Clutch swap
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: Tampa fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Clutch swap
I am changing my clutch this weekend with a Textralia with a Z06 flywheel and wanted some input on a few things. I have bolts for the clutch to flywheel but did not get new bolts to attach the flywheel, can I use the old bolts? If not what is a reputable brand to get? Also I changed my slave cyl about 6 months ago with a new OEM from the dealer, should I swap for a aftermarket or will the one I have be ok? I have read about slave cyl being replaced and then a few months later failing, so what are some things I can look at when I have it off to indicate time for a new one.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
Even though your slave is only six or so months old, I'd put a spanking brand new one in, along with a new pilot.
I'd get a hold of the manufacturer of your clutch/pressure plate & flywheel to get the correct answer on the proper bolts to use.
Hopefully you have a steel splined adjustment tool for the clutch disc.
I'd get a hold of the manufacturer of your clutch/pressure plate & flywheel to get the correct answer on the proper bolts to use.
Hopefully you have a steel splined adjustment tool for the clutch disc.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
I am changing my clutch this weekend with a Textralia with a Z06 flywheel and wanted some input on a few things. I have bolts for the clutch to flywheel but did not get new bolts to attach the flywheel, can I use the old bolts? If not what is a reputable brand to get? Also I changed my slave cyl about 6 months ago with a new OEM from the dealer, should I swap for a aftermarket or will the one I have be ok? I have read about slave cyl being replaced and then a few months later failing, so what are some things I can look at when I have it off to indicate time for a new one.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...h-install.html
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
I like ARP bolts personally. I would not use the old ones.
May as well do the new slave and pilot bearing given the amount of work involved. OEM slave should be fine. It's the OEM master that is lacking for some applications.
Check your torque tube couplers for wear while you have everything apart and replace them if worn.
You might consider putting a remote bleeder line on your slave so you can bleed the clutch properly from time to time. I used the tick remote bleeder on mine and had no issues.
Did you buy the clutch and flywheel as a kit from a vendor? If so ask them if they were balanced. If not you should have them balanced to avoid issues. See the link in the above post.
Since you're going with an aftermarket unit you should check to make sure the clutch is fully disengaging once you've got everything installed. The stock master cylinder does not displace a sufficient amount of fluid for some (not all) aftermarket clutches to fully disengage so it's worth checking. Park your car on a flat surface and hold the clutch and the brake pedal down. Bring your engine up to 2500 rpms and release the brake pedal but leave the clutch pedal all the way in. If the car moves forward at all your clutch is not fully disengaging.
May as well do the new slave and pilot bearing given the amount of work involved. OEM slave should be fine. It's the OEM master that is lacking for some applications.
Check your torque tube couplers for wear while you have everything apart and replace them if worn.
You might consider putting a remote bleeder line on your slave so you can bleed the clutch properly from time to time. I used the tick remote bleeder on mine and had no issues.
Did you buy the clutch and flywheel as a kit from a vendor? If so ask them if they were balanced. If not you should have them balanced to avoid issues. See the link in the above post.
Since you're going with an aftermarket unit you should check to make sure the clutch is fully disengaging once you've got everything installed. The stock master cylinder does not displace a sufficient amount of fluid for some (not all) aftermarket clutches to fully disengage so it's worth checking. Park your car on a flat surface and hold the clutch and the brake pedal down. Bring your engine up to 2500 rpms and release the brake pedal but leave the clutch pedal all the way in. If the car moves forward at all your clutch is not fully disengaging.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: Tampa fl
St. Jude Donor '14
I like ARP bolts personally. I would not use the old ones.
May as well do the new slave and pilot bearing given the amount of work involved. OEM slave should be fine. It's the OEM master that is lacking for some applications.
Check your torque tube couplers for wear while you have everything apart and replace them if worn.
You might consider putting a remote bleeder line on your slave so you can bleed the clutch properly from time to time. I used the tick remote bleeder on mine and had no issues.
Did you buy the clutch and flywheel as a kit from a vendor? If so ask them if they were balanced. If not you should have them balanced to avoid issues. See the link in the above post.
Since you're going with an aftermarket unit you should check to make sure the clutch is fully disengaging once you've got everything installed. The stock master cylinder does not displace a sufficient amount of fluid for some (not all) aftermarket clutches to fully disengage so it's worth checking. Park your car on a flat surface and hold the clutch and the brake pedal down. Bring your engine up to 2500 rpms and release the brake pedal but leave the clutch pedal all the way in. If the car moves forward at all your clutch is not fully disengaging.
