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2003 Zo6 with A@A procharger. The car has run great since installed in 2005. This morning in florida it was 37F and the car ran great for 15minutes and then multiple messages came up, reduced engine power( but the engine still ran great) , the fuel gauge went immediately from half a tank to below empty ( but the engine ran great) and a low voltage message came on ( I just put a new battery 6 months ago) and the ABS light,traction control and check gauges light all came on at the same time. I would turn off the car and all the messages would go away and on restarting the car
it would
happen again 3 minutes later under normal driving conditions. I will post the codes later but there are so many of them ( like 20) and I never had these codes before. Guys, where do I start? Thanks.
I had this problem with my '99 frc. Turned out to be the passenger door wiring harness connector. I unplugged it, spread the prongs a bit, reconnected, and thus far all is good. Think maybe a little corrosion got in there causing all the codes. This spring I will do the drivers side as well, and use dielectric grease on the contacts.
I had this problem with my '99 frc. Turned out to be the passenger door wiring harness connector. I unplugged it, spread the prongs a bit, reconnected, and thus far all is good. Think maybe a little corrosion got in there causing all the codes. This spring I will do the drivers side as well, and use dielectric grease on the contacts.
Patrick
Now that you mention that, the buttons on power windows do not make make any noise and the windows won't budge. I will check the connectors tomorrow.
I had this problem with my '99 frc. Turned out to be the passenger door wiring harness connector. I unplugged it, spread the prongs a bit, reconnected, and thus far all is good. Think maybe a little corrosion got in there causing all the codes. This spring I will do the drivers side as well, and use dielectric grease on the contacts.
Patrick
Same here! It would happen once in awhile And I would wiggle the accordian boot on driver`s door clear, codes and it might be a few months before it happens again. Finally pulled the plugs on driver`s side and pulled them apart . The black one had lots of corrosion inside. Cleaned them both added a bit 0f WD-40, plugged them back in and all is good now going on 6 months! Exact same symptoms You describe! Engine would run normal but guages would go dead and nothing else would work. [AC, radio locks, etc.] Good luck!
Heres your issue.. Look for deformed female pins that look like this in the door wiring harness:
I sprayed WD-40 and put dielectric grease and both driver and passenger connectors and no more codes and car runs great. The driver's window works but the passenger window doesn't come down. You here a click in the passenger door area when hitting the button to move the window but it won't budge. This has happened before and the window will work for 2-3 weeks in a row and then stop working all of a sudden. Anyway, thanks for the help.
I sprayed WD-40 and put dielectric grease and both driver and passenger connectors and no more codes and car runs great. The driver's window works but the passenger window doesn't come down. You here a click in the passenger door area when hitting the button to move the window but it won't budge. This has happened before and the window will work for 2-3 weeks in a row and then stop working all of a sudden. Anyway, thanks for the help.
Next time its working don`t let it go up all the way. Mine did the same thing on & off, Saw a post that said the window would jam the motor when all the way up . So I`ve been just stopping it 1/8th. - 1/16th. inch from top. and its been good for 3 years or more now! PS I had all the stuff replaced in the door under warr. in `04. worked for awhile then started doing it again I could hear the click in the door too, so I knew it was getting power. Good luck.