I received a catch can along with a ported throttle body (no instructions for the throttle body). The installer took exceptions to the supplied instructions for the catch can, claimed they were wrong(reviewing the instrctions does look like some info is missing or doesn't make sense). When finished he checked for vacumn leaks and found none.
Ever since this install my car goes into the "reduced engine power mode" especially when cold under spirited acceleration.

Supplier claims the instructions are correct.

I had my Chevy dealer checked the car (after being towed) and they receive a "throttle body error code" They "reset the battery" cleared the check engine light and said "drive the car for a hunder miles or so the the PCM should adjust". Well it has never adjusted. So far this change has cost me an additional $500.00 in labor charges (400.00) to the tuner, and it's still not right.

Main question, if the catch can was installed improperly, can this result in the "reduced engine power" that the vert goes into.
This doesn't happen every time. May drive for a day and it's OK, the next day it shuts down.

Thank you for reviewing. This has been going on for 6 weeks now.

Don't know what to do next

 

Why not remove the catch can? Or at least re-plumb to stock?
See if the failure goes away.
Personally, I would suspect the ported TB myself.
Ron

 

I agree Reduced Power is a result of the Throttle By Wire not being happy. What does the TB look like and who ported it?

What year C5 and what mods do you have???

Did the person who installed the catch can remove the PCV Valve???????????

What DTCs do you se when you have REP:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Thank you Ron and Bill. Going back to the tuner today and have ordered a new throttle body from BBK. I wil ask him about replumbing. I sent an e-mail to colorado Speed yesterday for better instruction regarding the catch can but have not heard from them as of yet. The supplied instructions are convoluted IMHO. Don't know if the installer remove the PCV valve, will check with him today.

What a mess.

 

Please answer Bill's question about which DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) are showing. He posted instructions on how to pull them from the car'd DIC in his post. We really can't be of much help beyond guessing until we know that.

Also, it would be good to know exactly what the installer did when he put the catch can in since he deviated from the instructions. Pic of the can and routing might be helpful too.

 

Here's how I installed my catch can:

http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/Ins...20Corvette.pdf

 

Hello Everyone, when back to my tuner on Tuesday ($400.00 wasted) and all he wants to do was adjust the fuel trim of which he claimed changed when the hood was closed. He completely ignored my previous request to change the map table to increase for the additional flow. He claimed that it would cause other problem and I think it's beyond his scope since he probably hasn't done many tunes. He suggested that i go back to a original GM throttle body and have the PCM re-flashed and he would try again. (new gm LS1 throttle costs $449.00 discounted)

I could have gone back to my original tuner (he would have increased the table to account for additional flow) but he lives about 50 miles away and didn't want to chance anymore shut downs on the road

Yesterday a local speed shop installed a new BBK 80mm throttle body ($369.00 for the part) and so far so good; no check engine light and no "reduced engine power" mode.

Part of the install calls for a 10 minute "idle" tune" after the install.

Thanx to all of you for you help and concern.

Lesson learned: leave well enough alone!

Peace!

 

Find a new tuner, get a stock LS1 throttle body here for less than half of that. People are going to 90mm or larger all the time when they go to a FAST.