May as well do the new slave and pilot bearing given the amount of work involved. OEM slave should be fine. It's the OEM master that is lacking for some applications.
Check your torque tube couplers for wear while you have everything apart and replace them if worn.
You might consider putting a remote bleeder line on your slave so you can bleed the clutch properly from time to time. I used the tick remote bleeder on mine and had no issues.
Did you buy the clutch and flywheel as a kit from a vendor? If so ask them if they were balanced. If not you should have them balanced to avoid issues. See the link in the above post.
Since you're going with an aftermarket unit you should check to make sure the clutch is fully disengaging once you've got everything installed. The stock master cylinder does not displace a sufficient amount of fluid for some (not all) aftermarket clutches to fully disengage so it's worth checking. Park your car on a flat surface and hold the clutch and the brake pedal down. Bring your engine up to 2500 rpms and release the brake pedal but leave the clutch pedal all the way in. If the car moves forward at all your clutch is not fully disengaging.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,458
Likes: 1,165
From: Dyer, IN
Why? The service manual does not call for replacement. ARP bolts can interfere with some pressure plates, so they are not a good suggestion for all. There is nothing wrong with reusing the factory flywheel bolts, provided you use loctite.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I reused mine without any issues. Here are some LESSONS LEARNED that I hope you heed. I just did all this successfully. I spent too many hours reading post after post after post trying to sort the truth from the wives tails.
Some facts:
IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you do NOT have drive train vibrations NOW with your current set up,,,,, have your new fly wheel MATCHED BALANCED to the old one!!!
REPLACE THE PILOT BRG!!!!
Highly recommend installing a remote bleeder!!!
IMPORTANT!!!!
Spend extra the couple hours that it takes and take the critical SLAVE CYLINDER/THROWOUT BEARING to PRESSURE PLATE clearance measurements to determine if you need a shim or not to acheive the correct clutch release clearances!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Read and implement the extra cooling mods that this post discusses:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...post1581134673
Hope this helps!
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
As to not reusing the factory ones; I've always looked at new bolts as CHEAP insurance. I'd rather spend a few $ on new bolts for a job this involved than take even a .00001% chance that the flywheel could turn itself into a rudimentary circular saw at 6K RPMs. I also thought I read in the service manual during my last clutch job that new flywheel bolts were called for but evidently I am mistaken.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: Tampa fl
St. Jude Donor '14
I reused mine without any issues. Here are some LESSONS LEARNED that I hope you heed. I just did all this successfully. I spent too many hours reading post after post after post trying to sort the truth from the wives tails.
Some facts:
IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you do NOT have drive train vibrations NOW with your current set up,,,,, have your new fly wheel MATCHED BALANCED to the old one!!!
REPLACE THE PILOT BRG!!!!
Highly recommend installing a remote bleeder!!!
IMPORTANT!!!!
Spend extra the couple hours that it takes and take the critical SLAVE CYLINDER/THROWOUT BEARING to PRESSURE PLATE clearance measurements to determine if you need a shim or not to acheive the correct clutch release clearances!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Read and implement the extra cooling mods that this post discusses:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...post1581134673
Hope this helps!
BC
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
c5vette211, You mentioned you have a Tick M/C installed. 
If you go to their site, you will see where they sell a shim package.
They have a diagram of proper spacing of the slave to p/plate measurements.
It shows the distances to determain which size shim you may need (if any).
Hope this may help.
It wouldn't hurt to have them already ordered & in your possession prior to the install.
If you go to their site, you will see where they sell a shim package.
They have a diagram of proper spacing of the slave to p/plate measurements.
It shows the distances to determain which size shim you may need (if any).
Hope this may help.
It wouldn't hurt to have them already ordered & in your possession prior to the install.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: Tampa fl
St. Jude Donor '14
c5vette211, You mentioned you have a Tick M/C installed.
If you go to their site, you will see where they sell a shim package.
They have a diagram of proper spacing of the slave to p/plate measurements.
It shows the distances to determain which size shim you may need (if any).
Hope this may help.
It wouldn't hurt to have them already ordered & in your possession prior to the install.
If you go to their site, you will see where they sell a shim package.
They have a diagram of proper spacing of the slave to p/plate measurements.
It shows the distances to determain which size shim you may need (if any).
Hope this may help.
It wouldn't hurt to have them already ordered & in your possession prior to the install.
I will not be doing the install this weekend after my balancing road block I have hit. 
