When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: If your not the lead dog the view never changes Boise, Id
Air filter placement question
I have a rams horn air cleaner with two k&n filters on it. I am thinking about cutting the radiator shroud it sits on so the bottom half of the filters are being fed from the bottom. Will this help them collect more air or will the difference in air pressure top to bottom actually hurt performance?
Your best bet is to open up your foglight shrouds (similar to the Z06). I have the Volant twin cone air intake. I performed this mod on mine and added some Z06 wire mesh screens to keep debris out. I then went for a drive and I used a live data scanner to monitor my intake air temperature. The IAT remained close to ambient outside temperature. Proof it works perfectly and you get the Z06 front end look as a bonus.
Your best bet is to open up your foglight shrouds (similar to the Z06). I have the Volant twin cone air intake. I performed this mod on mine and added some Z06 wire mesh screens to keep debris out. I then went for a drive and I used a live data scanner to monitor my intake air temperature. The IAT remained close to ambient outside temperature. Proof it works perfectly and you get the Z06 front end look as a bonus.
I cut the foglight shrouds. Or you can just take the shrouds out.
It does work.
From: If your not the lead dog the view never changes Boise, Id
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
NO! All your going to be able to do with that set up is get clean "COOLER" fresh air which is more important for your set up.
Unless you put a BOX over the filters and use a SCOOP to direct the air into the box, NO GAIN is to be observed.
BC
So by cutting the shroud the filters sit on so the bottom half of the filter is in the cavity that air gets to the radiator will get me more cool air? Not a ram air effect but will it be beneficial?
So by cutting the shroud the filters sit on so the bottom half of the filter is in the cavity that air gets to the radiator will get me more cool air? Not a ram air effect but will it be beneficial?
I use a K&N intake and I cut out the shroud... The whole bottom half sits down where there is fresh cool air. The only down side is that the filter can collect more dirt in a faster time. But that's what cleaning kits are for right?
You might consider a front hood seal. It apparently decreases air turbulence under the hood and aids air flow to your filters. It also helps with keeping engine bay clean by keeping dirt/debris from entering through the front edge of the hood.
From: If your not the lead dog the view never changes Boise, Id
Originally Posted by NukeC5
I use a K&N intake and I cut out the shroud... The whole bottom half sits down where there is fresh cool air. The only down side is that the filter can collect more dirt in a faster time. But that's what cleaning kits are for right?
I measured a significant drop in air intake temperature, before and after this mod. I don't have the fog light covers cored out because I didn't want screens to cover my fog lights. Fortunately, my intake mod prevents HP loss by constantly (while car is in motion) supplying outside air to the intake. The added benefit is a significant drop in engine bay temp, which prolongs the life of drive belts, hoses, circuits, and plastic components. (something the flip-tie mod doesn't do if your fog light covers aren't cored out or removed completely.)
The most important thing when fabricating a cold air intake is to always try to loctae the MAF in the same position as it was in STOCK trim-Don't move it closer or further away from the throttle body if at all possible--When moving the MAF it will read the incoming air differently than it was callibrated from the factory--Not the end of the world if you have your own tuner or plan on getting it re-tuned---
Same goes with removing the screen --dont remove it unless you are prepared for a re-tune--Besides the STOCK MAF is plenty capable of 500 HP or better --screen and all--
Moving the MAF locaton will create idle issues--- hunting and surging-- Dying issues when lifting--Starting problems--and finally if your fuel trims go positive ( most likely) at P/T --then that positive trim willbe added to your WOT fuel as well as a safety and your eng will get lazy and pig rich at WOT or power enrichment
From: If your not the lead dog the view never changes Boise, Id
Originally Posted by tblu92
The most important thing when fabricating a cold air intake is to always try to loctae the MAF in the same position as it was in STOCK trim-Don't move it closer or further away from the throttle body if at all possible--When moving the MAF it will read the incoming air differently than it was callibrated from the factory--Not the end of the world if you have your own tuner or plan on getting it re-tuned---
Same goes with removing the screen --dont remove it unless you are prepared for a re-tune--Besides the STOCK MAF is plenty capable of 500 HP or better --screen and all--
Moving the MAF locaton will create idle issues--- hunting and surging-- Dying issues when lifting--Starting problems--and finally if your fuel trims go positive ( most likely) at P/T --then that positive trim willbe added to your WOT fuel as well as a safety and your eng will get lazy and pig rich at WOT or power enrichment
Good to know. I was not planning on moving the maf just sinking the two air filters and putting in a screen.
The most important thing when fabricating a cold air intake is to always try to loctae the MAF in the same position as it was in STOCK trim-Don't move it closer or further away from the throttle body if at all possible--When moving the MAF it will read the incoming air differently than it was callibrated from the factory--Not the end of the world if you have your own tuner or plan on getting it re-tuned---
Same goes with removing the screen --dont remove it unless you are prepared for a re-tune--Besides the STOCK MAF is plenty capable of 500 HP or better --screen and all--
Moving the MAF locaton will create idle issues--- hunting and surging-- Dying issues when lifting--Starting problems--and finally if your fuel trims go positive ( most likely) at P/T --then that positive trim willbe added to your WOT fuel as well as a safety and your eng will get lazy and pig rich at WOT or power enrichment
All this can be fixed with tuning though right? The Varraram air bridge purposefully moves the MAF towards the throttle. Once tuned, I'm sure it works perfectly fine.
Yes can be fixed with tuning to correct idle/surging issues--however there is NO HP advantage---I have seen installations on Siverado's where someone has mounted the MAF right onto the T-body !! Again no advantage here--other than freeing up some space
But you create a ton of turbulence when the throttle is opened only slightly as the air has to make aburbt turns to pass over the bottom and the top of the blade--
Yes can be fixed with tuning to correct idle/surging issues--however there is NO HP advantage---I have seen installations on Siverado's where someone has mounted the MAF right onto the T-body !! Again no advantage here--other than freeing up some space
But you create a ton of turbulence when the throttle is opened only slightly as the air has to make aburbt turns to pass over the bottom and the top of the blade--
The main advantage of moving the MAF closer to the throttle body may be reducing the likelyhood of oil from an aftermarket filter contaminating the MAF heated wire element. That being said, I must also mention that I've been oiling my Halltech filter for many years and have never had a drivability problem. I guess I don't over-oil the filter.