the taper of the stud hole in the wheel. My brother once bought a set of chrome swap meet lug nuts that seemed fine. But when he had heavy load in the bed of his pickup they would loosen and snap the studs. This happened twice before we realized the cause of the problem.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by chaase
I use an impact gun at home all the time to swap tires for the track and I have never broken a wheel stud. We have a race car and we use the impact to put the wheels on and never broke a stud.

I would say it is a spacer issue or something else.
Depends on how much the impact can do. yea if you have torque limit drivers but if not you can seriously drive them on. Thats what happened to me.
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