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ive heard of different ways like baloons and dows and air? to keep valves up
im installing tq v3 from tsp 7.400 rods and patriot gold 650 lift springs
also do u gotta order that special valve spring tool
thanks
ive heard of different ways like baloons and dows and air? to keep valves up
im installing tq v3 from tsp 7.400 rods and patriot gold 650 lift springs
also do u gotta order that special valve spring tool
thanks
Baloons and dows and air ?? Are you planning on changing the valve springs at the same time, or just a cam swap?
im doing cam and springs at same time
baloon is old school remove sparkplug fill baloon with air so valves dont fall a dow is a rod that slides and holds valves up is what texas speed said
im doing cam and springs at same time
baloon is old school remove sparkplug fill baloon with air so valves dont fall a dow is a rod that slides and holds valves up is what texas speed said
Ahhh....you mean a "balloon" or "dowel rod". You'll need to remove the rockers before pulling the cam anyway, and with the timing cover pulled, it will be easy to use the TDC method for the valve spring change. The dowels are used to keep the lifters up when swapping the cam.
i dont know the tdc method
and how do u mark the gears right i need a book or something i swear
Setting the cylinders to TDC puts the piston at it's highest point in the cylinder, and the valves cannot drop down(only to the top of the piston).
Mark the gears?? The cam gear and crank gear have timing marks on them already. I agree, it sounds like you would be well served with a service manual sir.
lots of good info, a little bad, dont use their method for putting the crank pulley back on or you may from all accounts mess up the threads in the crank.
I'd suggest NOT doing the head on cam change. Sure, it can be done, in fact I've personally have, but when, it was to evaluate a number of different cams with the intent of the engine being tore down at the end of testing. However, for a engine that I plan to run a number of miles pulling the heads just make good sense.
If one of your lifter rollers is marginally damage and you place it on your new cam, guess what happens to your new cam.
Pulling the heads allows you to clean off excessive carbon from the combustion chamber and piston.
I second www.ls1howto.com also... and don't use the stock bolt method to install the pulley definitely chance of damaging the snout, a longer bolt is needed for that.
wether or not you pull your heads is your choice, i did heads at the same time but have done trans am 's without pulling the heads it's difficult to get to all of the bolts, I if there is a problem with the lifter you should see it on the cam you took out, then you need to pull the heads.
dowel? wooden? I wouldn't, a couple of pieces of brake line work just as well, or brass brazing rod, lot cheaper than the $150 tools they try to sell you.
I second www.ls1howto.com also... and don't use the stock bolt method to install the pulley definitely chance of damaging the snout, a longer bolt is needed for that.
wether or not you pull your heads is your choice, i did heads at the same time but have done trans am 's without pulling the heads it's difficult to get to all of the bolts, I if there is a problem with the lifter you should see it on the cam you took out, then you need to pull the heads.
dowel? wooden? I wouldn't, a couple of pieces of brake line work just as well, or brass brazing rod, lot cheaper than the $150 tools they try to sell you.
As I am about to put a new powerbond pulley on (following ls1howto for the install) how should I install the new pulley?
As I am about to put a new powerbond pulley on (following ls1howto for the install) how should I install the new pulley?
Do a search, its one of those "if I had a nickel" for every guy that screwed up his crankshaft using that web site I would get a C7 (when it comes out ).
You need to follow the service manual. I made a tool to do the same thing that the service manual uses from threaded rod, some nuts and washers. Don't use a bolt to pull it on, even a longer one. The service manual ensures full thread engagement before any loading from pressing on the "pulley", which is an interference fit that requires considerable force to get on. Here is the tool I made.
Here is the tool in use.
Here are some relevant pages from the service manual.
This is a Ridgid pipe strap wrench. Bill Curlee posted a pic of this on his motor and I did the same to hold the motor while your trying to get that 250 lbs of torque.
This is a Ridgid pipe strap wrench. Bill Curlee posted a pic of this on his motor and I did the same to hold the motor while your trying to get that 250 lbs of torque.
What size is that pipe strap wrench? You were able to tighten the bolt by yourself?
Someone has my strap wrench so, I cant measure it for you. Its about 18 inches long and YES,,, using it makes torquing that ARP Bolt a true one man job! Ypu will NOT have any problems holding that damper in place!!
I use it to remove the bolt to install the damper and torque the bolt.