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just wondering, has anyone ever had a problems with lug studs breaking?
about 8 months ago, i had three break on the right rear wheel...
then this AM i had 2 break on the rear left...
just wondering if whoever put the last wheels on maybe over tightened them? or is it because i put my foot down so much that the TQ of the car can break them?
You should really take a close look at the wheels where the surface that contacts the hub is. I have the ZR1 replica wheels from TireRack. I had to send one of the wheels back because the surface of the wheel that contacts the hub near the stud was ground off enough there was about .175” clearance when all 4 other surfaces were in contact with the hub.
Maybe the installer didn't remove the internal tooth oem rotor retainer clips?
There's usually one or two per wheel. Many after market wheels don't have a machined recessed area to allow for the retainers to remain in place as do the oem wheels. It's usually recommended to remove the clips. That could allow the wheel to sit off the hub slightly...
From the CCW website...
Last edited by hotwheels57; Dec 15, 2011 at 02:54 PM.
I use anti seize and torque to 95 ft-lbs, never broke a stud in the hundreds of R compound autocrosses the car had been in.
What's the reduction in required torque when using anti-seize? I'd think it would be more than 5% like you're using. Even though you've never broken a stud, you could still be over stretching them.
The spec is 100 ft-lbs with dry threads. Using any kind of lube on the threads will change the required torque to achieve the same pre-load on the studs. Torquing to 100 ft-lbs with lube on the thread will be over stressing the studs.
As an alternative if you are OK on all the other items mentioned in previous posts. Swap out to ARP high strength studs. There has to be some reason you are snapping studs, the stock ones are more than adequate for most applications.
As an alternative if you are OK on all the other items mentioned in previous posts. Swap out to ARP high strength studs. There has to be some reason you are snapping studs, the stock ones are more than adequate for most applications.
In 41 years of car ownership, I've never broken a lug stud.
Look for something preventing the wheel from seating properly such as a rotor retainer clip. I had a lug stud that would continuously break every two months. Same position on same wheel. Turned out there was a burr on the wheel bearing hub that prevented the wheel from seating properly. Even though I torqued the wheels properly the wheel would move some under the loads seen on the track and when I tried to remove the nut it would jam and the stud would eventually break. I hit the burr with a file and the problem went away.
Some shops use an impact wrench, DO NOT LET THEM DO THAT.
Shop torqued mine line crazy that it was hard with a breaker bar!!
I use an impact gun at home all the time to swap tires for the track and I have never broken a wheel stud. We have a race car and we use the impact to put the wheels on and never broke a stud.
I would say it is a spacer issue or something else.
Be sure that the angle of the taper on the lug nut matches the taper of the stud hole in the wheel. My brother once bought a set of chrome swap meet lug nuts that seemed fine. But when he had heavy load in the bed of his pickup they would loosen and snap the studs. This happened twice before we realized the cause of the problem.
I use an impact gun at home all the time to swap tires for the track and I have never broken a wheel stud. We have a race car and we use the impact to put the wheels on and never broke a stud.
I would say it is a spacer issue or something else.
Depends on how much the impact can do. yea if you have torque limit drivers but if not you can seriously drive them on. Thats what happened to me.