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Can someone tell me if the pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel? If it is and you replace the flywheel, would changing the pilot bearing be a simple job not requiring a pilot bearing puller?
I have a leaky slave cylinder on a '02Z with 12k miles, (Clutch stick to the floor at times) I've hopefully accumulated all the neccessary parts for an entire clutch job, wouldn't want to do this twice.
1. Clutch assembly, (pressure plate/disc/flywheel)
2. Slave cylinder assembly complete with throwout/release bearing
3. Pilot bearing
I think i will ignor the master cylinder for now, it's a fairly simple job to replace later if needed.
yes it is a press (interference) fit. Getting the old one out is harder than getting the new one in.
Yes, you are missing a remote bleeder.
Replace the master at the same time. It will have the cruds as does the slave. You will still have to remove parts to replace the master and you will have them off at clutch install.
Thanks for your suggestions, I was thinking of the remote bleeder but may become a source of a potential leak or problems or so I held off. I think I will hold off on the master cylinder as the fluid is clear at all times using the ranger method every month or less. Car is not tracked, but bought the clutch assembly just in case it became contaminated with brake fluid. Maybe this is a case where the lack of use (12K) caused the slave seals to harden.
If you replace the flywheel, make sure that you mark the relation of the crank to the old flywheel and transfer ANY off set balance weights that are in the old fly wheel and transfer them to the new one. Put the flywheel back in the same position.
The pilot bearing can be a PITA to get out & reinstall without damaging it. I used a torch to heat up the end of the crank (about 200 deg ) and the slide hammer popped it out easily. Heated the crank and freeze the bearing for easy reinstall.
NOTE! The end of the crank has a welsh plug in it that separates PRESSURIZED OIL from ATMOSPHERE. DO NOT damage it!!!
Are you POSITIVE that the slave is leaking? Ive see the bleed screw leak cause it wasn't tight.
I think the problems with remote bleeders are overblown. It's a screw with a gasket. Jezz.
The benefits far outweigh any downside. I can't think of any downside....
I think the problems with remote bleeders are overblown. It's a screw with a gasket. Jezz.
The benefits far outweigh any downside. I can't think of any downside....
Tell that to the folks that have had bleeder issues.
It is not needed and only adds to the chances of having issues. GM doesn't install them for good reason. The guys who work on them in GM and GM racing don't use them. But if you feel the need go for it, it's your car.
If you replace the flywheel, make sure that you mark the relation of the crank to the old flywheel and transfer ANY off set balance weights that are in the old fly wheel and transfer them to the new one. Put the flywheel back in the same position.
The pilot bearing can be a PITA to get out & reinstall without damaging it. I used a torch to heat up the end of the crank (about 200 deg ) and the slide hammer popped it out easily. Heated the crank and freeze the bearing for easy reinstall.
NOTE! The end of the crank has a welsh plug in it that separates PRESSURIZED OIL from ATMOSPHERE. DO NOT damage it!!!
Are you POSITIVE that the slave is leaking? Ive see the bleed screw leak cause it wasn't tight.
BC
Thanks Bill, I'll print that out for the Dealership tech (I hope he doesn't take offense to it)
Can't say for sure where the leak is coming from but it's wet at the bell housing and the master is definitly low at times. The dealership will have it all apart so I will have all the parts in case it has to be replaced. They are an established Chevy/Caddy/Corvette Dealership in Langley B.C. so hopefully I can trust them to do a good job.
If you replace the flywheel, make sure that you mark the relation of the crank to the old flywheel and transfer ANY off set balance weights that are in the old fly wheel and transfer them to the new one. Put the flywheel back in the same position.
The pilot bearing can be a PITA to get out & reinstall without damaging it. I used a torch to heat up the end of the crank (about 200 deg ) and the slide hammer popped it out easily. Heated the crank and freeze the bearing for easy reinstall.
NOTE! The end of the crank has a welsh plug in it that separates PRESSURIZED OIL from ATMOSPHERE. DO NOT damage it!!!
Are you POSITIVE that the slave is leaking? Ive see the bleed screw leak cause it wasn't tight.
BC
One other thing, the GM OE part # for the clutch assembly is 12570806( Disc, pressure plate, flywheel) the box containing the clutch assembly shows that exact # with Genuine GM part on it, however the stamping on the pressure plate shows #12579807 off 1 last digit. The Dealership says that the # ending in 7 was the old part # and that they are in fact identical, does that sound right?
This may sound stupid but,,,, Make SURE that you discuss the flywheel balance procedure with them. If you have ZERO VIBRATIONS in the drive train now,, you should have zero when they are done.
Trust me,, Not all GM Tech know corvette and corvette is DIFFERENT than most of the cars that they work on every day.
He may be well versed but then again, Ive seen thing go south at several GM dealerships...
The off set balance weights can become a big deal if the flywheel isn't referenced marked to the crank and the weights are not transfered to the exact same spot on the fly wheel and the new fly wheel isn't put back in the same spot. Hell, you may not even have any to worry about but,, at least you will know to inspect and see if there there.
Bill, it's not stupid. If it's not done and there is a vibration it's too late to go back and do those simple steps. I would think you either have to randomly try the weights in different holes until the vibration is better or pull the engine apart and re-balance it.