I am trying to figure out now how to deal with my situation. I have found a shop that will balance my new flywheel with the new clutch, but I read if my current flywheel is weighted then I need the new flywheel matched to the old but the shop I found will not match the old to the new just the new flywheel to the clutch. How can I determine if my old clutch is weighted without tearing too far into the car?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
Nice THANKS!!! I will not be doing the install this weekend after my balancing road block I have hit. I am trying to figure out now how to deal with my situation. I have found a shop that will balance my new flywheel with the new clutch, but I read if my current flywheel is weighted then I need the new flywheel matched to the old but the shop I found will not match the old to the new just the new flywheel to the clutch. How can I determine if my old clutch is weighted without tearing too far into the car?
I will not be doing the install this weekend after my balancing road block I have hit. I am trying to figure out now how to deal with my situation. I have found a shop that will balance my new flywheel with the new clutch, but I read if my current flywheel is weighted then I need the new flywheel matched to the old but the shop I found will not match the old to the new just the new flywheel to the clutch. How can I determine if my old clutch is weighted without tearing too far into the car?
I didn't have any weights on my flywheel (and chances are you don't either) so I don't know from experience but I think you could just have the new clutch and flywheel balanced together then just transfer the weights from the old flywheel to the new.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: Tampa fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Gotta take a look; there's no other way to know.
I didn't have any weights on my flywheel (and chances are you don't either) so I don't know from experience but I think you could just have the new clutch and flywheel balanced together then just transfer the weights from the old flywheel to the new.
I didn't have any weights on my flywheel (and chances are you don't either) so I don't know from experience but I think you could just have the new clutch and flywheel balanced together then just transfer the weights from the old flywheel to the new.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: Tampa fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Honestly it's because I've always had good experience with ARP fasteners. Don't have a mechanical engineering degree to back it up though
As to not reusing the factory ones; I've always looked at new bolts as CHEAP insurance. I'd rather spend a few $ on new bolts for a job this involved than take even a .00001% chance that the flywheel could turn itself into a rudimentary circular saw at 6K RPMs. I also thought I read in the service manual during my last clutch job that new flywheel bolts were called for but evidently I am mistaken.
As to not reusing the factory ones; I've always looked at new bolts as CHEAP insurance. I'd rather spend a few $ on new bolts for a job this involved than take even a .00001% chance that the flywheel could turn itself into a rudimentary circular saw at 6K RPMs. I also thought I read in the service manual during my last clutch job that new flywheel bolts were called for but evidently I am mistaken.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,458
Likes: 1,165
From: Dyer, IN
Honestly it's because I've always had good experience with ARP fasteners. Don't have a mechanical engineering degree to back it up though
As to not reusing the factory ones; I've always looked at new bolts as CHEAP insurance. I'd rather spend a few $ on new bolts for a job this involved than take even a .00001% chance that the flywheel could turn itself into a rudimentary circular saw at 6K RPMs. I also thought I read in the service manual during my last clutch job that new flywheel bolts were called for but evidently I am mistaken.
As to not reusing the factory ones; I've always looked at new bolts as CHEAP insurance. I'd rather spend a few $ on new bolts for a job this involved than take even a .00001% chance that the flywheel could turn itself into a rudimentary circular saw at 6K RPMs. I also thought I read in the service manual during my last clutch job that new flywheel bolts were called for but evidently I am mistaken.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
Corvette Cowboy
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,852
Likes: 23
From: Cen-Cal Broke A$$ Kalifornia
Hello OP everything Bill said I would do, I just did mine and I had issues with my pilot shaft make sure it is in good shape and not worn out. The dim. for the end of the shaft is .591 +.000 - .01 if it is smaller or worn I would get it fixed I can do it for you for a cost here is a link to my thread of how I fixed it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...be-help-2.html
if have any questions feel free to contact me also is your shaft in the T.T. Bent have it check also
Dale
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...be-help-2.html
if have any questions feel free to contact me also is your shaft in the T.T. Bent have it check also
Dale
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: Tampa fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Hello OP everything Bill said I would do, I just did mine and I had issues with my pilot shaft make sure it is in good shape and not worn out. The dim. for the end of the shaft is .591 +.000 - .01 if it is smaller or worn I would get it fixed I can do it for you for a cost here is a link to my thread of how I fixed it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...be-help-2.html
if have any questions feel free to contact me also is your shaft in the T.T. Bent have it check also
Dale
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...be-help-2.html
if have any questions feel free to contact me also is your shaft in the T.T. Bent have it check also
Dale