Hi, I'm new here and wanted to ask some fellow C5 owners about a problem that has recently started happening to my 99 FRC. The car is a 6 speed has been a garge queen all it's life and has only 9K miles.

It starts fine and idles ok. However, once put into gear it runs for a few seconds then the engine dies, i.e just shuts off. No issues with the clutch or drivetrain. It just dies after a few seconds of putting it in gear (1st or reverse). However it will idle as long as it's not in gear or trying to drive it.

Any ideas? Anyone else had this happen?

I apologize if this has been discussed before but I did a search on "stalling" and couldn't find anything similar.

Thanks in advance!

 

Check the fuel pressure at the rails. There is a schrader valve at the frotn on teh left side.

 

Do you see on the DIC, a message that states something like "Pull Key and Wait 10 seconds"? Pull your codes by using the DIC and post them here. Be sure to include the "H" or "C"s with each code.

 

Yes, the message says "Pull Key and wait 10 seconds". The car is in NJ at present with my daughter and I'm in California. I'm trying to get it shipped here this week and all of a sudden this started happening....which means the shipper can't put it on the transporter.

How can I tell her to get the codes?

So, basically, my 'Vette thinks it's being stolen?

 

Could be the theft system--- 1st thing would be to try the spare key or to clean yours
The key has a OHM pill in it that confirms the car --- the key pill must must match car's pill OHM's--or it will run then die---also check the ignition switch to se if someone spilled some coffee in it or it's dirty

 

I doubt it. Its more likely the famous "Column Lock" issue. PM to 8VETTE7 as he's the expert on this.

 

Take out key let steering lock engage then start up and it should run as usual if your getting pull key message

 

I would also check on a fully charged battery. My 02 A4 started after a jump but would stall when I put it in D or R. Fully charged the battery and fixed the issue. Again it was an auto.

 

Oh, forgot to mention that the column lock was "fixed" by the Chevy dealer about 2 years ago as part of a recall. Is it possible this is still at fault? I'm not sure if it has the "K" harness or what.

Man, this is difficult because the car is 3,000 miles away.

 

I'd see if it had the K-harness installed and remove it.

 

Yes, I'm in full agreement with you 8Vette7. But if I can't get it to run long enough to get it on the transporter, I might have to go the dealer route. Once it's here with me in LA, I can install the fix.

 

When I moved from DC back to Chicago, they could not drive my C3 into the moving truck (design of the truck). They got a flatbed, got the car on the flatbed (they drove it on the flatbed but yours could be winched up), backed it up to the moving van and we rolled it in to the moving truck. Maybe you can do this too?

 

Have your Daughter fully charge the battery and then CLEAR the DTCs. Then retry it.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

How can I disable all this crap? I hate this kind of unnecessary complication.
Oh, and I'm an Electrical Engineer, BTW...LOL!!!

 

You don't, you bypass it for $50 (that's what this electrical engineer did).

 

Daughter did the deed!

40 BCM
B0502_H
B0507_H
B2482_H
B2587_H
B2592_H

58-SCM
B1001_H
U1000_H
U1016_H
U1040_H
U1096_H

RFA
B0605_H
U1255_H
V1096_H
U1064_H
U1016_H
C2120_H

Then..started and tried to drive it and got "SERVICE COLUMN LOCK"

The battery is definitely on the way out, I think. It was replaced already about 2 years ago and the car isn't driven regularly.

 

You really need to make 100% sure the battery is charged fully 1st. Your chasing your tail till then like Bill states above. Follow his lead on this.

 

Listen to 8vette7 he walked me through the same problem with my 99.

 

Ok, 8Vette7, I read the other post regarding the jumper.

So, let me get this straight.......

IF I have the spliced purple wire and NO K harness, I can just jumper the relay base and not reinstall the relay? Or does this require the CLB, as well?

This assumes I can actually get the thing in front of me. Most likely I'll get rooked by the dealer for a new battery and some temporary bandaid, as mentioned before.

 

Yep, certainly will. I'm waiting for him to chime in anytime now :-)