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...to clean all the contacts real well in hopes that I will get lucky and that's all it needs anyway i drove it a little, cleaned the contacts, and plugged it back in. will it need to "re-learn" anything or will it just throw the same codes right away ?
No relearning necessary. Did you clear the codes before unplugging it? I don't know if you've listed the codes you're getting already or not, but it may help the gurus here if they know the year, manual or auto, and codes it's throwing.
Ah the dreaded C1214. Hopefully you have a later model C5. You'll most likely be removing the module and send it out to ABSFIXER.com. They will take care of you.
Another thing to do is cut the ground wires and solder them together. Can cause problems with the ECBM, as well as an array of other things. When I did it:
Lucky you. Reheating cold solder joints is so simple! Worst case scenario for yours is a new relay.
Mine never threw the 1214 code, but now the code says "NO COMM" so I may have no choice but to replace the whole unit.
NO COMM = First thing to do is check for proper power and ground to and from the module and actually MEASURE the voltages on the fuses that supply the power to the module
Give that a shot and see what you get. If the module is not powering up, it will be reported as NO COMM.
The no-ground code is 1242. That's what was ******* me before I unplugged and plugged the EBCM connectors a few times to fix that issue. Cleaning the chassis grounds at the other end did nothing.
The no-ground code is 1242. That's what was ******* me before I unplugged and plugged the EBCM connectors a few times to fix that issue. Cleaning the chassis grounds at the other end did nothing.
Dave
Did you try to read the FEMALE ground pin G & F inside the EBTCM Connector to chassis ground? It should read ZERO ohms to chassis ground:
The ground for power will be PIN "G" and PIN "F"
Check those female pins and make sure that they are not deformed and they make solid contact with the male pin on the module.
;
Also check POWER pins A & B for good contact
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Sep 19, 2012 at 07:11 PM.
How often do these modules go bad? I am thinking about getting a 99 and was told you can't repair them.
How hard are they to find new or used??
In my opinion if you are buying a pre 01 you need to save 1k to 2k of your funds for a module and start looking as soon as you buy the car. Seems like its not "if" its "when". Of course you can always drive without ABS and traction control....
Ah the dreaded C1214. Hopefully you have a later model C5. You'll most likely be removing the module and send it out to ABSFIXER.com. They will take care of you.
I have the C1214 code also..I will be sending in the EBCM in the next few weeks...It is kinda fun though burnning some rubber going into second once in a while without pushing a button.
In my opinion if you are buying a pre 01 you need to save 1k to 2k of your funds for a module and start looking as soon as you buy the car. Seems like its not "if" its "when". Of course you can always drive without ABS and traction control....
Really?
That's not want I wanted to hear. Between this and the CLB you could go broke keeping one of these old C5's on the road. $1-2000 is used also correct?
Do the search here. I think 2k would be the highest you would pay for the unit AND someone to install it. Maybe as cheap as 700 if you get lucky finding one cheap and install yourself. I am no expert on it but it seems common enough that you can't ignore the chance it will happen during ownership. It's one of the main reasons I bought an 03 for a few grand more.
I have the C1214 code also..I will be sending in the EBCM in the next few weeks...It is kinda fun though burnning some rubber going into second once in a while without pushing a button.
I highly recommend trying to fix it yourself. Once you get the unit open (which admittedly, was the hard part and most time-consuming), all you have to do is check the solder joints and touch them up if they're broken. Took about 15 minutes.
I highly recommend trying to fix it yourself. Once you get the unit open (which admittedly, was the hard part and most time-consuming), all you have to do is check the solder joints and touch them up if they're broken. Took about 15 minutes.
...the C1214 causes the loss of all the systems that require control of brake line pressure. You have lost ABS, Traction Control, and Active Handling. You have also lost Dynamic Rear Proportioning and Rear Stability Control if your car is a 2001 or newer, though you won't see warning messages for those systems.