When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
DUH!!! Just pull and post your codes and save $189.00.
Duh yourself. I never said I was going to the dealer. They offered to decifer the codes for nothing but added that their diagnosis was a two hour job, much more involving. I'll be impressed if the codes tell me what is causing the problem. The idea of a faulty solenoid deserves research.
Thanks for the video, Bill. Don't the codes mean something is wrong so how can you just delete them? Is it really possible that there is a code that occassionally prevents the key from making contact with the solenoid? I'm going to be near a dealer and will pick their brain about this problem. They must have experience with this problem.
Codes accumulate. When you have 30 different history codes that may have happened months ago still present,,,, It makes troubleshooting very confusing. Clear them!!!
Trust me. If there is an issue,, the correct DTCs will show back up. They will be the ones that you need to concentrate on.
I was in the Army, I have a strong stomach. Water conducts electricity and can help make a connection if it's dirty.
Seriously, it's not clicking the solenoid. It doesn't make sense unless the new switch is junk which wouldn't surprise me. My mechanic ignores my suggestion that it could be corrosion at the solenoid connection. I'm prone to believe it's the switch again.[/QUOTE
If you have WATER or even moisture on the Ignition Switch contacts,, MAN THE LIFE BOATS!
Remove the switch and conduct a resistance check on it. If it fails,, disassemble it and figure out what the exact is wrong and FIX IT.
BC
I've had small problems in the past when I've allowed the key to get a little water on it. Engine would start, but after moving a couple feet in 1st, would immediately shut down. DIC message would say "PULL KEY - WAIT 10 SECONDS." Sometimes "SERVICE COLUMN LOCK." The CLB had been installed many years before. Hope this helps. Keep your key completely free of water.
Codes accumulate. When you have 30 different history codes that may have happened months ago still present,,,, It makes troubleshooting very confusing. Clear them!!!
Trust me. If there is an issue,, the correct DTCs will show back up. They will be the ones that you need to concentrate on.
The dealer told me the same thing about the codes. I'm taking it in for a new starter and solenoid.
The dealer told me the same thing about the codes. I'm taking it in for a new starter and solenoid.
Nice thing about the dealer..they are always willing to change whatever parts you tell them to.........even if it's not the problem. Even if you have a lock cylinder issue, they'll change the starter, and you absorb the responsibility.
Nice thing about the dealer..they are always willing to change whatever parts you tell them to.........even if it's not the problem. Even if you have a lock cylinder issue, they'll change the starter, and you absorb the responsibility.
I know that, I was a dealer. My mechanic has been saying all along to change the starter. I didn't want to change a good starter. If he would have mentioned it's the solenoid to begin with and it's a smart idea to change the starter at the same time, with 60K miles, I would have done it long ago.
Consider this thread closed. Thank everyone for their assistance.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Did this thread really make it to 35 posts and he still won't delete those damn codes? Is he saving them cause he's afraid they might not ever come back?
Originally Posted by lucky131969
So. If you are not willing to post your codes, what is it that you seek from this forum?
Have the starter/solenoid checked. I screwed with the ignition switch, clutch switch, etc. (took them apart, cleaned contacts, bent contact arms, etc.) before finally coming to the conclusion that the starter was fried.
Ahhh...I see. That makes sense now, how you would rather change parts...than troubleshoot.
Nah, ya got it all wrong. I was a used car wholesaler, we didn't buy new parts but that ended with the '80s before computer cars. The research is done without codes which are probably very old. I will clean them.
Have the starter/solenoid checked. I screwed with the ignition switch, clutch switch, etc. (took them apart, cleaned contacts, bent contact arms, etc.) before finally coming to the conclusion that the starter was fried.
I can hear a bad starter. Surprised it was missed to begin with.
Did this thread really make it to 35 posts and he still won't delete those damn codes? Is he saving them cause he's afraid they might not ever come back?
Companionship! Camaraderie!
The codes won't do much good if the car is working ok. Mine was intermittent and that was confirmed by several people if you read the posts the culprit is the solenoid.